gle. It is eafie enough to conceive how they might become fix'd, tho' they once floated; and it is not very credible, that the Naturalift could be deceiv'd in his Account of a Place that lay, as it were, in the Neighbourhood of Rome. At one End of this Lake stands Montefiafcone, the Habitation of Virgil's Equi Falifci. Æn. 7. and on the Side of it the Town of the Volfinians, now call'd Bolfena.

Aut pofitis nemorofa inter juga Volfiniis.

Volfinium ftood

Juv. Sat. 3.

Cover'd with Mountains, and enclos'd with Wood.

I faw in the Church-yard of Bolfena an antique Funeral Monument (of that kind which they call'da Sarcophagus) very entire, and what is particular, Engraven on all Sides with a curious Reprefentation of a Bacchanal. Had the Inhabitants obferv'd a couple of lewd Figures at one End of it, they would not have thought it a proper Ornament for the Place where it now ftands. After having travell'd hence to Aquapendente, that ftands in a wonderful pleafant Situation, we came to the little Brook that feparates the Pope's Dominions from the Great Duke's. The Frontier Caftle of Radicofani is feated on the higheft Mountain

in

in the Country, and is as well fortify'd as the Situation of the Place will permit. We here found the natural Face of the Country quite chang'd from what we had been entertain'd with in the Pope's Dominions. For instead of the many beautiful Scenes of green Mountains and fruitful Vallies, that we had been prefented with for fome Days before we faw now nothing but a wild naked Profpect of Rocks and Hills, worn on all Sides with Gutters and Channels, and not a Tree or Shrub to be met with in a vaft Circuit of Several Miles. This Savage Prospect put me in Mind of the Italian Proverb, that The Pope has the Flesh, and the Great Duke the Bones of Italy. Among a large Extent of thefe Barren Mountains I faw but a fingle Spot that was cultivated, on which there stood a Convent.

SI E N N 4,

S

LEGHORNE,

PISA.

IENNA stands high, and is adorn'd with a great many Towers of Brick, that in the Time of the Common-wealth were erected to fuch of the Members as had done any confiderable Service to their Country. Thefe Towers gave us a fight of the Town a great while before we enter'd it. There is nothing in this City fo extraordinary as the Cathedral, which a Man may view with Pleasure after he has feen St. Peters, tho' 'tis quite of another Make, and can only be look'd upon as one of the Masterpieces of Gothic Architecture. When a Man fees the prodigious Pains and Expence, that our Fore-fathers have been at in thefe barbarous Buildings, one can't but fancy to himself what Miracles of Architecture they would have left us, had they only been inftructed in the right way; for when the Devotion of thofe Ages was

much

much warmer than it is at prefent, and the Riches of the People much more at the Difpofal of the Priests, there was fo much Mony confum'd on thefe Gothic Cathedrals, as would have finish'd a greater Variety of Noble Buildings, than have been rais'd ei- ther before or fince that Time.

One would wonder to fee the vaft Labour that has been laid out on this single Cathedral. The very Spouts are loaden with Ornaments, the Windows are form'd like fo many Scenes of Perspective, with a Multitude of little Pillars retiring one behind another, the great Columns are finely engraven with Fruits and Foliage that run twifting about 'em from the very Top to the Bottom, the whole Body of the Church is chequer'd with different Lays of White and Black Marble, the Pavement curioufly cut out in Defigns and Scripture-Stories, and the Front cover'd with fuch a Variety of Figures, and over-run with fo many little Mazes and Labyrinths of Sculpture, that nothing in the World can make a prettier Show to thofe that prefer falfe Beauties, and affected Ornaments, to a Noble and Majeftick Simplicity. Overagainst this Church ftands a large Hospital, erected by a Shooe-Maker that has been Beatify'd, tho' never Sainted. There ftands a Figure of him fuperfcrib'd, Sutor ultra Crepidam. I fhall fpeak nothing of the Extent of this City, the Cleanliness of its Streets, nor the Beauty of its Piazza, which Kk 2

fo

fo many Travellers have defcrib'd. As this is the laft Republick that fell under the Subjection of the Duke of Florence, fo is it ftill fuppos'd to retain many Hankerings after its ancient Liberty: For this Reafon, when the Keys and Pageants of the Duke's Towns and Governments pass in Proceffion before him, on St. John Baptift's Day, I was told that Sienna comes in the Rear of his Dominions, and is pufh'd forward by thofe that follow, to fhow the Reluctancy it has to appear in fuch a Solemnity. I fhall fay nothing of the many grofs and abfurd Traditions of St. Catherine of Sienna, who is the great Saint of this Place. I think there is as much Pleasure in hearing a Man tell his Dreams, as in reading Accounts of this Nature: A Traveller, that thinks 'em worth his Obfervation, may fill a Book with 'em at every great Town in Italy.

From Sienna we went forward to Legborne, where the Two Ports, the Bagnio, and Donatelli's Statue of the Great Duke, amidft the Four Slaves chain'd to his Pedeftal, are very noble Sights. The Square is one of the largest, and will be one of the beautifulleft in Italy, when this Statue is erected in it, and a Town-house built at one End of it to front the Church that ftands at the other. They are at a continual Expence to cleanse the Ports, and keep 'em from being choak'd up, which they do by the help of feveral Engines that are always

at