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All the inhabitants, when I entered it, were under arms, in great apprehenfions of a vifit from the Duke of Bavaria; and, being advised not to venture ourselves in the dominions of this prince, we had the mortification of being deprived of the opportunity of feeing Munich, Aufburg, and Ratifbon; and were forced to proceed to Vienna, through Tirol, where we had little to entertain us, except the picturesque views of the country.

Having coafted the Alps for fome time, we at laft entered them by a paffage that leads into the long valley of the Tirol; and then, following the course of the river Inn, arrived at Infpruck the capital of the country.

Infpruck, though not very large, is a handfome city, and was once the refidence of the archdukes, who were counts of Tirol. The great hall of the palace is a very noble room; the walls are painted in fresco, and represent the labours of Hercules, many of which are well executed, though the fiffures, occafioned by earthquakes, have, in fome measure, injured the whole. In another room of this palace, they fhew the portraits of feveral illuftrious perfons, and, among the reft, that of Mary Queen of Scots, equally eminent for her beauty and her misfortunes.

The gardens are very large; but in bad condition. In the centre of them is a beautiful equeftrian ftatue, of the Archduke Leopold, and near it twelve figures of water nymphs and river gods, as large as the life.

Covered galleries lead from this palace to five different churches, and I paffed through a very long one to the Capuchin convent, where the

duke

Duke of Lorrain ufed frequently to affift at their midnight devotions.

In this convent I was fhewn the apartments of the Archduke Maximilian, who, at the time that he performed the functions of government; lived with all the aufterity of a capuchin. His room of audience and antichamber are little fquare wainscotted rooms, faced with a kind of fretwork.

The church belonging to the Franciscan convent, contains the monument of the emperor Maximilian, but his body is not buried here. On the top of this monument is the effigy of the emperor in brafs, in a kneeling posture; and on its fides a beautiful bafs relief, in twenty-four compartments, reprefenting the principal actions of this prince. On each fide of the monument, is a row of very noble colloffal ftatues, in brass, of fuch perfons as were any way related to the

emperor.

This church was erected by Ferdinand I. and is an attempt at modern architecture; but the ornaments are rather fplendid than chafte, and the charming fimplicity, obferved by the Greeks and Romans, has been little attended to. In fhort, this fabric is neither ancient nor modern, neither Gothic nor according to any of the regular orders of architecture.

The church of Notre Dame, however, is handfomely defigned, and has a fine cupola. This fabric was erected at the expence of the whole country, and was defigned as an expreffion of gratitude to the Virgin Mary, for having defended Tirol against the victorious arms of Guftavus Adolphus, whofe career was stopped in this diftrict.

From

From Infpruck we proceeded to Hall, about a league diftant, and lying on the fame river. This town is particularly famous for its faltworks. The neighbouring mountains furnish rock-falt, and fome hundreds of men are conftantly employed in hewing it out, and preparing it. About eight hundred loaves of falt are made at Hall, every week, each loaf weighing four hundred pounds. These falt works, and the mines in the adjoining mountains, render Hall a populous and rich town, and little inferior in thefe refpects to Infpruck itself.

Here we engaged a boat to carry us to Vienna. The first night we lay at Rottenberg, where ftands a strong caftle. Next day we dined at Kuffftain, which is defended by a lofty, and almoft inacceffible, fortrefs, and forms one of the barriers of Bavaria.

To follow the windings of the river Inn, through the variety of pleafant fcenes, to which its course led us, was extremely pleasant. Sometimes we had a prospect of naked rocks and mountains, broken into a thousand irregular fteeps and precipices. At others, we were prefented with a vaft line of firs, fo clofely fet, that it was impoffible to see the face of the ground. These rofe in fuch a regular afcent, as to afford the view of a whole wood at once. In short, the season of the year, and every feature that entered into the compofition of the scene were charming for travellers to contemplate; but the finest landscapes are generally leaft profitable; for here we met with very little corn or pafturage.

The long valley of the Tirol is on all fides environed by the Alps, but it fhoots out into several branches

branches among the breaks and hollows of the mountains.

The inhabitants of this track enjoy many par ticular privileges and exemptions, perhaps out of policy rather than favour. Being naturally well fortified by their mountains, and bordering on feveral republics, it would be no difficult matter for them, fhould they be tempted to it by oppreffion, to establish themselves as an independent ftate, or throw themselves into the army of the Swifs or the Venetians.

Poor as this country naturally is, the emperor derives confiderable advantages from its mines and metals. At the entrance of all the paffes that lead into Tirol are forts and citadels, moft advantageoufly difpofed to command the valleys and defiles, fo that it is very difficult for the moft powerful army to overrun it.

Celebrated as Addifon is, and ever will be, as a scholar and a man of tafte, we have thought it neceffary to curtail feveral of his remarks and defcriptions, both because they were too claflical for general readers, and because we fhall have occafion to revifit moft of the fcenes he defcribes, with more modern guides. Travellers are now become fo numerous, and many of their labours fo excellent, that it is more difficult to felect what is beft, than to find materials to work on. Italy, in particular, has been described, till repetition becomes vapid, and little new can be produced by the most ingenious, except what may arife from incidents and reflections, to which the paffing fcene and the thinking mind will ever give novelty and intereft, even in the most beaten track.

TRAVELS

THROUGH BARBARY,

BY

THOMAS SHAW,

D.D. F.R.S.

R. SHAW was born at Kendal in Westmor

DR

land, about the year 1692. Having receiv ed the early part of his education at the grammar school of that place, he was removed to Queen's College, Oxford, where he took his bachelor's degree in 1716, and three years after entering into holy orders, he was appointed chaplain to the English factory at Algiers.

In this fituation, he availed himself of the opportunity which was prefented him, of making excurfions into different parts of Barbary, and of defcribing the country. He alfo travelled into Syria and the Holy Land, and appears to have been a diligent and accurate obferver of whatever fell under his view. Poffeffing a confiderable fhare of learning, biblical as well as claffical, he was enabled to draw a comparison between ancient and modern fcenes, and to fet many difput ed points in a true light. His travels were published at Oxford fome years after his return, which was in 1733, and have always been esteemed for the folidity of his obfervations, rather than VOL. XII. H

for

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