JOSEPH ADDISON, ESQ.

THROUGH

ITALY AND SWISSERLAND.

THI

HIS genuine honour to literature and his country was the fon of a clergyman, afterwards preferred to the Deanery of Litchfield, and was born May 1, 1672. He received the early part of his education at the Charter House, and was afterwards entered at Queen's College, Oxford, but foon removed to Magdalen College, in the fame univerfity, where he was entered on the foundation.

Here thofe abilities, which afterwards rendered him fo illuftrious, began to difplay themfelves, and he was not long before he obtained a patron in that distinguished judge of merit, Lord Somers, who recommended him to King William. His majefty fettled a penfion of three hundred pounds a year on him, to enable him to travel into foreign parts. A fortunate concurrence of circumstances feems to have attended Addifon. He was noticed, and effectually fupported by a fucceffion of patrons; and he had thus an opportunity of thewing his powers at an early period. He was not fuffered to languifh in obfcurity, nor was h merely raised above actual want, and kept in VOL. XII,

B

fta

ftate of diftreffing dependance; but his protectors prided themfelves in his elevation, and fought their own honour in promoting his advantage.

Of a man fo well known, so universally esteemed, it is unneceffary to fay more. His travels have too frequently been confidered as claffical illuftrations, rather than remarks, on the countries through which he paffed. But we differ from this opinion; and though he certainly has difplayed an intimate acquaintance with the Latin poets and hiftorians, when the scene recalled them to his mind, his unaffected narrative and correct tafte render his own observations not only pleafing but instructive.

On the 12th of December, fays Mr. Addison, I fet, out from Marseilles for Genoa, in a small veffel, called a tartan, and arrived late at a French port, named Caffis. Though it was the depth of winter, the furrounding mountains were covered with green olive trees; and the fine gardens in the vicinity gave a variety and beauty to the proSpecs.

I was fhewn, at a diftance, the deferts which have been rendered fo famous by the romance of Mary Magdalen, who, after her arrival at Marfeilles with Lazarus and Jofeph of Arimathea, is faid to have wept away the reft of her life among thofe folitary rocks and mountains.

Next day, we fet fail again, and made the best of our way, till we were forced by contrary winds into St. Rimo, a very pretty town, subject to Genoa. Here we faw feveral perfons, in the middle of December, who had nothing over their shoulders but their fhirts, nor did they seem fenfible of the cold. It is certainly fortunate for the poorer fort to be born in a place that is free from the greatest inconvenience

inconvenience to which the more northern nations are fubject. And, indeed, without this natural benefit of the climate, the extreme misery and poverty of the lower claffes, in most of the Italian governments, would be infupportable. Near this city are many plantations of palm trees, which do not grow in any other part of Italy.

Sailing from thence, we fteered for Genoa, with a fair wind, that carried us directly into the gulf, which is remarkable for tempefts and a scarcity of fish; the latter circumftance, it is probable, is caused by the former. Horace fays,

While black with ftorms the ruffled ocean rolls,
And from the fisher's art defends her finny shoals.

We were forced to lie here two days; and the captain was fo apprehenfive of danger, that he fell on his knees and confeffed himself to a capuchin who was on board; but at laft, taking advantage of a fide wind, we were quickly driven as far back as Monaco, in the harbour of which we anchored. Lucan gives the following defcription of this port:

The winding rocks a spacious harbour frame,
That from the great Alcides takes its name:
Fenc'd to the west, and to the north it lies:
But when the winds in fouthern quarters rife,
Ships from their anchors torn become their sport,
And fudden tempests rage within the port.

The town of Monaco ftands on a promontory, where was formerly the temple of Hercules Monachus, from which this fmall principality takes its name.

In the dominions of the Prince of Monaco are only three towns. They were formerly under

the

the protection of the Spaniards; but the natives, driving out the garrifon of that nation, received a French one. The prince's palace contains handfome apartments hung with pictures of the moft celebrated beauties in the court of France. The officer who fhewed me the palace, gravely obferved, that the prince his mafter, and the king of France had always been good allies, as if their relative fituations would admit of an equality of interefts and connections.

Here we hired a little boat to carry us along the fhore to Genoa; but finding the fea too rough at Savona, we made the best of our way over land, over rugged mountains and precipices, more difficult than the paffage of Mount Cennis.

The Genoefe, like the ancient Ligurians, are reckoned artful and defigning. They are, however, more induftrious than the reft of the Italians, which is probably the effect of neceflity, as their country is lefs fertile. "The Genoefe," fays the Italian proverb, "have a fea without fish, land without trees, and men without faith." Virgil, it seems, was of the fame opinion in the latter respect.

Vain fool and coward, cries the lofty maid,

Caught in the train which thou thyself hast laid;
On others practice thy Ligurian arts;

Their ftratagems and feats of little hearts
Are loft on me; nor fhall thou fafe retire,
With vaunting lies, to thy fallacious fire.

On both fides of Genoa are many beautiful palaces. The city itself has the nobleft appearance of any in the world. Most of the houses being painted on the outfide, look remarkably gay and lively, and they are in general very lofty. But

notwith

notwithstanding the real fplendor here, I cannot reconcile myself to the ftyle in which many of the houfes are externally decorated. Figures, perfpectives, or pieces of history, are certainly very ornamental; but instead of thefe, we often find the palaces painted with the different orders of architecture.

About a mile from Genoa is the imperial villa, the front of which is deftitute of painting, and being compofed of a Doric and a Corinthian row of pillars, has a beautiful effect.

The Duke of Doria's palace has the handsomeft outfide of any in Genoa, and that of Durazza is the best furnished within. In the firft of thefe is an apartment hung with tapestry, in which are reprefented the great perfons of that family, which has produced a line of heroes and of flatefmen. Andrew Doria, one of the greateft admirals and generals of his time, has a ftatue erected. to his honour, at the entrance of the doge's paJace, with the glorious title of the DELIVERER of the Commonwealth; while one of the fame race is called its PRESERVER.

In the doge's palace are the apartments where the great and little council, with the two colleges, hold their affemblies; but the ftate being poor, though many of its members are extremely rich, infinitely more fplendor and magnificence may be observed in the houses of particular perfons, than in those which belong to the public. But we find, in most of the other ftates of Europe, that the people live in the greatest poverty where the governors are rich.

The churches are very fine, particularly that of the Annunciation, which makes a moft beautiful appearance, being full of ftatues, paintings, and VOL. XII. C gildings.