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an occasion : “ When the poor and needy seek water, and there is none, and their tongue faileth for thirst, I the Lord will hear them, I the God of Israel will not forsake them. I will open rivers in high places, and fountains in the midst of the valleys: I will make the wilderness a pool of water, and the dry land springs of water."

In the neighbourhood of the Colosa River, which we reached one evening, there was, a short time ago, a considerable population: now not a kraal or a hut is to be seen. The hand of violence has swept them all away; and the whole country around, though admirably adapted both for grazing and for tillage, is a scene of stillness and desolation. A few years ago, the warriorclans of Faku and 'Ncapai came down on the defenceless inhabitants of this region, and scattered them in every direction, sweeping off their herds, and slaying men, women, and children. A Mission which was once contemplated to this vicinity, was consequently abandoned.

Having crossed the Bashee, (Umbashee,) we had entered the Amampondo country, the territory of the two Chiefs just named. It contains about 7,200 square miles, and is bounded on the west by the Bashee, on the east by the Umzimvooboo and Natal, on the south by the ocean, and on the north by a range of mountains, somewhat undefined, called the Umtata range. It is a rich and fertile country, containing two or three noble rivers, on the banks of which, and in the neighbouring valleys, there resides a considerable population. The third day after our departure from BeechamWood, brought us to Morley, another of those lovely spots, whence light is emanating through these moral wastes. Here we found several of the Missionaries and their wives from different stations, who had come to attend the sittings of the Sectional District-Meeting which was to be held in the following week. It is impossible to describe the joy which is experienced on occasions of this kind, when, after several months of almost solitary toil in the midst of a heathen land, during which the Missionary has probably had no intercourse whatever with civilized man beyond the circle of his own family, he is permitted to meet his brethren, and to converse with them. It is an event which he anticipates six months before it occurs, and on which memory dwells with pleasure six months after.

Morley is situated in a charming locality, near the Umtata River. The grandeur of the scenery around baffles all description. Undulating hills, magnificent ravines, and extensive forests, present themselves to the eye, and awaken in the breast emotions of delight and awe. The climate is somewhat different from that of Kaffraria-Proper and the Colony, the atmosphere being much more humid, and subject to very heavy fogs. One morning during our visit the whole country seemed enveloped in a cloud, when gradually the sky above our heads became brilliant and clear, whilst the valleys below remained immersed in vapour. It was then delightful to witness that vapour, rising in fleecy patches higher and yet higher in the heavens, and to gaze upon the beauteous landscape as, by degrees, it was uncurtained to the view. The effect was very remarkable, and brought to the recollection the words of the Psalmist and the Prophet, "He causeth the vapours to ascend from the ends of the earth;" words which were probably penned in reference to some such phenomenon as this. The Mission station itself was exceedingly neat and charming. A beautiful cottage covered with thatch, having in the front of it a little garden fenced off with rails, and stocked with roses, geraniums, and numerous other plants and trees, formed the residence of the Missionary. On the left was another cottage, occupied by the Catechist; and on the right the chapel, a very

humble but substantial edifice of stone, also covered with thatch, and capable of holding three or four hundred people. Several out-buildings were also connected with the station, and numerous native kraals surrounded it on every hand. The moral influence of such a place as Morley, (exhibiting as it does the comforts of civilized life,) on the mind of a population like that in the midst of which it stands, must be of the highest value, independently of its chief design. It is no wonder that the natives look upon it with reverence, and that it is known as "the bush," or place of refuge, throughout the country.

Morley was originally established in the year 1829, by the Rev. W. Shepstone, with special reference to the moral and spiritual wants of a highly interesting tribe, the descendants of shipwrecked Europeans, who dwelt in this neighbourhood. In the year 1782, the "Grosvenor," East Indiaman, was totally wrecked upon the coast in south latitude 31° 10', east longitude 29° 50'. Many of the crew perished in their attempts to gain the land; but one hundred and twenty-seven were saved, among whom were several ladies and gentlemen, passengers in the ship. Of these some were murdered by the natives; and the rest were sought for, but in vain, by a colonist named Van Reenen, who, however, met with some mulattoes, together with three white women, who had been shipwrecked many years prior to the loss of the "Grosvenor," and whom the native Chiefs had taken as their wives. As the result of these occurrences, in the course of years, a considerable tribe of mixed blood arose, whose Chief Dapa was visited by the Rev. W. Shaw, in 1828. An account of his visit was given in the Wesleyan Missionary Notices for the year 1829. Dapa and his family were living on the banks of the Umnenga River. He was the son of a white woman called Betsy, who was wrecked, as Mr. Shaw supposed, eighty years before his visit. He was an infirm old man, and bore indications of his descent from Europeans. But he was living as a Heathen, and was as ignorant as the rest of the inhabitants of the country. Most gladly, however, did he listen to the proposal that a Missionary should be sent to reside among his people; and so great was his anxiety on this subject, that when Mr. Shepstone was appointed to commence the station, he (the Chief) was ready to quarrel with some other branches of the tribe relative to the locality in which it should be situated. "The institution must be mine," said Dapa: "I first sent for the Missionary, and he comes at my request." The Mission was commenced; but since that period through what vicissitudes has it passed! what trials has it sustained! Chapters might be written on the native wars which have, at different times, been waged, within a circle of a few miles round this lovely spot; and many a story might be told of human sufferings, which would cause the heart to bleed. But the shield of the God of Missions has been over his servants who have laboured here; and though once Mr. Shepstone was obliged to flee before a host of warriors, and the station was abandoned for a season, yet it was afterwards resumed under more favourable auspices, and has been eminently beneficial to the heathen clans around. Hundreds, if not thousands, of some of the wildest of earth's sons, have here heard words they never heard before,-the words of life and peace; and the hearts of not a few, though hard as the flinty rock, have here been melted and subdued. With some of the converts on the station, who were employed as Class-Leaders, Local Preachers, and Teachers in the Sabbath-school, I was gratified exceedingly. What stronger proof of the divinity of the Gospel can be found, or required, than that which is furnished by a man once savage and cruel, "sitting at the

feet of Jesus, clothed, and in his right mind," exhibiting virtues of the highest order, and not only illustrating in his life the principles of truth, but so understanding them as to be able to teach them to others? We do think that the history of modern Missions supplies one of the plainest and most palpable refutations of infidelity that the mind can desire.

The Sabbath morning after our arrival at Morley presented a very lively and animating scene. At an early hour numbers of the natives began to flock towards the station, and as I stood at the garden-gate of the Mission-house, I observed several companies marching up the hill in something like military order. They were coming to the house of God. Their appearance at first sight was wild; but they had left their assegais and shields at home, because it was the Sabbath-day. The chapel was soon crowded. Numbers could not gain admission. A second congregation met in the open air, and the praises of Immanuel were sung that day by many voices that had been formerly accustomed only to the war-whoop and the battle-cry. We have entitled our chapter, "Light in the Darkness:" it was the recollection of such scenes as these, that suggested that title to our mind. Kaffraria is indeed a land of darkness; but its Mission institutions are like cities set on hills, whence light irradiates and dispels the gloom. But they are too few and far between. Where there is one, there should be ten. The evangelization of the country is retarded only by the inadequacy of the means employed. It will be won to Christ when the church sends forth an army equal to the enterprise. And here we gladly record an instance of Christian liberality. A merchant who resides in the Colony was travelling through Kaffraria, and on a Sabbath stopped at Morley. As usual, the congregation could not be accommodated in the chapel. He observed this, and asked why the Missionary did not enlarge the building. Being told that want of funds was the hinderance, he nobly said, "Set to work, get your people to assist you, and let the chapel be enlarged. Induce the natives to give what they can in labour or in kind; and then send the balance of the account to me, and I will pay it."

During the sittings of the District-Meeting, many interesting statements were made relative to the influence of Christianity, and the progress of religious principles. Among others was the following:-At Clarkebury, in the Tambookie country, a station which I afterwards visited, one of the Chiefs came to ask for rain. The Missionary endeavoured to show that it was not in his power to make rain; (for this was the idea which the Chief actually entertained ;) but that prayer must be made to God, who alone causeth the rain to descend upon the earth. The Chief said he would come on the Sabbath to pray for rain; and he came with several of his attendants, when prayer was made accordingly. Was it in answer to prayer, or merely by fortuity and chance, that the rain began to fall? The morning of that day was clear and beautiful; in the evening copious showers came down, until the parched ground was as a pool. The Chief presented himself before the Missionary again. He came to return thanks; and a day of general rejoicing was appointed, when multitudes assembled, and the incense of thanksgiving ascended up to God. Is it fanaticism to recognise in such occurrences the hand divine? Far be it from the Christian Missionary to foster superstitious views in heathen minds, or even to take advantage of men's ignorance, as Columbus did, when he predicted an eclipse to the wild men of America; but far be it from him also to deny the power of prayer, or to interpret such events as the above on the cold principles of rationalism.

I strolled one day on the heights over the banks of the Umtata, and there I could have wandered for hours. Before me lay an extensive valley, bounded on the left by hills which seemed to meet, but open to the right, as far as the eye could reach. Its depth was considerable; and at the bottom flowed the river in a circuitous course, twisting itself about like a mighty serpent. The sides of the mountains were clothed with verdure, and the nooks and recesses filled with bush, "in which one can scarcely distinguish the stems to which the several blossoms and leaves belong." How glorious are the works of God! Wherever you go, if your soul is attuned to praise, you will feel that you are in his temple; but never will that feeling be more powerful than when you stand amid the woods and wilds of mountain scenery.

The Umtata takes its rise in the chain of mountains previously mentioned, and is joined in its course by several tributaries. It empties itself into the sea in latitude 31° 5′, longitude 29° 15'. The tide flows into it for upwards of seven miles; and it is not improbable that some day it will be entered by the merchant-ship. I have not heard that the geological character of this region has been carefully observed; but it appeared similar to that of the Colony, in the neighbourhood of the coast. The rocks are formed chiefly of trap and sandstone. Iron ore is found in considerable quantities as you approach the sea. The soil is rich and fertile, and, when cultivated, yields abundance of maize, Kaffir corn, and pumpkins. In the garden at Morley the cotton-plant has been reared, and would doubtless flourish in this neighbourhood, as well as at Port-Natal, where it will soon become a staple commodity of trade. It is not improbable that Southern Africa is destined to become a very important field for the production of this valuable plant. The great desideratum at present is labour; but as the infant Colony at Natal becomes inhabited, and as the aborigines of the country rise in the scale of civilization, all difficulties will give way, and the cotton-plant will cover thousands of acres, the soil of which has never yet been turned.*

Leaving Morley, we crossed the Umtata by the bridle-path, having sent our waggon round by the ordinary route. The river, that seemed but a streamlet as we viewed it from the heights above, proved, on our approach, a formidable current. By the aid of natives, we succeeded in fording it, though not without a wetting; and my sketch-book, which was fastened to my saddle-bags, was thoroughly saturated with water. However, making the best of it, we rode along, and, after journeying nearly a whole day over hill and dale, plain and valley, came at length to Buntingville, where Mrs. Jenkins, the Missionary's wife, provided us with a refreshing cup of tea.

Buntingville does not disgrace its name. The neatness of the Mission premises, the number of the inhabitants, and the character of the surrounding country, constitute it a very lively and interesting place. It is situated in the midst of the territory of Faku, though at a considerable distance from the Chief's own residence. Faku is the head of a large and powerful tribe, said to consist of several clans, each of which was at one time very

* At the time of Mr. Smith's visit, the Rev. Samuel Palmer was the Missionary at the station. In his manuscript, Mr. Smith inserts a merited tribute to the excellent character and invaluable labours of his friend and brother Minister; but as we have so recently given (in our Number for May) an account of Mr. Palmer's life and ministerial work, we have omitted the passage, honourable alike to the writer and to the subject of it.-EDIT.

considerable, and probably inhabited the country contiguous to that of the Zulus. The tribe is called the Amampondo, and is remarkable for its warlike character. Its numbers have been estimated at twenty thousand. The authority of the Chief is almost unlimited; and though he does not bear the character of a despot, his government is much more arbitrary than that of the Chiefs of the Amakosa. Prior to the establishment of Missions in his country, he was constantly at war with the neighbouring tribes; and wherever his warriors approached, consternation seized the inhabitants. His enemies were often slaughtered without mercy. He spared neither women nor children, neither the aged nor the young. But a change has taken place. Faku has become an ally of the Colonial Government; and partly from political motives, but, to a considerable extent, through the influence of Christian Missionaries, he has partially abandoned war, and has resolved, to use a Kaffir phrase, "to sit still," and cultivate the ground. He was anxious that a Missionary should be appointed to reside with him, near "the great place," and sent a letter to the General Superintendent of the Missions, in the shape of two elephant's tusks, urging his request. The Rev. T. Jenkins paid him a visit, for the purpose of conversing with him on the subject. The Chief said, "I want you to come and live with me.” The Missionary replied, "You are a man of war: I am a man of peace. If I come to live with you, how do I know that I shall be safe?" Faku hesitated for a moment, and then said, "If you will come, there shall be peace in the land: you love peace, and I will love it too." The Missionary went; and the result has been the rise of another promising Mission in the country, which has been designated Palmerton, and is situated on the eastern side of the Umzimvooboo, where the Chief himself has taken up his abode. The Mission at Buntingville, however, is still in efficient operation. The establishment of the new station will not interfere with the older one. The mother and the daughter will exist and work together.

We had not an opportunity of witnessing the Sabbath congregation at Buntingville; but in the evening of Monday, the day of our arrival, a religious service was held of a somewhat novel character. The object of it was to give an opportunity to any person who had heard the sermon on the Sabbath, and who was desirous of receiving clearer information, to ask questions of the Missionary relative to the subject of the preceding day's discourse, and by this means to ascertain how far the instruction that had been given was appreciated and understood. A goodly number of persons assembled at the appointed hour; and it was manifest that not a little interest was felt in the proceedings of the meeting. It was impossible to look upon such a congregation without emotion. The appearance of the men was extremely singular. Their head-dress consisted of a natural wig, formed by turning up the hair all round, and securing it at the top by a ring made of wax. Whence this strange practice originated I am not aware; but it is common to all the Amampondos, and gives to their physiognomy a very peculiar aspect. I was told that they take great pains with these wigs, and that the profession of a hair-dresser amongst them is both lucrative and respectable. It was gratifying to witness persons such as these, wild and barbarous though they seemed, engaged in the worship of Almighty God; and it was peculiarly gratifying to find that some of them had become acquainted with the elements of religious truth, and were in possession of something more than the mere theory of Christianity. The questions elicited from several members of the congregation, and the observations which they made, showed that both the mind and the heart

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