fuch chimerical Relations; for it is perhaps of this Place that Claudian fpeaks, in the following Defcription;

Eft locus extremum pandit quà Gallia littus
Oceani prætentus aquis, quà fertur Ulyffes
Sanguine libato populum moviffe Silentüm:
Illic Umbrarum tenui ftridore volantům
Flebilis auditur queftus; fimulachra coloni
Pallida defunctafque vident migrare figuras, &c.
Claud. in Ruf. lib. 1.

A Place there lies on Gallia's utmost Bounds,
Where rifing Seas infult the Frontier Grounds:
Ulyffes here the Blood of Victims fhed,

And rais'd the pale Affembly of the Dead.
Oft in the Winds is heard a plaintive Sound
Of melancholy Ghofts that hover round:
The lab'ring Plow-man oft with Horror fpies
Thin airy Shapes that o'er the Furrows rife,
(A dreadful Scene!) and skim before his Eyes.

I know there is nothing more undetermined among the Learned than the Voyage of Ulyffes; fome confining it to the Mediterranean, others extending it to the great Ocean, and others afcribing it to a World of the Poet's own making; tho' his Converfations with the Dead are generally supposed to have been in the Narben Gaul.

Incultos adiit Laftrigonas Antiphatenque, &c.
Atque hæc feu noftras interfunt cognita terras,
Fabula five novum dedit his Erroribus Orbem.

Tibul. Lib. iv. Eleg. i. v. 59.

Uncertain whether, by the Winds convey'd,
On real Seas to real Shores he ftray'd;

Or,

Or, by the Fable driv'n from Coast to Coaft,
In new imaginary Worlds was loft.

The next Day we again fet fail, and made the beft of our way 'till we were forced, by contrary Winds, into St. Remo, a very pretty Town in the Genoefe Dominions. The Front to the Sea is not large; but there are a great many Houses behind it, built up the Side of the Mountain to avoid the Winds and Vapours that come from Sea. We here faw feveral Perfons that in the midft of December had nothing over their Shoulders but their Shirts, without complaining of the Cold. It is certainly very lucky for the poorer fort to be born in a Place that is free from the greatest Inconvenience, to which those of our Northern Nations are fubject; and indeed, without this natural Benefit of their Climates, the extreme Mifery and Poverty that are in most of the Italian Governments would be infupportable. There are at St. Remo many Plantations of Palm-trees, that do not grow in other Parts of Italy. We failed from hence directly for Genoa; and had a fair Wind that carried us into the middle of the Gulph, which is very remarkable for Tempefts and Scarcity of Fish. It is probable one may be the Cause of the other, whether it be that the Fishermen cannot employ their Art with so much Succefs in fo troubled a Sea, or that the Fish do not care for inhabiting fuch stormy Waters:

-Atrum

Defendens pifces hiemat mare-Hor. Sat. ii. lib. ii.v. 16. While black with Storms that ruffled Ocean rolls, And from the Fisher's Art defends her Finny Sholes.

We were forced to lie in it two Days, and our Captain thought his Ship in fo great Danger, that he fell upon his Knees, and confefs'd himself to a Capucin who was on board with us. But at laft, taking the Advantage of a Side-wind, we were driven back in a few Hours time as far as Monaco. Lucan has given us a Description of the Harbour that we found fo very welcome to us, after the great Danger we had escaped.

Quaque fub Herculeo Sacratus nomine portus
Urget rupe cavá pelagus: non Corus in illum
Jus habet aut Zephyrus: Solus fua littora turbat
Circius, & tuta prohibet ftatione Monaci.
Lib. i. v. 405.

The winding Rocks a fpacious Harbour frame,
That from the great Alcides takes its Name:
Fenc'd to the West and to the North it lies;
But when the Winds in Southern Quarters rife,
Ships, from their Anchors torn, become their Sport,
And fudden Tempefts rage within the Port.

On the Promontory, where the Town of Monaco now ftands, was formerly the Temple of Hercules Monacus, which ftill gives the Name to this fmall Principality.

Aggeribus focer Alpinis atque arce Monaci
Defcendens
Virg. Æn. vi. v. 830,

From Alpine Heights, and from Monacus' Fane,
The Father firft defcends into the Plain.

There are but three Towns in the Dominions of the Prince of Monaco. The chief of them is fituate an a Rock which runs out into the Sea, and is well fortified

fortified by Nature. It was formerly under the Protection of the Spaniard, but not many Years fince drove out the Spanish Garrifon, and received a French one, which confifts at prefent of five hundred Men, paid and officer'd by the French King. The Officer, who fhewed me the Palace, told me, with a great deal of Gravity, that his Mafter and the King of France, amidst all the Confufions of Europe, had ever been good Friends and Allies. The Palace has handfom Apartments, that are many of them hung with Pictures of the reigning Beauties in the Court of France. But the best of the Furniture was at Rome, where the Prince of Monaco refided at that time Ambaffador. We here took a little Boat to creep along the Sea-fhore as far as Genoa ; but at Savona, finding the Sea too rough, we were forced to make the best of our way by Land, over very rugged Mountains and Precipices: For this Road is much more difficult than that over Mount Cennis.

The Genoefe are esteemed extremely Cunning, Induftrious, and inur'd to Hardship above the reft of the Italians; which was likewife the Character of the old Ligurians. And indeed it is no wonder, while the Barrennefs of their Country continues, that the Manners of the Inhabitants do not change: Since there is nothing makes Men fharper, and fets their Hands and Wits more at work, than Want. The Italian Proverb fays of the Genoefe, that they have a Sea without Fifh, Land without Trees, and Men without Faith. The Character the Latin Poets have given of them is not much different.

Affuetumque malo Ligurem. Virg. Georg. ii. v. 168, The hard Ligurians, a laborious kind.

Haud Ligurum extremus, dum fallere fata finebant.

Virg. Æn. xi. v. 700.

Yet, like a true Ligurian, born to cheat,

(At least whilft Fortune favour'd his Deceit) Dryden.

Vane Ligur, fruftraque animis elate fuperbis,
Nequicquam patrias tentafti lubricus artes.
Id. ib. v. 715.

Vain Fool and Coward, cries the lofty Maid,
Caught in the Train which thou thyfelf haft laid,
On others practise thy Ligurian Arts;
Thin Stratagems, and Tricks of little Hearts
Are loft on me; nor fhalt thou fafe retire,

With vaunting Lies, to thy fallacious Sire. Dryden.

There are a great many beautiful Palaces ftanding along the Sea-fhore on both fides of Genoa, which make the Town appear much longer than it is, to those that fail by it. The City itself makes the nobleft Show of any in the World. The Houfes are most of them painted on the Outfide; fo that they look extremely gay and lively; befides that they are esteemed the higheft in Europe, and ftand very thick together. The New-Street is a double Range of Palaces from one End to the other, built with an excellent Fancy, and fit for the greatest Princes to inhabit. I cannot however be reconciled to their manner