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CHAP. III.
P. 63.
THEBES, TO THE HIERON OF THE MUSES IN MOUNT HELICON.
Population of Thebes-Female inhabitants-Antient Gates of Thebes-Other Antiquities
—Medals—remarkable Soros-Albanian market-Journey to Citharon and Platæa—
View of the Cadmæan Citadel-Platănă Village-Asopus-Source of the River-
Traditions of the Battle of Platea-Condition of the Inhabitants-Camp of Mardonius
-Situation of the Sacred Well-Platean Territory-Ruins of the City of Platea-
Medals observed upon the spot-Mural Turrets of the Citadel-Cocla-Remains of
LEUCTRA-Ruins at Phria-Helicon-village of Neocorio-Doubts respecting the
supposed Situation of Thespia-Medals-Discovery of the old Route over Helicon-
Further Account of the Albanian Peasants—Journey over Mount Helicon- Monastery
of St. Nicholo-Antiquities discovered there-Situation of the Fountain Aganippe and
Grove of the Muses ascertained-river Permessus-Inscription relating to the Games
called MOTZEIA-Extraordinary beauty of the scenery-Situation of the Fountain
Hippocrene.
CHAP. IV.
-
P. 107.
Albanian Tenants
- Joannina
HIERON OF THE MUSES, UPON MOUNT HELICON, TO LEBADEA.
Plants of Helicon-View from the Heights-Valley of Sagără-Ascra-Summit of
Helicon-Descent of the Mountain-Kotûmala-Panori-Lebadéa-House of the
Archon-Manners of the higher class of Modern Greeks-Order of their meals—
Society-Pawcoi-Ceremony observed in holding a Divân-Low pride-Dresses-
Etiquette concerning slippers.
· Modern state of
Lebadéa-Hieron of Trophonius-Uncertainty respecting the Adytum-Sources of
the Hercyna- Validity of the remarks by Pausanias-Further account of the sources
of the River-Water of Oblivion-Water of Memory-Origin of these appellations-
General aspect of the Hieron-receptacles for the votive offerings Throne of
Mnemosyne-Stoma of the Adytum-Attempt to explore the interior-Situation of
the consecrated Grove-its original decorations-Denuded state of the antient City—
Acropolis-Commerce of LEBADEA.
CHAP. V.
P. 137.
EXCURSIONS FROM LEBADEA TO CHÆRONEA AND ORCHOMENUS.
The Author visits a village called Capranû-Aspect of Parnassus-Ruins of Charonéa-
Inscriptions-Aqueduct―Theatre-Acropolis—Battles of Charonéa-Polyandrium of
the Thebans-Sceptre of Agamemnon-Antiquities at the Church of Capranû-Marble
Cathedra-Five Inscriptions upon the same Tablet--Visit to a village called Romaiko-
remarkable Bas-relief-Visit to Screpû—River Melas-Tomb of Hesiod-Ruins of
Orchomenus Archaic Inscriptions-Hieron of the Graces-Inscriptions relating to
the Charitesian Games-Observations on the Eolian Digamma- Homoloïa —
Sophocles of Athens, mentioned as a Victor in Tragedy-Later Inscriptions—Hieron
of
of Bacchus Sciathericum of the antient City-Greek Epigram thereby illustrated-
Treasury of Minyas-Proof of the antiquity of domes in architecture-Acropolis of
Orchomenus-Condition of the present inhabitants-Superstition respecting certain
stones-Return to Lebadéa.
CHAP. VI.
P. 171.
LEBADEA TO DELPHI.
The author sets out for Delphi-View of Parnassus-Circular Monument-Defile of Schiste
-Situation of Crissa-Castri-Present condition of Delphi-its antiquities and
natural curiosities-Inscriptions at St. Nicholo-Fountain Castalius-Gorgonian Head
-Plants-Discovery of the Corycian Cave-Eastern Gate of the city-Gymnasium—
Inscriptions there-Stadium-Monastery of Elias-Caverns-Plan of Delphi-
Probable Site of the Temple of Apollo-Other Inscriptions-Cause of the wretched
state of Castri-Medals.
CHAP. VII.
P. 199.
DELPHI, TO THE SUMMIT OF PARNASSUS, AND TITHOREA.
Arracovia-Vineyards of Parnassus-Prospect-Condition of the inhabitants—Alteration of
temperature-Traditions-Journey to the summit-Kallidia-Disappearance of the
vegetation-Crater of Parnassus-Nature of the Peak-State of the thermometer upon
the Heights-Objects visible from the summit of the mountain—Bearings by the compass
-Adventure with the horses-Geological features-Singular effect of spontaneous
decomposition in Limestone-Inference deduced from such phænomena-Plants of
Parnassus Lugari, or Lycorea- Monastery of the Virgin - Caloyers their
devotional exercises · Ignorance of those priests-Journey to Velitza-Chachales
torrent-Discovery of the Ruins of Tithorea-its relative position with regard to
Delphi-Produce of Velitza-Simplicity of the natives-their miserable condition-
Antiquity of Tithorea-Other memorabilia-Egyptian custom of embalming birds
illustrated-Inscription relating to Tithorea-its date ascertained-Other Inscriptions.
CHAP. VIII.
--
P. 223.
FROM TITHOREA, TO THE STRAITS OF THERMOPYLÆ, AND TO PHARSALUS.
Palæo-Castro-Ledon-Elatéa-Observations by the magnetic needle-Amphicléa-Via
Militaris
Callidromus
Cephissus Bearings from Mount Œta
Trachiniæ of
Sophocles-Cenæan Promontory-Appearance of the Sinus Maliacus-Bodonitza-
Topography of the Epicnemidian Locris-Thronium-Polyandrium of the Greeks
who fell at Thermopyla-Situation of the Spartan advanced guard-Great northern
wall-Platanus Orientalis-Of the Pyle and Therma-Fetid
gaseous exhalation—
alluded to by Sophocles-Nature of the Pass of Thermopyla-Path over Mount Œta
-Heracléa and river Asopus Plain of Trachinia -Turkish Dervéne-Zeitûn-
Albanese Women-Bearings from the Heights-Plain of Dowclu-Plain of Crocius
Alos-Plain of Pharsalia-Pharsa-Turkish Khan-Tartar Couriers.
CHAP. IX.
P. 260.
PHARSALIA, TO THE VALLEY OF TEMPE.
Appearance of the country after passing Thermopylæ-Boundaries and names of Thessaly
-Pharsalus and Palæ pharsalus-Population of Pharsa-Field of the Battle of Pharsalia
-Appearance of the Plain-Pelasgiotis-numerous Sepulchres-Antique Cars-Larissa
-evil disposition of its inhabitants-Population-Commerce-Penëus river-Larissa
Cremaste-Road to Tempe-Tumuli-Military Way - Nesonis Palus-View of
Olympus-Entrance of the valley--Gonnus-Origin of the Defile-Ampelâkia -
natural locality of the Verde-antico marble-consequence of the discovery-Atrakia—
Marmor Atracium-village of Ampelâkia-manufactory-Effect of the English Cotton
mills-manner of making the thread-Process of dying the wool-Bearing of the Defile
-Antient fortification-Roman Inscription-its date ascertained-use made of it-
Former notions of Tempe-Descriptions given of it by antient authors-Pococke and
Busching-Value of Livy's observations-Pliny and Ælian.
CHAP. X.
P. 298.
VALE OF TEMPE, TO THESSALONICA.
Mauro-Nero and Pellica rivers
Inscriptions
Elian-Laurel of Tempe- Banditti-Length of the Pass-Appearance upon leaving the
Defile-Heracléa-Turkish Funeral-Height of Olympus-Mount Athos-Kallidia—
Malathria
Bathyrus - Antient
Geography of Pieria uncertain-Tomb of Orpheus-Pimpléa-Observations of Livy-
situation of Dium-Katarina- View of Olympus-Palæo-Castro-Cleanly Cottages of
the Albanians-Greeks compared with Albanians-Women-Shepherds' Dogs in body-
clothes-mountain barrier of Thessaly-Inscriptions between Katarina and Kitros-
Country still called Macedonia-mountains to the north of Salonica-Kitros-Pydna-
Tomb of the Macedonians-Transactions at Pydna-Leuterochori-Methone-Lelâno
-Alorus-Inge Mauro ferry-Maurosmack ferry-Axius, or Vardar river-Pella—
Nature of the country celebrated for Alexander's Nativity-News of the Plague—
Tekâle-Geography of Macedonia-ga-importance of ascertaining its position-
Arrival at Thessalonica.
CHAP. XI.
P. 345.
THESSALONICA.
Hospitality and kindness of the English Consul-Visit paid to another merchant-Account
of the Plague-Walls of the City-its antient splendor-Citadel-Torso-Propylæum
of the Hippodrome-Caryatides-Rotunda-Situation of the Hippodrome-St. Sophia
-Mosque of St. Demetrius-Temple of the Therméan Venus-Shooting Excursion-
Triumphal Arch of Augustus- Arch of Constantine-Soroi-Medals-Mines of
Macedonia-Population of Salonica, and of all Greece-Commerce of Salonica- Plan
of Macedonia-Cotton-Tobacco-Wool-Imports of Salonica-Government-Game
found in the Environs-Prices of Provisions—Malâria—Antient and modern Jews—
Comment upon St. Paul- Want of communication with the Bazars-splendid Prospect
of the Olympian chain of mountains-Valedictory Retrospect of all Greece.
CHAP. XII.
P. 377.
THESSALONICA TO NEAPOLIS.
Departure from Salonica-Lake of St. Basil-Clissele-remarkable rocks-Lake Beshck-
Uncertainty of authors respecting it-Bolbe Palus-Valley of Arethusa-TOMB OF
EURIPIDES-Bromiscus-Of the Dogs called Esterices-Situation of the Sepulchre-
Trana Beshek-natural deposit of the Bianco é Nero Porphyry-Micra Beshek―
Khan Erenderi Baux-Mount Athos visited by Mr. Tweddell-Manuscripts –
Cause of their being overlooked—some account of the Monasteries-Sources of their
wealth-Antient Cities of Athos-Dervene-Strymon river-Amphipolis-various
names of the city—Orphano—Antient Medals-Appearance of the country after
passing the Strymon-Kynarga-Krenides-Plain of Sêres-explanation of the term-
Equestrian Turkish Ladies-Pravista-Drabiscus-Drama-Philippi- Cavallo
Gold and Silver mines of Macedonia-Neapolis.
CHAP. XIII.
P. 416.
NEAPOLIS, TO THE TERRITORY OF THE CICONES.
---
Antiquities of Neapolis-Belon-Via Militaris-Phagres-Tartar Couriers—River Nestus—
Yeniga-Ramadan-Turkish Saint- Ruins of Bistonia-Palus Bistonis-Pyrgis-
Rhodope - River Kûrû-tchi-Tombs of Turkish Saints National Wells Ruins
at Mycena Kalis-Great Plain of Chouagilarkir — Gymmergïne - Leunclavius
-Public Bath Guyumdjì— Disregard shewn to the Firmân-Conduct of the
Surudji-Bridges-Tchafts-tcheyr-extraordinary Hospitality of a Turk-Serrium
Promontory-Shepshe-Peresteria-Great Roman road-Territory of the Cicones-
Appearance of Fairy after its conflagration-Ismarus-Perilous Situation of the
Author and his Companions-Behaviour of the Rebels-Particulars of the sacking
and burning of Fairy-Cause of the disaster-Difficulty of quitting the Town.
CHAP. XIV.
P. 449.
FROM THE TERRITORY OF THE CICONES, TO CONSTANTINOPLE.
River Hebrus Plain of Doriscus -Enos-River Tearus-Antient allusion to the Tobacco
plant-Wash gold of the Hebrus-Territory of the Apsynthi-Achooria-Kishan-
State of the country-Medals-Grecian origin of English Pantomime-Caduceus of
Hermes explained-Mode of practising Physic in Turkey-Ramadan-Bulgar Kieu-
Malgara - Develi -Winter of the Archipelago-Prayers of the Moslems-National
Character of the Turks- Yenijick-Rhodosto-Bisanthe-Prospect of the Propontis-
Antient and modern history of Rhodosto-Inhospitable appearance of Thrace-Thracian
and Trojan Barrows-Eski Eregli-Situation of Perinthus-Heracléa-Inscription--
Macrontichos-Curious anecdote of a Swallow-Selymbria-Roman marks of distance
-Crevátis Büyük Tchekmadji-Kûtchûk Tchekmadji-Arrival at Constantinople-
Behaviour of the populace-Soros of Atracian marble-Péra.
CHAP. XV.
P. 480.
CONSTANTINOPLE.
Circumstances that prevented the author's departure-Dangerous influence of the climate-
Unhealthy state of the English at Péra-Rats and Cats-Society of Péra-Spies-
Etiquette-Evening assemblies-State of the Turkish Government-Persons who farm
the product of the common sewers-Diamonds-Other precious stones-Vasa murrhina—
Bazar for the Pataal Tash, or Keff-kil-Localities of this mineral_manner of collecting it
-Drug-market-Shops for Stationery and Book-binding-Tobacconists-Tchibouque
manufactories-Manner of visiting the city- Last visit to Sancta Sophia - Further
account of that edifice Views of its interior-Cisterna maxima-Gyllius—Basilica—
Aqueduct of the Roman Emperors-Porta aurea-Description of the Wall of Theodosius.
-Antient. Cyclopéan Walls of Byzantium-Mahomet's breach by the Cannon-Gate-
Chalcedon-Maiden's Castle, or Tower of Leander-Sinus Byzantinus-Cause of its
erroneous appellation of The Golden Horn-Jewish depravity - Cyât-Khánah-
Marcidum mare.
SUPPLEMENT.
CHAP. I.
P. 527.
CONSTANTINOPLE, TO THE PASSAGE OF MOUNT HÆMUS.
Temperature of the Winter Season-Grand Signior sends an Ambassador to Paris-The
Author prepares to accompany the Embassy-receives a magnificent present of Wood-
Opal-Death of Kauffer-Cavalcade upon leaving Péra-Appearance of the Ambas-
sador-Interview with his Excellency-Commencement of the Expedition-Persons in
the Suite-Aspect of the Country-Pivatis-Selivria-Kunneklea-Tchorlu-Turullus
-Alarm excited by the journey-remarkable Serpent - Caristrania - Burghaz -
Approach to Mount Hæmus—additional escort-Hasilbalem-Kirk Iklisie — Hericlér—
Fachi-Beymilico-Carnabat-Dobralle-River Kamtchi-sù- Chaligh Kavack-
new-discovered Plants-Dragoelu-Shumla-Festival of the Courban Bairam.
CHAP. II.
P. 559.
FROM THE PASSAGE OF MOUNT HÆMUS, TO BUKOREST.
Occurrences at Shumla-Medals-Electrum-Marcianopolis-situation of Shumla-Scordisci
-Comparative Vocabulary of the English, Bulgarian, Albanian, Erse, and Turkish
Languages-Population and Trade of Shumla-Courban Bairam - Tatchekeui—
remarkable Quadruped-Lazgarat-Torlach-Pisanitza-Rustchûk-River Danube-
Trade of Rustchuûk-Passage of the river-Giurdzgio-Change in the mode of travelling
- General
- Tiya, or Tiasum - Breaking of a Bridge Kapûka, or Napouka
description