CHAP. V.

Treasury of
Minyas.

Proof of the antiquity of domes in architecture.

resembles, both as to its size and form, the immense slab that covers the portal of the Tomb of Agamemnon at Mycena: There can be no doubt but that this ruin corresponds with the account given by Pausanias of the TREASURY OF MINYAS, Enough yet remains to prove that the covering was a dome; and the description given of it by that author' will also confirm this observation. Therefore they, who, of late years, have disputed the existence of domes in very antient architecture, maintaining that the Tomb of Agamemnon, being constructed by horizontal projections of stone, does not constitute what may properly be considered as a dome, will find a stumbling-block in the Treasury of Minyas. It is true that this building was considered, even by the Antients themselves, as one of the wonders of the world'; equally worthy of admiration with the Walls of Tiryns, and the Pyramids of Egypt. In a different direction from the monastery, going towards the east, at a short distance, we found a tumulus, with several pieces of marble lying near it ; and this may be the Tomb of Minyas also noticed by Pausanias, and remarkably distinguished, in his description of Orchomenus, from the Treasury of that monarch', or we should have considered the latter as being his magnificent sepulchre.

(1) Λίθου μὲν εἴργασται, σχῆμα δὲ περιφερές ἐστιν αὐτῷ, κορυφὴ δὲ οὐκ ἐς ἄγαν ὀξὺ ἀνηγμένη, τὸν δὲ ἀνωτάτω τῶν λίθων φασὶν ἁρμονίαν παντὶ εἶναι τῷ oikodoμnuari. Pausan. Boot. c. 38. p. 786. ed. Kuhnii.

(2) Ibid. c. 36. p. 783. and in c. 38, he says, Onoavpòs dè ó Mivvov lavμa rõv ἐν τῇ Ἑλλάδι ἂν καὶ τῶν ἑτέρωθι οὐδενὸς ὕστερον, πεποίηται τρόπον τοιόνδε. (3) Ibid. c. 36. p. 783.

(4) It is after giving a description of the Treasury, that Pausanias adds, Tápor dè Μινύου τε καὶ Ἡσιόδου. cap. 38. p. 786.

sepulchre. Near to this tomb, but a little farther on, are
the ruins of a Greek chapel, built with materials that once
served to ornament the sepulchre. Here we found part of
an inscription, but in too imperfect a state to afford any in-
formation. However, as the most glimmering ray respecting
a place of such celebrity will be eagerly sought for by every
learned reader, we shall insert even this fragment. It is
part of a decree. In the sixth line is dedoyen ru dauv, which is
δέδοχθη το δαμυ,
the common Baotian form of δέδοχθαι τῷ δαμῷ. In the
seventh line, τῶν πολιτάων is evident for τῶν πολίτων. In the
ninth line, κατασκευάττη is put for κατασκευάζει; the Boeotians
using for (, as in gάrra for ogάw; and ŋ for . In the
tenth line, ἐν τυ ἱαου is properly put for ἐν τῷ ἱερῷ.

1. ΔΑΜΟΤΟΙΔΑΟΑΡΧΟΝΤΟΣ

n

CHAP. V.

Orchomenus.

There are some remains of the Acropolis of ORCHOMENUS; Acropolis of a part of the walls and of the mural turrets are still visible. The village of Screpú consists, besides the monastery, only of a few Greek cottages; but the condition of the peasants is favourable: their bread is good; and their olives afford

Condition of inhabitants.

the present

VOL. IV.

CHAP. V.

Superstition respecting certain stones.

Return to
Lebadéa.

them a delicious food, whether fresh or salted. It cannot, however, be a healthy place of residence in the summer, because the land is universally swampy, and contains pools of stagnant water. The children wear small stones about their necks, which are found here, and are superstitiously regarded: for their parents would not allow them to be sold, or even taken off to be examined. Of this nature, perhaps, were the stones mentioned by Pausanias as a principal object of veneration among the Orchomenians, who believed them to have fallen from heaven': unless indeed, as some are inclined to believe, substances that had really fallen from the atmosphere were preserved in this city, and, as at Egos Potamos, worshipped by the inhabitants. That the old superstitions of Greece are by no means altogether eradicated, must be evident to every traveller who visits the country. As we returned in the evening to LEBADEA, the secretary of the Archon, considered a man of education among the Greeks of that city,-speaking of the tops of the mountains, and particularly of Parnassus, which he perceived attracted our attention continually towards it,-said in Italian, “It is there that the old Gods (antichi Dei) have resided, ever since they were driven from the plains:"-and observing that we were amused by his observation, he added, with great seriousness, "They did strange things in this country: those old Gods are not fit subjects for laughter."

(1) Τὰς μὲν δὴ πέτρας σέβουσί τε μάλιστα, καὶ τῷ Ετεοκλεῖ φασὶν αὐτὰς arotiv èk Toù oйparov. Pausan. Boot. c. 38. p. 786. ed. Kuhnii.

The author sets out for Delphi-View of Parnassus-Circular Monument -Defile of Schiste-Situation of Crissa-Castri-Present condition of Delphi-its antiquities and natural curiosities-Inscriptions at St. Nicholo-Fountain Castalius-Gorgon-Plants-Discovery of the ; Corycian Cave-Eastern Gate of the city-Gymnasium-Inscriptions there-Stadium-Monastery of Elias-Caverns-Plan of DelphiProbable Site of the Temple of Apollo-Other Inscriptions-Cause of the wretched state of Castri-Medals.

ON

CHAP. VI.

Delphi.

N the morning of December the 14th, we left LEBADÉA ; and proceeded in a N.w. direction, across an undulating Journey to district, towards PARNASSUS; keeping the road to DELPHI, now called Castri. After journeying three hours, having passed

over

CHAP. VI.

View of
Parnassus.

over a ridge of hills, the antient boundary between PHOсIS and BœOTIA, previous to our descent into a valley that reaches quite up to the base of Parnassus, we enjoyed a glorious prospect of that mountain; which the author has vainly endeavoured to represent by the annexed Plate. They who have beheld Snowdon from Anglesea will have anticipated this scene by a miniature representation: and as it brought to our recollection the sublime Druidical Chorus of Mason's Caractacus, we were ready at every instant to exclaim,

Hear, thou king of mountains, hear!" It was at this time almost without a cloud; its upmost ridges being white with snow: below these, appeared a wide expanse of naked and rugged rocks, exhibiting hues of silvery grey, peculiar to Parnassus: still lower, towards the base, and in the sheltered recesses of the valley, were trees, dispersed or collected into thickets and tufted groves; presenting altogether such a region of bold and dignified scenery-of varied and broken eminences, of wilderness, and woodland, and pasture-as we have seldom seen. Among the thickets we saw the Arbutus, and Myrtle, and Vallonia Oak, flourishing luxuriantly; and we recognised a sort of tree that we had first observed in going up Mount Gargarus, in Troas; which we had called the Ivory Wood of Ida; because, whenever we attempted to cut it, we found it to be so hard and brittle, that it was like making an incision into a piece of ivory. It is at first very heavy; but after it has been kept a short time, it loses both its weight and strength, and breaks like a dried willow. We do not know its botanical name; having lost the specimens that we collected during its fructification.

After