CHAP. V.

procession from the palace to the citadel, following the body of the person he had murdered so long before. It was then the people of Petersburg beheld an interesting spectacle of retribution. One of them, an eye-witness of the whole scene, related it to me. The bodies were drawn upon low chariots by horses. Immediately after the coffin of Peter the Third, and close to it, walked, with slow and faltering steps, his assassin Orlof, having his eyes fixed on the ground, his hands folded, and his face pale as death. Next to Orlof walked the Emperor, certainly manifesting, by this sublime though mysterious sacrifice to the manes of his father, an action worthy of a greater character. The ceremony ended, Orlof was ordered to quit the empire; and lately was travelling in Germany, and in the South of Europe.

Generous Conduct of a Citizen-Prince turned Pawnbroker-Picture Dealers-State of Medicine-Manners of the People-Opinions entertained of the English -Relative Condition of Slaves and their Lords-Noble Behaviour of Count Golovkin's Peasants-Servants of the Nobility -Theft committed by a Party of the Nobles-Convent of the New Jerusalem - New Prohibitions - Public Censors- Convent of the Trinity-Church of St. Basil-Ivan Basilovich-Tuberville's Letters.

In England, we hear of persons sent to Siberia as a very severe punishment, and entertain very erroneous notions concerning the state of exiles in that country. To a Russian nobleman the sentence of exile can hardly imply punishment.

The

CHAP. VI.

State of Exiles in Siberia.

CHAP. VI.

Tobolski.

The consequence of their journey is very often an amelioration of their understanding and their hearts. They have no particular attachment to their country; none of that maladie du pays, which sickens the soul of an Englishman in banishment. They are bound by no strong ties of affection to their families; neither have they any friendship worth preserving. Tobolski, from the number and rank of the exiled, is become a large and populous city, full of shops and society, with theatres and elegant assemblies of amusement. Its inhabitants, above two thousand versts from Moscow, have booksellers, masquerades, French hotels, and French wines, with the porter and beer of England. Those who have resided there, either as officers on duty, as travellers, or as exiles, give the highest accounts of its gaiety and population. An officer of considerable rank in the Russian service told me, he would rather have the half of his pay and live at Tobolski, than the whole of it in residence at Petersburg. Many who have been ordered home have wished and sought to return thither. This is no subject of wonder. Tobolski is admirably adapted to the Russian taste. According to Gmelin, it is a very temple of Bacchus and Indolence. Provisions were so cheap when he was there, in the middle of the last century, that a person might maintain himself for ten roubles a year; not two pounds of our money. His account of the Carnival and Easter festival' proves there was not much difference between the

(1) "Les gens les plus considérables se rendoient visite et se donnoient des divertissemens. Quant au peuple il étoit comme fou: ce n'étoit jour et nuit que promenades, cris, tumultes, batteries. Il étoit difficile d'aller dans les rues, tant il y avoit d'hommes, de femmes, de bêtes, et de traîneaux." Voyage en Sibérie, traduit par Keralio,

tom. I. p. 53.

1

"On

the state of society in Tobolski and in Moscow at that time; and there is much less at present.

A circumstance occurred during my abode in Moscow, attended by a trait of so much generosity in a Russian, that I conceive it deserves to be related. On Wednesday the seventh of May, the sub-governor received an order for his exile to Siberia. No reason whatever was assigned for the displeasure of the Emperor; no offence was alleged. The whole city flocked to take leave of him, for he was much beloved; and dangerous as such a testimony of their affection might prove, yet they crowded to his house, and considered him as a man sacrificed to the caprice of a tyrant. Among others, came an humble citizen, and demanded admission. It was granted. "You are going to leave us," said he, " and may not have time to settle your affairs. Do you not want money? I come as your banker.” "I have need of some," said the "said the governor, " but it is much more than you can furnish.' "How much?" 66 Twenty-five thousand roubles!" The honest fellow withdrew, and speedily returning with notes to the amount of the sum specified, placed them on the table, carefully counting them over, then made his bow, and retired.

Acquaintance with Camporesi the architect procured me admission at the house of Prince Trubetzkoi, a dealer in minerals, pictures, hosiery, hats, cutlery, antiquities, in short,

all

CHAP. VI.

Generous
Conduct of

a Citizen.

Prince turned
Pawnbroker.

"On passe gaiment les fêtes de Pâques à recevoir et faire des visites. Le peuple s'amusa à sa manière; ce dont il s'occupa le plus fut le commerce des filles publiques qui ne sont pas rares à Tobolsk. Je n'avois vû nulle part tant de gens sans nez

que j'en vis ici." Ibid. p. 67.

CHAP. VI.

Picture

Dealers.

all the furniture of shops and museums. Having squandered
away his fortune, he picked up a livelihood by selling, for
himself and others, whatever came in his way. His house,
like a pawnbroker's shop, exhibited one general magazine,
occupying several rooms. A prince presiding over it,
and practising all the artifices of the meanest trades-
man, was a spectacle perfectly novel.
perfectly novel. Any thing might
be bought of his highness, from a pair of bellows to
a picture by Claude Lorraine. In the same room might
be seen handkerchiefs, stockings, artificial flowers, fans,
Cologne water, soap, pomatum, prints, books, guns, pistols,
minerals, jewellery, harness, saddles, bridles, pipes, second-
hand clothes, swords, stuffed birds, bronzes, buckles, buttons,
snuff-boxes, wigs, watches, boots, and shoes. My house,"
said he, as we entered, " and all it contains, is at your service,
or any one's else who will buy it! I will sell you the house
for a single rouble, provided you will pay me also a rouble
for each article of its furniture." While we bargained with
his highness, Prince L. sent a note, which he read aloud.
It was to borrow money. "Here's a man," said Prince
Trubetzkoi, " with a million of roubles in his drawing-room,
sends to me for forty-five, to pay his expences into the
country. You see how we go on in Russia!"

The number of pictures in Moscow is really astonishing. There are four or five eminent dealers, who have large collections. The palaces of the nobles are many of them filled, and there is not one of their owners unwilling to sell any picture they possess. It seems as if all Europe had been ransacked to supply such collections. At first view, a room

adorned