CHAP. V.

rather than the pleasure of reading books, has been the reason of their forming those, sumptuous collections, the booksellers receive orders to a very large amount'. When a Russian nobleman reads, which is very rare, it is commonly a novel; either some licentious trash in French, or some English romance translated into that language. Of the latter, the Italian of Mrs. Radcliffe has been better done than any other; because, representing customs which are not absolutely local, it admits of easier transition into any other European tongue. But when they attempt to translate Tom Jones, The Vicar of Wakefield, or any of those inimitable original pictures of English manners, the effect is ridiculous beyond description. Squire Western becomes a French Philosopher, and Goldsmith's Primrose a Fleur de Lis.

Books of real literary reputation are not to be obtained either in Petersburg or Moscow. Productions of other days, which from their importance in science have become rare, are never to be found. Costly and frivolous volumes, sumptuously bound, and most gorgeously decorated, constitute the precious part of a library, in Russian estimation. Gaudy French editions of Fontenelle, of Marmontel, of Italian sonneteers, with English folios of butterflies, shells, and flowers; editions by Baskerville, Bensley, and Bulmer, with hot-pressed and wire-wove paper; in short, the toys rather than the instruments of science, attract the notice of all the Russian amateurs. A magnificent library in Russia, on which immense sums have

(1) These orders are sometimes given in the style related of one of the late Empress's favourites, who sent for a bookseller, and said, "Fit me up a handsome library: little books above, and great ones below.”

a

have been expended, will be found to contain very little of
useful literature. In vain, among their stately collections,
smelling like a tannery of the leather which bears their name,
may we seek for classic authors, historians, law-givers,
and poets.
A copy of the Encyclopædia, placed more for
ostentation than for use, may perhaps, in a solitary instance
or two, greet the eye, as the only estimable work throughout
their gilded shelves.

After London and Constantinople, Moscow is doubtless
the most remarkable city in Europe. A stranger, passing
rapidly through, might pronounce it the dullest, dirtiest, and
most uninteresting city in the world; while another, having
resided there, would affirm, that it had rather the character of
great commercial and wealthy metropolis of a vast and
powerful empire. If the grandeur and riches of the inha-
bitants are to be estimated by the number of equipages, and
the number of horses attached to each, Moscow would excel
in splendour all the cities of the globe. There is hardly an
individual, above the rank of plebeian, who would be seen
without four horses to his carriage; and the generality have
six.
But the manner in which this pomp is displayed, is
a perfect burlesque upon stateliness. A couple of ragged boys
placed as postillions, before a coachman, in such sheep's
hides as are worn by the peasants in the woods; and behind
the carriage are stationed a couple of lackeys, more tawdry,
but not less ludicrous than their drivers. To give all this
greater effect, the traces of the harness are so long, that it
requires considerable management to preserve the horses
from being entangled, whenever they turn the corner of

are

CHAP. V.

CHAP. V.

Costume.

Amusements,

a street, or make a halt. Notwithstanding this, no stranger, however he may deride its absurdity, will venture to visit the nobles, if he wishes for their notice, without four horses to his chariot, a ragged coachman and postillion, and a parade of equipage that must excite his laughter in proportion as it ensures their countenance and approbation.

The wives of the tradesmen, during the season of their festivals, are seen driving about in droskis, with riches upon their persons sufficient to purchase a peerage. Caps made of matted work of pearls, with Turkish and Persian shawls, and diamond ear-rings; preserving, at the same time, always the national costume, however costly their apparel. This costume is remarkably graceful when the shawl is worn, and as much otherwise when it is not. The shawl covers the head, and falls in thin folds over the shoulders, reaching almost to the feet. The celebrated Pallas presented me with a drawing representing the wife of a Russian tradesman, with the old duenna, or nurse, which is found in almost every family. It was executed by his artist, Geisler. I have an inducement to engrave it, which cannot be resisted. With that good humour which always characterizes him, finding the women unwilling to have their figures delineated, he caused Mrs. Pallas to assume the dress of the young wife, and put on his own person the habit of the duenna; thus affording a scenic representation, in which the persons of the drama, though strongly caricatured, are, the Professor and his wife.

The amusements of the people are those of children; that is to say, of English children; for in Paris and Naples I have witnessed similar amusements, in which grave senators and

statesmen

statesmen mounted wooden horses, round-abouts, and ups-
and-downs, with the inhabitants of those cities. It will be
said the English are a grave people. Be it so: but I believe
I could assign a better reason for the want of such infantine
sports at their wakes and fairs. Certainly there is no part of
our island in which men of forty and fifty years of age would
be seen riding on a wooden horse, or swinging about in
a vaulting chair.
Three Russians at a time will squeeze
themselves into one, and, as they are whirled round, scream
for joy, like infants tossed in the nurse's arms!. I remember
seeing the King of the Two Sicilies, joining, with his principal
courtiers, in a similar amusement.

CHAP. V.

Tverschaia.

Entering by the Gate of the Resurrection, which forms the Chapel of the eastern extremity of the Tverschaia, one of the principal streets in Moscow, there is a small chapel, or chamber, open to the street; before which, at all hours of the day, a mob is seen assembled, crossing and prostrating themselves. I had the curiosity to penetrate this host of devotees, and to enter the sanctuary. There I found an old man with a long beard busy in selling candles to the numerous visitants, who, immediately after buying them, placed them before a picture of the Virgin.

irgin. The little chapel was filled with a variety of pictures of Saints and Martyrs: but there were two of the Virgin with the Infant, larger than the rest, and placed facing the street; one of which is said to have been brought hither by an angel, which causes the extraordinary devotion paid to that picture in particular; although there are many such pictures in other

(1) See the engraving, from a drawing by Guarenghi of Petersburg.

parts

CHAP. V.

parts of Moscow, with the same reputation of a miraculous transportation. The particular picture to which reference is now made, was framed in silver, set round with gems, true or false, of various magnitudes. It has great celebrity, from the numberless miracles. it has wrought, in healing the sick, restoring sight to the blind, and showering down favours of all kinds upon its worshippers. Now, supposing only four persons present themselves before this image, as it is called, in the compass of a single minute, (and sometimes fifty in the same instant may be observed opposite the shrine,) no less a number than two thousand eight hundred and eighty persons will be found to visit it in the short space of twelve hours. It would be indeed a miracle, if, out of this number, one or two did not occasionally experience relief, either from sickness of body, or sorrow, or some pleasing accidental change in circumstances: and, whenever this happens, if only once in thirty days, which would be one out of eighty-six thousand four hundred persons, not reckoning nightly visitants, the noise of it is circulated far and wide, the story itself exaggerated, and the throng of votaries increased. Upon such ground an ideot might be the occasion of as vast a superstructure of ignorance and credulity as any which even Russia has witnessed. The picture of a Saint found accidentally in the street, human bones dug up in a forest, a dream, any casual and rude representation of a cross, in straws which have fallen together at the meeting of roads, or a lusus naturæ, the colours of a pied horse, veins in a piece of flint or marble, in short, whatever represents, or is supposed to represent, any object in their prodigious catalogue of superstition, might

occasion