CHAP. XV. place was covered with a very fine gravel, composed of shells and sand. Swarms of toads and small serpents were crawling or running towards the sea; the water, though unwholesome, being so little impregnated with salt, that the inhabitants use it for drinking, and for all culinary

Margaritovskaia.

purposes.

Proceeding towards the interior, the view is bounded by steppes, as on the European side, covered with tall luxuriant plants. Although the distance is small which conveys the traveller from Europe to Asia, yet the variety of new objects, which almost immediately present themselves, cannot be unobserved. Beetles of a gigantic size, locusts, various coloured insects, large green lizards, some of which are twelve inches in length, all manifest a change. Having brought a letter to a Greek gentleman, whose commercial speculations, particularly in the fishery, had induced him to adopt a residence in these parts, we found him at Margaritovskaia, another small village four miles from Chumburskaia, and caused our carriage to be conveyed to his house. He was settled in a small colony of his own countrymen, the neatness of whose cottages plainly distinguished them from all the other inhabitants of that country. "I have retired to this place," said he, "to be somewhat removed from the shore; as the natives along the coast are not to be trusted." He gave us a supper of rice, milk, and pancakes, according to the custom of his country; and we should have felt comfortable in his little dwelling, had it not been for the disgusting appearance of toads, which continually entered, crawling about the floor. Reptiles, vermin, bad air, bad water, and bad people, are

among

among the plagues which distinguish Oriental territories; but the small district we traversed in this part of Asia, from the mouths of the Don to those of the Kuban, may vie in horrors with any other I have since seen. The roads at this season of the year (July) were certainly excellent, and the post very well supplied; but they were said to be full of danger, and certainly characterized by every unwholesome and . filthy accompaniment.

CHAP. XV.

CHAP. XVI.

CIRCASSIA.

Relays for Horses-River Ae-Cossacks of the Black Sea-Cause of their Migration-How distinguished from Don Cossacks-and from Russians-Wild Fowl-Singular Species of Mole-Cherubinovskoy-Plants-Rate of Travelling-Tumuli-Stragglers from the Army-View of the Caucasian Mountains-Capital of the TCHERNOMORSKI Manners of the People-their Dress and External Appearance-Visit from the Ataman-Causes of the War in Circassia-Passage of the Kuban-Advance of the Cossack Army -Arrival of the Pacha of Anapa-Ceremony of concluding the Peace-Circassian Princes-Peasants of Circassia-Dances of the Circassians-Language-LESGI-Remarkable Instance of Bravery in a Circassian-Circassian Women-Commerce with the Tchernomorski-Skill in Horsemanship-State of Travelling in Caucasus.

THE whole territory from the Sea of Azof to the Kuban, and thence following the course of that river towards its

embou

embouchure, is a continual desert, more desolate than the steppes on the European side of the Mæotis, in which a few huts, rudely constructed of reeds and narrow flags, and stationed at certain distances, serve to supply horses for the post. Such wretched hovels offer neither accommodation nor food. They are often destitute even of any thatched covering as a roof, and supply merely an enclosure, in which the horses remain their stated time, standing in mud or dung. The persons who have the care of them make their appearance, when the traveller arrives, from a hole in the ground; having burrowed, and formed a little subterraneous cave, in which they live, like the marmots, moles, and other tenants of the wilderness 1.

CHAP. XVI.

Relays for

Horses.

We left Margaritovskoy on the fifth of July, admiring the River Ae. fine view that was presented of the Sea of Azof, and travelled towards the AE, one of the several rivers mentioned by Ptolemy, in this part of Asiatic Sarmatia, and which it is difficult to identify with any of the antient names enumerated by him. Ae, in the Tartar language, signifies good; and the name is said to have been applied to the river, because its banks afford a favourable pasture for sheep; but the water is brackish, and impregnated with salt.

2

During the first thirty-six versts of this day's journey, we found Grecian or Malo-Russian inhabitants. Their number in this district does not exceed seven hundred persons; yet a full proof of their industry and superior importance, as tenants of the

land,

(1) The slight sketch, engraved as a Vignette to this Chapter, will serve to give a very correct representation of these relays.

(2) Twenty-four English miles.

Y r

CHAP. XVI.

Cossacks of the
Black Sea.

Cause of their
Migration.

land, is offered in the fact of their affording to their landlord an average payment of no less a sum, annually than ten thousand roubles. The boundary of their little territory is formed by the river Ae towards the South, and the Sea of Azof to the North. The river Ae separates them from a very different and very extraordinary race of men, whose history and country we are now prepared to consider; namely, the TCHernomorski, or Cossacks of the Black Sea; more dreadful tales of whom are told, to intimidate travellers, than even the misrepresentations circulated in Russia concerning their brethren, the Cossacks of the Don. We had been directed to augment our escort, and in consequence were always preceded by a troop of armed Cossack cavalry. It is true, the figures of those who composed the body of our own guard did not appear very conciliating; but we had never reason to complain either of their conduct or of their honesty.

The Tchernomorski are a brave, but rude and warlike people; possessing little of the refinement of civilized society, although much inward goodness of heart; and they are ready to shew the greatest hospitality to strangers who solicit their aid. Their original appellation was ZAPOROGZTZSI, according to the most exact orthography given to me by Mr. Kovalensky of Taganrock; a term alluding to their former situation beyond the cataracts" of the Dnieper, from the banks of which river they were removed, by the late Empress Catharine, to those of the Kuban, in order to repel the incursions of the Circassians and Tartars from the Turkish frontier. Their removal was originally planned by Potemkin, but did not take place until about nine years previous to our arrival in the

66

country.