CHAP. XI. Kazinskoy some of his comrades. The poor fellow was more an object of pity than resentment, and we began to intercede for his pardon: but thè governor insisted upon making an example of him; and they led him away, sulky, and, as it seemed, nothing loth, to be flogged. As he went, he still vowed revenge; declaring, that he was not alone in the business; for that fifteen of his confederates had made an oath to be revenged, not only upon the girl, but upon all her family, for her inconstancy to him. The governor provided us with a powerful escort; and early in the morning we continued our journey. The roads have been all changed, since Gmelin, and other travellers,. visited this part of Russia. We proceeded from Paulovskoy to Kazinskoy Chutor, a village inhabited by Malo-Russians and Russians mingled together. The distinction between the two people might be made without the smallest inquiry, from the striking contrast between filth and cleanliness. In the stable of the post-house we found about twenty horses, kept with a degree of order and neatness which would have done credit to any nobleman's stud in Britain. The house of the poor superintendant villager was equally admirable: every thing appeared clean and decent: there was no litter; nor was any thing out of its place. It was quite a new thing to us, to hesitate whether we hould clean our boots before walking into an apartment, on the floor of which I would rather have dined than on the table of any Russian prince. This village is situated in the most wild and open steppes, among the short herbage of which we noticed the landtortoise. Its flesh is esteemed a great delicacy; as it is in the Archipelago, like had and CHAP. XI. Momon. Archipelago, and in all Turkish cities. Boat-loads of them are carried from the Greek Isles to the markets of Constantinople. After leaving Kazinskoy, we passed through several very large villages, scattered over valleys, each of which appeared to consist rather of several hamlets than of one, and arrived at Nizney Momon. Nothing worth observation occurred, except Nizney the plants we collected1. The heat was intense. The country that before described. We found our vinegar, which been recommended to us at Moscow, to be a pleasing salutary ingredient in bad water; and a most delicious solace, when exposed to the scorching rays of the sun, with parced lips, and mouths full of dust. It was impossible to resis the temptation of drinking it without any admixture of Water; and to the practice of doing so, may be attributed, perhaps, the weak state of health into which I afterwards fell. We considered it, at this time, the most valuable part of our baggage; and afterwards, in Kuban Tartary, derived from it the only means of sustaining the fatigue and languor caused by the heat of the climate and bad air. the The next place we came to was Dobrinka: and here, for first time, we found an establishment of Cossacks; although but few appeared, and even these mixed with Malo-Russians. The church was new, a large and handsome white building, erected by the Emperor Paul. the Others of same nature appeared in most of the neighbouring villages. Dobrinka. (1) Of these, some are known in our country; viz. the Tragopogon pratense, or Goat's-beard, and Potentilla argentea. Those more rare are, the Gladiolus imbricatus, which is not found even in our botanic gardens; Astragalus Onobrychis, Hesperis anatronalis, and Campanula Sibirica. We observed also a new species of Lychnis. CHAP. XI. Metscha. Kasankaia, first Stanitza of the Don Cossacks. villages. That of Dobrinka makes a conspicuous appearance several miles before the traveller reaches it. If Happiness could be found under the Russian government, it might be said to dwell in Dobrinka; a peaceable and pleasant spot, full of neat little white cottages, tenanted by a healthy, and apparently contented, society. They live in the greatest tranquillity, removed from all the spies, tax-gatherers, police officers, and other despots of the country. We were received into one of the court-yards, which they all have before their houses, with a hearty welcome and smiling countenances, very different from the lowering brows, and contracted suspicious eyes, to which we had been so often accustomed. At sun-set, all the cows belonging to the inhabitants came, in one large troop, lowing into the village. No driver was necessary; for, as the herd entered, they separated into parties, and retired of their own accord to their respective owners, in order to be milked. The Malo-Russians, with their numerous families, were seated on the ground, in circles before their neat little habitations, eating their supper; and, being all happy and merry together, offered a picture of contentment and peace not often found within Russian territories'. About two in the afternoon of the next day, having been detained for want of horses at Metscha, we arrived at KAsanKAIA, one of the largest Stanitzas of the Don Cossacks, and the first within their territory. As I am now entering upon the description of a very interesting part of our journey, I shall (1) We observed here a plant which grows on the Hills near Cambridge, the Hedysarum Onobrychis. I shall be particularly careful to note whatever observations may occur. They relate to a country very little visited, and, on that account, very little known; where every thing is interesting, because every thing presents what has not been seen before. The independent mode of life of the people; their indolence at home; their activity in war; their remote situation with regard to the rest of Europe; the rank they hold in the great scale of society; all require consideration. CHAP. XI. CHAP. XII. Appearance of the Cossacks at Kasankaia. TERRITORY OF THE DON COSSACKS. River Appearance of the Cossacks at Kasankaia-House of the Ataman- THERE is something extremely martial, and even intimidating, majestic |