St. Peter's feldom anfwers the expectation of the traveller on his firft entering it; but infenfibly enlarges itself on all fides, and every moment improves on the eye. The proportions are so nicely obferved, that nothing appears diftinguished from the reft a beautiful symmetry is its diftinguishing character. The moft aftonishing thing, however, in this mighty fabric, is its cupola. It is not easy to conceive a more glorious effect in architecture than what is feen in ftanding under the dome. In looking upwards, the fpacious hollow fills the mind with awe, and the vifta on each fide is the most beautiful on which the eye can reft. Having furveyed this dome, I went to fee the Rotunda. This church is fo much changed from the ancient Pantheon, that fome have been inclined to think it is not the fame; but Fontana has fhewn how the ancient figure and ornaments of the Pantheon have been changed into the prefent form. The profeffed admirers of antiquity find abundance of chimerical beauties in this ftructure, which it is probable never entered into the contemplation of the architects themfelves. In paffing from Rome to Naples, nothing ftruck me fo much as the beauty of the country, and the extreme poverty of the inhabitants. The prefent defolation of Italy is indeed furprising, when we confider its immenfe population under the Roman empire; nor is it easy to conceive how fuch a fertile foil could be changed to what it now is. In the papal territories this defolation is moft eminently confpicuous; and though a fuperficial reafoner would draw the contrary conclufions, an ecclefiaftical government is, certainly, of all others, moft unfriendly to improvement. Hereditary fucceffion fucceffion gives a kind of intereft in a country; but where there is only a life intereft, the ftudy of every one is, to make the best of the prefent moment, and to enrich his private connections at the expence of the public. Add to this, a religion unfriendly to population, by encouraging fo many of both fexes in celibacy, and what is as bad, in idleness and impofture, by which the mass of the people are robbed,without the least return of com penfating utility or advantage. The greatest pleasure I received in my journey from Rome to Naples was, in obferving the fields, towns, and rivers, so often described by the claffical authors, and which have been the fcene of fo many illuftrious actions. In my way I crofled the Liris and Vulturnus, now the Gorigliano and Vultorno. The first of thofe rivers has been celebrated for its smoothness, as the other has for its rapidity and noise. Where the smooth streams of Liriş stray, and again: The rough Vulturnus, furious in its courfe, The ruins of Anxur and Capua, mark out the pleasant fituation of thofe towns. The first occupied the fite of the prefent Terracina; and by reafon of the breezes that came off the fea, and the height of its fituation, was a favourite fummer retirement of the ancient Romans, Horace fays, Ол On the cool fhore, near Baia's gentle feats, Where filver lakes, with verdant shadows crown'd, On my arrival at Naples, I was employed for fome days in seeing public proceffions, which are always very magnificent in the Holy Week. It would be tedious to give an account of the feveral representations of our Saviour's death and refurrection, of the figures of himself, the bleffed virgin and the apoftles, which are displayed on this folemnity, with the cruel penances that many inflict on themselves, and the multitude of attendant ceremonies. I twice faw the blood of St. Januarius expofed, which, it is pretended, becomes liquid at the approach of the faint's head; but I confess I am fo far from confidering this as a real miracle, that I think it is the moft bungling deception I ever faw. Yet this makes as great a noife as any in the Romish church. Though I had lived fome time in Catholic countries, I was surprised to fee many inftances of fuperftition at Naples, which are not thought of in France. In proportion as the principles of the Proteftant religion are better known, or an intercourse with its profeffors is more general, the Catholics recover from their ignorance. Hence the French are more enlightened than the Italians, and the Italians than the Spaniards. I fhall avoid entering into a particular defcription of the grandeur of the city of Naples, the magnificence of its churches and convents, the beauty of its pavements, the multitude of its inhabitants, and the charms of its fituation. 1 Others Others have dwelt on these topics till repetition would be irksome. Statues, pictures, and pieces of antiquity are lefs common at Naples than might be expected in fuch a great and ancient city *; because whatever was moft curious of this nature was fent by the viceroys into Spain. Two of their fineft modern ftatues are thofe of Apollo and Minerva, placed on each fide of Sannazarius' Tomb. On the front of this monument, which is compofed of marble, Neptune is reprefented in bafs relief among the fatyrs, to fhew that the poet was the inventor of Pifcatory Eclogues. There are feveral delightful profpects about this city, particularly from fome of the convents, which generally occupy fuch fpots as have the moft picturefque views. The bay is extremely beautiful: it is almost circular, and about thirty miles in diameter. In the bofom of this bay lies Naples, perhaps the moft pleasant city in the world, yet the inhabitants are miferably poor. Induftry dies away, while the iron-hand of oppreffion is held up. About eight miles from Naples is a noble scene of antiquities. What is called Virgil's Tomb, first prefents itself. This poet was certainly buried near this city; but I think it equally certain, that his tomb ftood on the other fide, towards Vefuvius t. By this tomb is the entrance into the Grotto of The difcovery of the ancient city of Herculaneum has brought to light fuch a ftore of antiquities, that Naples no longer deferves the reflection of Addifon. † Authors are much divided on this fubject. Why should not the popular opinion, fupported by uninterrupted tradition, be right? Paufilypo, Paufilypo, which the common people of Naples believe to have been formed by the magic of Virgil; and they have a more exalted opinion of him for having formed the grotto, than for having composed the Æneid. To form a juft idea of this place, it is neceffary to imagine a vaft rock undermined, with a highway paffing through it, nearly as long and as broad as the Mall in St. James's Park. This fubterraneous paffage is much improved fince Seneca gave fuch an unfavourable account of it. The entry at both ends is higher than in the centre, to admit more light; and, near the middle, are two large funnels bored through the roof, to let in both fresh air and light. It feems probable that this was originally a quarry of ftones, and the inhabitants finding it was convertible to a double purpose, afterwards hewed it into its prefent form. The fame defign was alfo likely to be the origin of the Sybil's grotto, from the prodigious multitude of palaces that ftood in its neighbourhood. About five miles from the grottos, lie the remains of Puteoli and Baia, in a fine air and a delightful fituation. The furrounding country, by reason of its vaft caverns and fubterraneous fires, has been miferably torn in pieces by earthquakes, fo that the whole face of nature is changed. Even the fea has ufurped on the land; and in a calm day, palaces may be seen at the bottom of the wa ter. The Lucrine Lake is only a puddle, in comparifon of what it once was. The Lake of Avernus, once fo noted for its poifonous ftreams, is now plentifully stocked with fish and fowl. Mount VOL. XII. E Gaurus, |