CHAP. VI: IV. The spacious plain lying on the north-eastern side of the Mender, and watered by the Callifat Osmack, is the Simoïsian; and that stream the Simoïs. Here were signalized all the principal events of the Trojan War. V. The Ruins of Palaio Callifat are those of the Ilium of Strabo. Eastward is the Throsmos, or Mound of the Plain. VI. The Hill near Tchiblack, if it be not the Callicolone, may possibly mark the site of the Village of the Ileans, mentioned by Strabo, where antient Ilium stood. VII. Udjek Tépe is the Tomb of Eysetes. The other tombs mentioned by Strabo as at Sigeum, are all in the situation he describes. The Tomb of Protesilaus also still exists, on the European side of the mouth of the Hellespont. VIII. The springs of Bonarbashy may possibly have been the AOIAI пHIAJ of Homer; but they are not sources of the Scamander. They are, moreover, warm springs. IX. The source of the Seamander is in Gargarus, now called Kasdaghy, the highest mountain of all the Idæan Chain. X. The Altars of Jupiter, mentioned by Homer, and by Eschylus, were on the hill called Küchûnlû Tepe, at the foot of Gargarus; where the ruins of the temple now remain. XI. Palæ Scepsis is yet recognised in the appellation Esky Skúpshu. XII. Æné is the Aineia of Strabo; and Æné Tépe, perhaps, the Tomb of Eneas. XIII. The extremity of the Adramyttian Gulph inclines round the ridge of Gargarus, towards the north-east; so that the circumstance of Xerxes having this mountain upon his left, in his march from Antandrus to Abydus, is thereby explained. XIV. Gargarus affords a view, not only of all the Plain of Troy, but of all the district of Troas, and a very considerable portion of the rest of Asia Minor. CHAPTER VII. FROM THE HELLESPONT TO RHODES. Transactions at the Dardanelles-Public Sports-Inscriptions-Voyage down the Hellespont-Tenedos-Lectum Promontory-Lesbos--Erythræan Straits-Chios-Straits of Samos-Burning Vapour-View of Patmos and the Cyclades Pirates-Cos-Plane Tree-Inscriptions---Fountain of Hippocrates-Greek Manuscripts-Beautiful piece of Antient Sculpture-Voyage from Cos to Rhodes Ruins of Cnidus-visited by Morritt-and by Walpole-Carpathian Isles-Rhodes. Transactions E were detained some time at the Dardanelles, wait- CHAP. VIL ing for the vessels from Constantinople: this came at last, so deeply laden with stores, for the supply of our army at the Dardain Egypt, that we were almost afraid to venture on board. nelles. She had the name of The Taurida, and was literally nothing more than a covered boat. Mercantile speculations make bold adventurers. Few persons would have volunteered an expedition across the Mediterranean in such a bark; but our good captain comforted us with the assurance, that Columbus sailed across an unknown ocean in a skiff of less promise. He had cast anchor higher up the Straits, towards the Sea of Marmora, where vessels from Constantinople lie secure from all winds, and find better ground. There is no good anchorage at the Dardanelles. Captain Castle had fitted up a small apartment in the stern, to serve as a Cabin; and had placed one enormous gun in the prow, to intimidate pirates; observing dryly to us, as we surveyed it, that we should be lucky if it did not carry the gib-boom under water, in rough weather. It was amusing to notice the sort of speculation, which occupied not only the hold, but every part of the vessel, where it was possible to cram an article of food or merchandize. CHAP. VII. Barrels of Adrianople tongues, candles, tea sugar, cheeses butter of the Ukraine, already in an oily state, and oozing through the sides of the casks; wine, onions, cordage, iron, biscuit, cloth, pens, paper, hard-ware, hats, shoes, tobacco, and fruit. A few sheep were, moreover, huddled together close to the gun in the forecastle. During our stay at the Dardanelles, we had lived in the house of the Neapolitan Consul. This respectable old man put in force a stratagem which may serve to shew the extraordinary power of imagination over diseases of the body. Being troubled with an intermitting fever, brought on during our excursion in Troas, I had been observed by him to go frequently to a clock, in the antechamber of our apartment, watching for the hour when the paroxysm began. This used to occur exactly at noon. One morning he put back the clock a full hour. At twelve, therefore, I had no fear of my fever, for the index pointed to eleven: and at one, although the hour seemed to be present, the paroxysm did not take place. Unfortunately, pleased by the success of his experiment, he told me what had happened; and after the usual interval, the fever again returned. By the same manner, all the charms used among the lower order of people in this country, operate in the cure of agues. The Tomb of Protesilaus, as related by Philostratus(168), was antiently resorted to in healing a quartan fever. We received great civilities from the Pacha. He sent one of his officers with our Greek servant, to collect some marbles we wished to remove from Troas; a work generally attended with difficulty, owing to a notion the Turks have, that Christians can extract gold from such stones. The ceremony of his daughter's marriage with the son of an Asiatic Viceroy, called, by way of eminence, The Pacha of Asia, and said to be Lord over a hundred villages, took place during the time we remained. Upon this occasion, Inscriptions. public sports were exhibited, and we had an opportunity of seeing a magnificent celebration of the game of Djirit, the tournament of the Turks. This very antient pastime might possibly have given rise to tilts and tournaments. It is difficult to reconcile a passion for this martial exercise with the natural habits and indolence of the Turks. The two old Pachas fought against the young bridegroom, each party being at the head of a numerous band. The contest was CHAP. VII. often so severe, that we expected to see their eyes, if not their lives, sacrificed. The manner of the engagement has been often described. It consists chiefly in a charge made at full speed, and an attack, by hurling short thick sticks, as javelins. Great dexterity is shewn, both in parrying off these darts, and in the display of equestrian skill. Upon the day following that in which the combat took place, male camels were brought to fight with each other, during a concert of Turkish music. In this exhibition there was nothing curious nor diverting, except the extraordinary strength shewn by these animals, when a female camel was brought before them. One of the camels, with a half a dozen strong Turks endeavouring to restrain it, set off in full speed, overtook the female, and threw her down, notwithstanding all their efforts to the contrary. The festivity of the day ended with a scene of intoxication in the palace of the Pacha of the Dardanelles, who is much addicted to drinking. When commotions arise, or there is reason to fear a visit from the Capudan Pacha, who comes occasionally to levy contribution, he retires to his little villa in the recesses of Mount Ida: here he gives full scope to his love of drinking; having conveyed with him his concubines, musicians, dancers, and game-keepers; and being also attached to the sports of the field. The late Mr. Willis left at the Dardanelles two marbles, Public sports with inscriptions, which are now in the possession of the Custom-House officer. These were offered for sale to us. Mr. Willis found them in Troas, and I believe, in Alexandria Troas. One of them had been the capital of a pillar, and was converted by the Turks into a mortar : the other exhibited only a broken mass of marble, of an irregular form. Upon the first I read, This inscription belongs to the latter end of the third century; Galerius Maximianus having been Consul in the CHAP. VII. year 294. The title of Cæsar was conferred upon him by Diocletian. The letters DN are the usual abbreviation of Dominus. The title Princeps Jubentutis, or Juventutis, was used in the time of the Republic; and we find it continued through almost all the Emperors, until the time of Constantine;"Symbolum futuræ successionis," as it is expressed by Spanheim(169). Voyage down the Helles pont. In what remains of the other inscription, we find mention made of the Tribunus Militum of the third Legion; of the Præfectus Fabrum (170); and of the Præfectus Equitum. The latter part relates, perhaps, to the conquest of fortyfour States in Africa. The following are the only legible characters upon the stone: TRIB. MILLEGIIIAV CIVITATES XXXXIIII EXPROVINCAFRICA We saw no other antiquities at the Dardanelles; nor were we able to procure any antient medals. If these are found, the Consuls of the different nations reserve them as presents for their respective ambassadors at Constantinople. Captain Castle had, however, obtained several among the Ruins of Parium; where he also observed curious mosaic pavements, and other remains of that city. Having all our things on board, we weighed anchor, and took leave of Monsieur Preaux, who returned to Constantinople. As we sailed down the Straits, a very conspicuous Tumulus appeared, crowning the hills upon the European side. Leaving the Dardanelles, we again coasted the interesting land of Troas, passing the Rhetean promontory, and once more viewing the Tomb of Ajax, the sepulchre of Esyetes, the Grecian harbour, and the mouth of Xanthus, tinging the dark waters of the Hellespont with its yellow torrent. Our course was along the European side of the channel; as in passing round Sigeum there is a shoal, whereon vessels are often stranded. In order to escape this, ships from the Archipelago avoid bearing up |