of wood were used. The interior of our chamber reminded CHAP. V. us of the halls of our oldest English mansions; in which all the members of the family, from the highest to the lowest, met together. I have often suspected that our ancestors borrowed the style of their dwelling-houses from the East, during the Crusades. The custom of suspending armour, weapons, and instruments for the chace, upon the walls, is quite Oriental; so is that of the raised platform, for superior guests, constituting the upper extremity of the apartment. To these may be added the small paneled wainscot, full of little cupboards, and the latticed windows, nearer to the roof than to the floor. Several of the inhabitants came to pay their respects, and welcome the strangers. They had never before seen Englishmen ; but they gave us an account of certain Frenchmen, who had endeavoured, without success, to visit the top of Gargarus, which they called Kazdaghy. From this place a road leads to Beyram, antiently Assos, upon the Adramyttian Gulph, now called Ydramit. The Ruins of Assos were described to us as sufficient to employ any person two days in a mere survey. Many Inscriptions are said to exist there, hitherto unobserved by European travellers.

Half an hour after leaving Turkmanle we came to Bonarbashy of Beyramitch, the second place we had seen of that name; and so called, like the first, from its vicinity to the fountain-head of some very remarkable warm springs, Warm three of which gush with great violence from artificial Springs, apertures, into a marble reservior entirely constructed of antient materials. This beautiful bason is shaded by the oldest and finest Oriental plane-trees. Its waters take their course into the plain, where they fall into the Mender. The people of the place relate the same story of these springs as of the others at Bonarbashy, the supposed site of Ilium. They affirm, that they are cold in summer, and hot in winter, when it is said smoke ascends from them. The frost was on the ground at the same time we tasted the water, which was quite warm; yet buffaloes were swallowing it greedily, and seemed to delight in the draught they made. Its temperature is probably always the same. We found it equal to 69° of Fahrenheit. The shafts of two pillars of granite, of the Doric order, stood, one on each

CHAP. V. side of the fountains; and half the operculum of a marble Soros (119) lay in the wall above them. Peasants brought us a few barbarous medals of the lower ages, with effigies of Saints and Martyrs.

Begramitch.

An hour after leaving this place we came to Beyramitch, a city belonging to the Pacha of the Dardanelles, and present capital of all Troas. It is a large place, filled with shops. The houses seemed better built and more regularly Antiquities. disposed than in Constantinople. All the land around belongs to the Pacha before mentioned, whom the Porte has nearly ruined by extorted contributions. In the yard of the Khan, or Inn, is a marble column, exhibiting a style of the Doric order, which I have observed no-where but in Troas. Instead of being fluted, the shaft is bevelled, so as to present a polygonal surface. Others, of the same kind, were among the antiquities lying on the hill at Tchiblack. This column stands in the middle of a bason, serving as a public conduit, wholly constructed of antient materials. All these, together with an astonishing quantity of substances for building, were derived from Ruins lately discovered upon a lofty hill, which we were told we should pass immediately after leaving Beyramitch, in our journey towards the source of the Mender; the Pacha having made very considerable excavations, in search of marbles, and other materials, there buried. In the streets of Beyramitch we noticed more than one Soros of entire blocks of granite, which the inhabitants had procured from the same place. One of the inhabitants told us he had recently brought from thence certain broken pieces of sculpture, to which we should be welcome, if we could get permission from the Pacha for their removal. This we afterwards obtained and brought them to England(120).

Kuchunlu
Tepe.

The place where all these antiquities have been discovcred is rather a conical mountain than a hill, bearing the name of Küchûnlû Tépe, at two hours' distance from Beyramitch, towards Gargarus. Indeed it has been placed by Nature so as to resemble a sort of advanced position at the base of that mountain, immediately beneath its summit. The Mender, or Scamander, flows at its foot. This river is here generally called Kasdaghy, from the name now given to Gargarus, the mountain whence it issues. The

principal site of the antiquities upon Kûchùnlù Tèpe is CHAP. V. about half way up the side of the immense cone bearing that name; but very remarkable remains may be traced thence all the way to the summit. These will be described in the sequel. Having arrived at the base of the cone, we left our horses by the side of the river, and ascended to the Ruins. The first appearance that struck us was an oblong Temple and Altars of, area, ninety-two yards long and fifty-four wide, covered Jupiter. with fragments of terra cotta, and also with pieces of antient glass, such as broken lachrymatories, and other small vessels. On the north side, part of a wall remained by which the area was originally inclosed, about fourteen feet in height. The work seemed to be of the age of the Romans, from the baked tiles, four inches thick, and the cement used in its construction. On the western extremity of the area, were considerable remains of baths, whose stuccoed walls and earthenware conduits were still entire in several places. An excavation had been made by the Turks, on the south side, for the stones of the foundation, to the depth of twenty-two feet. By the appearance of the foundation, the walls, on this side at least, were double, and admitted a passage between them. Above this area (perhaps that of a temple), towards the north were tombs. We entered an arched vault, thirteen yards long, and five wide, and saw near it the remains of a bath, wanting only the roof. Here lay some columns sixteen inches in diameter, among pieces of broken amphora, fragments of marble, granite, basalt, blue chaleedony, and jasper. The following letters, of the only Inscription we could find, on a broken slab of marble, afford no other information than that the language in use here was Grecian; and even this evidence must not here be disregarded:

ΟΣ

ΑΙΟΝ
ΡΙΟΥ

We presently came to the cornice of a Doric entablature, of such prodigious size, that our artist, Monsr. Preaux, said he had seen nothing like it in Athens. There were other Doric remains; and the shaft of one Corinthian column, twenty-two inches diameter, distinguished from the Dorie in having the edges of the canelure flat instead of sharp.

Temple and

Altar's of
Jupiter.

CHAP. V. Higher upon the hill we found the remains of another temple: the area of this measured one hundred and forty yards long, and forty-four wide. Here the workmen had taken up about a hundred blocks of stone and marble: every one of these measured five feet cleven inches in length, and was eighteen inches thick. We afterwards found an angle of the foundation of this temple; a bath, whose roof was yet entire; and another fragment of the Doric entablature before mentioned. As the temples of Jupiter were all of the Doric order, it is very probable, whatever may be the antiquity of these works, that here was the situation of the Temple and Altars of Idæan Jove, mentioned by Homer(122), by Eschylus(123), and by Plutarch (124). Their situation, with respect to Gargarus, precisely agrees with Homer's description. According to Aschylus, they were EN ISA121 HA; and the highest point of all the Idæan Chain extends itself into the plain, in such a manner that the hill at its base, upon which these Ruins appear, is, in fact, a part of Gargarus itself. The baths point out the history of the place, and there are warm springs in the neighbourhood. The original temple was therefore, probably, a very antient one of Jupiter Liberator, situated near the heights of Ida, on the site of which, in later ages, these buildings were accumulated.

The most remarkable part of the description is now to be related, as it seems to refer pointedly to superstitions concerning the summit of that mountain bearing the name of Gargarus; held by the Antients in such veneration, as the seat of the Immortal Gods(125). A spacious winding road, sixteen yards in breadth, rises from the remains of these temples to the top of the Kúchunlû. All the way up may be noticed traces of former works; but upon the summit, a small oblong area, six yards in length, and two in breadth, exhibits marks of the highest antiquity. The stones forming the inclosure are as rude as those of the walls of Tirynthus in Argolis; and the whole is encircled by a grove of venerable oaks, covering the top of the cone, The entrance to this area is from the south: upon the east and west, on the outside of the trees, are stones ranged like what we, in England, call Druidical circles. From hence the view is grand indeed. Immediately before the eye is

spread the whole of Gargarus; seeming, from its immense CHAP. V. size, and the vastness of its features, as if those who were stationed on this spot might hold converse with persons upon its clear and snowy summit. A bold and sweeping ridge descends from its top to the very base of the cone of Kúchúnlú Tépe; and this, as a natural altar, stands before the mountain. Far below is seen the bed and valley of the Scamander, bearing a westward course, from the place of its origin.

As I descended, I found my companions busied among Evgillar. the Ruins before described. They had excavated a very beautiful columu, part of which they discovered buried in the soil, and had found a bronze medal of the city of Corinth. Our artist had also completed some very interesting views. We passed the night at the foot of Gargarus, three hours distant from this place, in one of the most wretched villages of Turkey, called Ergillar. Our coming at first excited suspicion among the inhabitants, who regarded us as French spies, and even proceeded to menaces, in some degree alarming; but our firmán being produced, and the object of our journey explained, we experienced from these simple and honest mountaineers every good office it was in their power to bestow.

the Summit

On the following morning, by day-break, the sky being cloudless, we began to ascend towards the summit of the mountain. During the greatest part of the year, Gargarus, Ascent to like Ætna, is characterized by a triple zone; first, a dis- of Gargarus. trict of cultivated land; afterwards, an assemblage of forests; and lastly, towards the summit, a region of snow and ice. Passing through the first on horseback, we ascended by the banks of the river. The scenery was uncommonly fine it resembled the country in the neighbourhood of Vietri, upon the Gulph of Salerno, where Salvator Rosa studied and painted the savage and uncouth features of Nature, in his great and noble style. During the first hour, Oratories of we passed the remains of some small Greek chapels, the oratories of asceties, whom the dark spirit of superstition, in the fourth century of the Christian æra, conducted, from the duties of civil society, to the wildest and most untrodden solitudes. Secluded from scenes of war and revolutionary fury, these buildings remain nearly as they were left when

Hermits.