ligent Greek priest, I had an opportunity of examining a CHAP. II great variety of volumes, brought from the Isle of Princes, and from the private libraries of Greek princes resident at the Phanár (31). It is true, many of them were of little value; and others, of some importance, the owners were unwilling to sell. The fact is, it is not money which such men want. They will often exchange their manuscripts for good printed editions of the Greek Classics, particularly of the Orators. Prince Alexander Bano Hantzerli had a magnificent collection of Greek manuscripts, and long corresponded with me after my return to England (32.) I sent him, from Paris, the original edition of the French Encyclopédie; and no contemptible idea may be formed of the taste of men, who, situated as the Greek families are in Constantinople, earnestly endeavour, by such publications, to multiply their sources of information. Some of the Greek manuscripts now in the Bodleian were originally in his possession; particularly a most exquisite copy of the four Gospels, of the tenth or eleventh century, written throughout, upon vellum, in the same minute and beautiful characters. The exercises of the Athlete, whether derived or not by Athletae the Turks from the subjugated Greeks, are still preserved, and often exhibited, in the different towns of the empire(33). The combatants appear with their bodies oiled, having no other clothing than a tight pair of greasy leathern breeches. So much has been already written upon these subjects, that any further detail would be superfluous. Belon, in his interesting work, composed near three centuries ago, appropriated an entire chapter to a description of the Turkish wrestling-matches (34). The same observation is not applicable to the Hippo- Hippodrome. drome; now called Atmeidan, which also signifies the Horse-course; because many erroneous statements have appeared with regard to the antiquities it contains, particularly the absurd story, generally propagated, concerning the blow given by Mahomet, with his battle-axe, to the famous Delphie Pillar of three brazen serpents; which, it is said, smote off the heads of one of them. This place preserves nearly the state in which it was left by the Greeks. F CHAP. II. Obelisk. Delphic A representation of the Hippodrome is given in bas-rchef upon the base of the Obelisk: by this it appears, there were originally two obelisks, one at each extremity of the course, That which remains is about fifty feet in height, according to Tournefort (35), of one entire block of Egyptian granite. The manner in which this immense mass was raised, and placed upon its pedestal, by the Emperor Theodosins, is represented also, in a series of bas-reliefs upon its base. The workmen appear employed with a number of windlas ses, all brought, by means of ropes and pulleys, to act at once upon the stone. There is nothing either grand or beautiful in the remains of the Brazen Column, consisting of the bodies of three serpents twisted spirally together. It is about twelve feet in height; and being hollow, the Turks have filled it with broken tiles, stones, and other rubbish. But in the circumstances of its history, no relique of antient times can be more interesting. It once supported the golden tripod at Delphi, which the Greeks, after the battle of Plattæa, found in the camp of Mardonius. This fact has been so well ascertained, that it will probably never be disputed. "The "guardians of the most holy relics" says Gibbon(36), would rejoice, if they were able to produce such a chain "of evidence as may be alleged upon this occasion." Its original consecration in the temple of Delphi is proved from Herodotus and Pausanias: and its removal to Constantinople, by Zosimus, Eusebius, Socrates Eeclesiasticus, and Sozomen. Thevenot, whose work is known only as a literary imposture, relates the story of the injury it had sustained from the battle-axe of Mahomet. The real history, however, of the loss of the serpent's heads is simply and plainly related by Chishull. "The second pillar," says he, "is 66 of wreathed brass, not above twelve feet high: lately terminated at the top with figures of three serpents rising "from the pillar, and with necks and heads forming a beau tiful triangle. But this monument was rudely broken, "from the top of the pillar, by some attendants of the late Polish ambassador, whose lodgings were appointed in the CHAPTER II. FROM CONSTANTINOPLE TO THE PLAIN OF TROY. Arrival of an American Frigate-Departure from Con- CHAP. IV. HE arrival of an American frigate, for the first time, Arrival of an THE of an only among the Turks, but also throughout the whole diplomatic corps stationed in Pera. This ship, commanded by Captain Bainbridge, came from Algiers, with a letter and presents from the Dey to the Sultan and Capudan Pacha. The presents consisted of tigers and other animals, sent with a view to conciliate the Turkish Government, whom the Dey had offended. When she came to an anchor, and a message went to the Porte that an American frigate was in the harbour, the Turks were altogether unable to comprehend where the country was situated whose flag they were to salute. A great deal of time was therefore lost in settling this important point, and in considering how to receive the stranger. In the mean time we went on board, to visit 'the captain; and were sitting with him in his cabin, when a messenger came from the Turkish Government to ask whether America were not otherwise called the New World; and, being answered in the affirmative, assured the captain that he was welcome, and would be treated with the utmost cordiality and respect. The messengers from the Dey were then ordered on board the Capudan Pacha's ship; who, receiving the letter from their sovereign with great rage, first spat, and then stamped upon it; telling them to go back to their master, and inform him, that he would be served after Frigate. CHAP. III. the same manner, whenever the Turkish admiral met him. Captain Bainbridge was however received with every mark of attention, and rewarded with magnificent presents. The fine order of his ship, and the healthy state of her crew, became topics of general conversation in Pera; and the different ministers strove who should first receive him in their palaces. We accompanied him in his long-boat to the Black Sea, as he was desirous of hoisting there, for the first time, the American flag; and, upon his return, were amused by a very singular entertainment at his table during dinner. Upon the four corners were as many decanters, containing fresh water from the four quarters of the globe. The natives of Europe, Asia, Africa and America, sat down together to the same table, and were regaled with flesh, fruit, bread, and other viands; while, of every artiele, a sample from each quarter of the globe was presented at the same time. The means of accomplishing this are easily explained, by his having touched at Algiers, in his passage from America, and being at anchor so near the shores both of Europe and Asia. Departure from Constantinople. Soon after, news came to Constantinople of the expedition to Egypt, under General Sir Ralph Abercrombie; and intelligence of the safe arrival of the British fleet, with our army, in the Bay of Marmorice. The Capudan Pacha, on board whose magnificent ship, the Sultan Selim, we had been with our ambassador, previous to the sailing of the Turkish squadron for Egypt, ordered a corvette to be left for us to follow him; having heard that my brother, Captain George Clarke, of the Braakel, was with the fleet in Marmorice, to whom he expressed a desire of being afterwards introduced. Nothing could exceed the liberality of the Turkish admiral upon this occasion. He sent for the captain of the corvette, and, in our presence, gave orders to have it stored with all sorts of provisions, and even with wines; adding also, that knives, forks, chairs, and other conveniences, which Turks do not use, would be found on board. We sailed in this vessel on the second of March; and, saluting the Seraglio as we passed with twenty-one guns, the shock broke all the glass in our cabin windows. Our Turkish crew, quite ignorant of marine affairs, ran back at the report of their own cannon; trusting entirely to a few Greeks and some French prisoners, to manage all the con- CHAP. III: cerns of the vessel. We were not sorry to get away from the unwholesome place in which we had lived, and to view the mosques and minarets of Constantinople, disappearing in the mists of the Sea of Mormora, as we steered with a fair wind for the Hellespont (37). Towards evening, the wind strengthening, the crew lowered all the sails, and lay to all night. In the morning, having again hoisted them, I found, at nine o'clock, A. M. that we had left Marmora, a high mountain, far behind us. The Isle of Princes appeared, through a telescope, to consist wholly of limestone. I wished much to have visited the ruins of Cyzicum, but had not opportunity. The small isthmus, near which they are situated, is said to have accumulated in consequence of the ruins of two antient bridges, which formerly connected an island with the main land. Recently, above a thousand coins had been found on the site of Parium in Mysia, and sold by the peasants to the master of an English merchant vessel: I saw the greater part of them; they were much injured, and of no remote date, being all of bronze, and chiefly of the late emperors. Between Marmora and the Dardanelles, and nearer to the latter, on the European side, appears a remarkable tumulus, on the top of a hill near the shore. The place is called Hexamil; and, according to the Map of De L'Isle, was once the site of Lysimachia. The entrance to the Canal of the Hellespont, from the Sea of Marmora, although broader than the Thracian Bosporus, has not the same degree of grandeur. Its sides are more uniform, less bold, and are not so richly decorated. The only picturesque appearance is presented by the European and Asiatic castles, as the straits become narrower. Before coming in sight of these, the eye notices a few houses and windmills, belonging to the present village of Lamsaque, which are all that remains of the antient Lampsacus. The wine of the place no longer retains its pristine celebrity. We came to anchor about three miles above the castles. I went on shore, and walked to the town of Dardanelles. In my way, I observed the shafts of several pillars of granite; some of these had been placed upright in the earth, as posts, on which to fasten vessels; others were dispersed and neglected. In the recess of a small bay, before reaching the Dardanelles. |