town is so obviously implied; the question of the woman
referring to existing prejudices which separated the Jews
from the Samaritans; the depth of the well; the Oriental
allusion contained in the expression, "living water;" the
history of the well, and the customs thereby illustrated;
the worship upon Mount Gerizim; all these occur within
the
space of twenty verses: and if to these be added, what..
has already been referred to (689) in the remainder of the
same chapter, we shall perhaps consider it as a record,
which, in the words of Him who sent it(690), "WE MAY

LIFT UP OUR EYES, AND LOOK UPON, FOR IT IS WHITE
ALREADY TO HARVEST."

CHAPTER XVI.

THE HOLY LAND-NAPOLOSE TO JERUSALEM.

Journey to Jerusalem-Singular Cultivation of JudæaJacob's Field-Bethel-Beer-Prospect of the Holy City -Formalities of a Public Entry-Reception by the Inhabitants-Gate of Damascus-Identity of "the Holy Places"-Visit to the Governor-Convent of St. Salvador-Appearance of the Monks-Dormitory for Travellers-Pilgrim's Chamber-Convent Stores-LibraryExactions of the Turks-Manufactures of Jerusalem— Mecca Fruit-Fetid Limestone-Water of the Dead Sea -Visit to the "Holy Places"-Sepulchre of the Messiah-Its Identity disputed-Its present AppearanceOther Reliques-Plan for the Survey of the City-Sion Gate-Discovery made by the Author-Inference derived from it-Possible Site of Golgotha, or Calvary-Greek Inscriptions-Remarkable Tomb--Hebrew Inscriptions Conjecture respecting Mount Sion.

W

E left Napolose one hour after midnight, that we CHAP. XVI. might reach Jerusalem early the same day. Wend

Journey to
Jerusalem.

Singular
Cultivation of
Judaea.

CHAP. XVI. were, however, much deceived concerning the distance. Our guides represented the journey as a short excursion of five hours: it proved a most fatiguing pilgrimage of eighteen(691). The road was mountainous, rocky and full of loose stones (692); yet the cultivation was everywhere marvellous it afforded one of the most striking pictures of human industry which it is possible to behold. The limestone rocks and stony valleys of Judea were entirely coverd with plantations of figs, vines, and olive-trees; not a single spot seemed to be neglected. The hills, from their bases to their upmost summits, were entirely covered with gardens all of these were free from weeds, and in the highest state of agricultural perfection. Even the sides of the most barren mountains had been rendered fertile, by being divided into terraces, like steps rising one above another, whereon soil had been accumulated with astonishing labour. Among the standing crops, we noticed millet, cotton, linseed, and tobacco; and occasionally small fields of barley. A sight of this territory can alone convey any adequate idea of its surprising produce: it is truly the Eden of the East, rejoicing in the abundance of its wealth. The effect of this upon the people was strikingly pourtrayed in every countenance: instead of the depressed and gloomy looks of Djezzar Pacha's desolated plains, health, hilarity, and peace, were visible in the features of the inhabitants. Under a wise and beneficent government, the produce of the Holy Land would exceed all calculation. Its perennial harvest (693); the salubrity of its air(694); its limpid springs; its rivers, lakes, and matchless plains ; its hills and vales ;-all these, added to the serenity of its climate, prove this land to be indeed "a field which the Lord hath blessed(695); God hath given it of the dew of heaven, and the fatness of the earth, and plenty of corn and wine."

The first part of our journey led through the valley lying between the two mountains Ebal and Gerizim(696). We passed the Sepulchre of Joseph[697], and the well of Jacob[498], where the valley of Sichem opens into a fruitful plain, watered by a stream which rises near the town. Jacob's Field. This is allowed, by all writers, to be the piece of land mentioned by St. John[699], which Jacob bought[700]

"at the hand of the children of Emmor," and where he CHAP. XVI.
erected his altar[701] to "the God of Israel." After-
wards, as the day dawned, a cloudless sky foretold the
excessive heat we should have to encounter in this day's
journey; and before noon, the mercury in Fahrenheit's
thermometer, in the most shaded situation we could
find, stood at 102 degrees. Our umbrellas scarcely afford-
ed protection, the reflection from the ground being almost
as insupportable as the sun's direct rays[702]. We had,
during the morning, a long and most tedious ride, without
rest or refreshment; silently following our guides, along a
narrow and stony track, over a mountainous country, and by
the edge of precipices. We passed, without notice, a place
called Leban by Maundrell[703], the Lebonah of Scripture:
also, about six hours distance from Napolose, in a narrow
valley, between two high rocky hills[704], the ruins of a
village, and of a monastery, situated where the Bethel of Bethel.
Jacob is supposed to have been (705). The nature of the
soil is an existing comment upon the record of the stony
territory, where "he took of the stones of the place, and put
them for his pillows." At two o'clock P. M. we halted for
a little repose, near a well, beneath the shade of a ruined
building. This place was said to be three hours distance
from Jerusalem. It is perhaps the same described by
Maundrell, under the name of Beer (706); so called, says Beer.
he, from its fountain of water, and supposed to be the
Michmash of sacred scripture (707). It is described by him
as distant three hours and twenty minutes from the Holy
City (708). This name of our halting place is not found,
however, in any of our Journals. Here, upon some pieces
of very mouldy biscuit, a few raw onions, (the only food
we could find upon the spot), and the water of the well,
we all of us fed with the best possible appetite; and could
we have procured a little salt, we should have deemed our
fare delicious.

At three P. M. we again mounted our horses, and proceeded on our route. No sensation of fatigue or heat could counterbalance the eagerness and zeal which animated all our party, in the approach to Jerusalem; every individual pressed forward, hoping first to announce the joyful intelligence of its appearance. We passed some insignificant

CHAP. XVI. ruins, either of antient buildings or of modern villages;

Prospect of the Holy City.

but had they been of more importance, they would have excited little notice at the time, so earnestly bent was every mind towards the main object of interest and curiosity. At length, after about two hours had been passed in this state of anxiety and suspense, ascending a hill towards the south" HAGIOPOLIS !" exclaimed a Greek in the van of our cavalcade; and instantly throwing himself from his horse, was seen bareheaded, upon his knees, facing the prospect he surveyed. Suddenly the sight burst upon us all. Whe shall describe it? The effect produced was that of total silence throughout the whole company. Many of the party, by an immediate impulse, took off their hats, as if entering a church, without being sensible of so doing. The Greeks and Catholics shed torrents of tears; and presently beginning to cross themselves, with unfeigned devotion, asked if they might be permitted to take off the covering from their feet, and proceed, barefooted, to the Holy Sepulchre. We had not been prepared for the grandeur of the spectacle which the City alone exhibited. Instead of a wretched and ruined town, by some described as the desolated remnant of Jerusalem, we beheld, as it we re, a flourishing and stately metropolis; presenting a magnificent assemblage of domes, towers, palaces, churches, and monasteries; all of which, glittering in the sun's rays, shone with inconceivable splendor (709.) As we drew nearer, our whole attention was engrossed by its noble and interesting appearance. The lofty hills whereby it is surrounded give to the city itself an appearance of elevation inferior to that which it really possesses (710). About three quarters of an hour before we reached the walls, we passed a large ruin upon our right hand, close to the road. This by the reticulated style of masonry upon its walls, as well as by the remains of its vaulted foundations of brick-work, evidently denoted a Roman building. We could not obtain any account of it; neither is it mentioned by the authors who have described the antiquities of the country.

At this place, two Turkish officers, mounted on beautiful horses, sumptuously caparisoned, came to inform us, that the Governor, having intelligence of our approach, had sent them to escort us into the town. When they arrived,

we were all assembled upon an eminence, admiring the CHAP. XVI splendid appearance of the city; and being impressed with other ideas than those of a vain ostentation, would gladly have declined the parade, together with the interruption caused by a public entry. This was, however, said to be Formalities unavoidable; it was described as a necessary mark of respect of a Public Entry. due to Djezzar Pacha, under whose protection we travelled; as well as of consequence to our future safety. We therefore consigned ourselves to all the etiquette of our Mahometan Masters of Ceremony, and were marshalled accordingly. Our attendants were ordered to fall back in the rear; and it was evident, by the manner of placing us, that we were expected to form a procession to the Governor's house, and to appear as dependants, swelling the train of our Moslem conductors. Our British tars, not relishing this, would now and then prance towards the post of honour, and were with difficulty restrained from taking the lead. As we approached the city, the concourse of people became very great, the walls and the road side being covered with spectators. An immense multitude, at the same Reception by time, accompanied us on foot; some of whom, welcoming the inhabithe procession with compliments and caresses, cried out "Bon' Inglesi! Viva l'Ingilterra!" others, cursing and reviling, called us a set of rascally Christian dogs, and filthy infidels. We could never learn wherefore so much curiosity had been excited; unless it were, that of late, owing to the turbulent state of public affairs, the resort of strangers to Jerusalem had become more uncommon; or that they expected another visit from Sir Sidney Smith, who had marched into Jerusalem with colours flying and drums beating, at the head of a party of English sailors. He protected the Christian guardians of the Holy Sepulchre from the tyranny of their Turkish rulers, by hoisting the British Standard upon the walls of their monastery. Novelty, at any period, produces considerable bustle at Jerusalem: the idleness of its inhabitants, and the uniform tenor of their lives, rendered more monotonous by the cessation of Pilgrimage, naturally dispose them to run after a new sight, or to listen to new intelligence. The arrival of a Tartar courier from the Vizier's army, or the coming of foreigners to the city, rouses Christians from their

tants.