tions of a woman of rank in Syria, as her ear-rings, or the CHAP. XII. golden cinctures of her ankles. Dark streaks were also penciled, from the corners of her eyes, along the temples. This curious practice instantly brought to our recollection certain passages of Scripture, wherein mention is made of a custom among Oriental women of "putting the eyes in painting;" and which our English translators of the Bible(405), unable to reconcile with their notions of a female toilet, have rendered "painting the face." Whether the interesting conversation to which the observance of this custom gave rise, or any other cause, prevented the Consul from informing us of an order of the Pacha, is now of no moment; but it was after the hour of eight when we left his hospitable mansion to return on board the Romulus ; and Djezzar had decreed that no beat should pass the bar of the inner harbour after that hour. The crew of the long-boat were pulling stoutly for the ship, when, just as Attack upon the Longthey were rowing beneath the tower of the battery that boat of the guards the inner harbour, a volley of large stones came Romulus. like cannon-shot upon us from above, dashed the oars from the hands of the sailors, and wounded three of them severely. It is very fortunate none of their brains were beat out, for some of the stones weighed several pounds. The eries of our wounded men gave us the first alarm, and presently another volley drove us back with all possible speed towards the shore. Not one of us who sat in the stern of the boat received any injury. Captain Culverhouse, and Mr. Loudon, Purser of the Romulus, ran for the Consul: the rest of us rushed into the ground-floor of the watchtower whence the attack proceeded: it was a kind of guardroom. Being the foremost of the party, I observed a man in the very act of descending from the tower into this place, evidently in some agitation. Having seized him by the collar, a struggle ensued: the other Arabs attempted to rescue him, and a general confusion prevailed, in the midst of which the Consul and Captain Culverhouse entered the place. It was some time before any order could be restor ed; our party were determined not to give up the culprit we had secured; but the Consul knowing him, and undertaking to be responsible for his appearance when called for, we retired and went on board the Romulus. CHAP. XII. Pacha. Next morning, word was brought to the ship, that unless → the Captain went on shore, the man would be put to death. We accompanied him to the Consul's house, and met the Pacha's interpreter ; but found that the whole was a fabrication; no notice had been taken of the event, and Djezzar was yet ignorant of the circumstance. Upon this, Captain Culverhouse returned to his ship; and sent me to inform the Pacha, that he should be compelled to have recourse to other measures, if the insult offered to his majesty's flag was not properly noticed; and that he would go no more on shore until this was done. Determined, therefore, that, Djezzar should have due information of the outrage, I took with me the stones which were found in the long-boat, tied in a sack; one of the wounded sailors, and a mid-shipman, Appeal to the being ordered to accompany me. Signor Bertocino met us upon the shore, assuring me that it was the hour when Djezzar always slept; that it would be certain death to any one of his slaves who should wake him and having earnestly entreated me not to venture to the palace, he declined acting as interpreter. I resolved therefore, to make myself understood without his aid; and ascended the staircase of the Seraglio, towards the door of the apartment wherein Djezzar had always received us. This I found shut. The Guards, mute, or whispering, began their signs to us, as we advanced, not to make any noise. The young mid-shipman, however, as well as myself, began to knock at the door, and immediately every one of the guards fied. It was some time before any notice was taken of our summons; but at length the door was opened by a slave, appointed, as we were af- ! terwards informed, to keep the flies from the Pacha's face during his sleep, and who always remained with him, in the outer apartment of his Charem, for this purpose, during the repose he took in the day. This man, after putting his finger to his lips, pushed us from the passage, saying, "Heida! heida, Djour! Hist! hist!" that is to say, " Begone, begone, Infidel! Hush! hush!" We called loudly for Djezzar; and presently heard the murmuring of the old Pacha's voice in the inner apartment, somewhat milder than the growling of a bear roused from his repose, calling for his slave. As soon as he had been told the cause of the distur bance, he ordered us to be admitted. I presented myself foremost, with my sack of stones; and understanding enough CHAP. XII. of Arabic to comprehend him when he asked what was the matter untied the cloth, and rolled them before him upon the floor; shewing him at the same time, our seaman's broken shins, and wounded shoulder. Bertocino was now loudly called for by the Pacha, and of course, compelled to make his appearance; Djezzar making signs to me and to the young officer to remain seated by him until his interpreter arrived. As soon as Bertocino had placed himself, as usual, upon his knees, by the Pacha's side, and informed him the cause of our visit, an order was given to one of the attendants, to bring the Captain of the Guard instantly into Djezzar's presence. This man came: it appeared that his absence from his post the preceding evening, had given occasion to the attack made upon the long-boat; some of the fanatic Arabs thinking it a fine opportunity to strike a blow at a party of Infidels. Nothing could exceed the expression of fury visible in Djezzar's countenance at this intelligence. It might have been said of him as of Nebuchadnezzar, "The form of his vissage was changed." Drawing his dagger, he beckoned the officer, as Bertocino trembling said to us," Now you will be satisfied!" "What," said I," is he going to do ?"" To put to death that poor man,” added he and scarcely were the words uttered, than I more terrified than any of the party, caught hold of Djezzar's arm; the midshipman adding his entreaties to mine; and every one of us earnestly supplicating pardon for the poor victim. All we could obtain, was permission from the Pacha to have the punishment suspended until Captain Culverhouse was informed of the circumstance, who, coming on shore, saved the man's life; but nothing could prevail upon Djezzar to grant him a free pardon. He was degraded from his rank as an officer, and we heard of him no more. The next morning, an Albanian General was ordered into the mountains, with a party of cavalry, to act against the Druses. Djezzar, who sent for us to inform us of this Further circumstance, further told us, that he entertained some ap- with Djezzar. prehensions on account of our journey to Jerusalem; but, said he, "I have already sent messengers into the country, that every precaution may be used among the Chiefs in the villages." He spoke also of the news he had received from Interview CHAP. XII. Egypt, whereby he understood that the Vizier had retreated from before Caïro, on account of the plague. "This conduct," said he, "might be justifiable in a Christian, General, but it is disgraceful in a Turk(406)." He then informed us that upon Mount Carmel he had found several thousand large balls (407), and never could discover à cannon to fit them; but that a peasant had found a field-piece, which Buonaparté had concealed previously to his leaving the country, capable of receiving every one of those balls. During this conversation, which lasted about an hour, interlarded, on the part of Djezzar, with a more than ordinary allowance of aphorisms, truisms, and childish stories, he was occupied, as usual, in cutting paper into various shapes, such as those of coffee-pots, pipes, cannon, birds, and flowers. At last, his engineer coming to consult him concerning the improvements he imagined himself making in the fortifications of Acre we took that opportunity to retire. Some notion may be formed of his talents in fortification. by simply relating the manner in which those works were carried on. He not only repaired the memorable breach caused by the French, and so ably defended by Sir Sidney Smith, but directed his engineers to attend solely to the place where the breach was effected, regardless of all that might be wanted elsewhere. "Some persons," said he, putting his finger to his forehead, "have a head for these matters, and some have not. Let us see whether or not Buonaparte will make a breach there again. A breach is a breach, and a wall is a wall !?? Commerce of The Bath of Acre is the finest and best built of any that we saw in the Turkish empire. We all bathed here during our stay. Every kind of antique marble, together with large pillars of Egyptian granite, might be observed among the materials of its construction. A great quantity of cotton is exported from this place. The country abounds in cattle, corn, olives, and linseed. In almost every town of Syria there is a fabric for the manufacture of soap; but every thing depends upon the will of the Pacha: the produce of the land was exported, or not, as it pleased Djezzar, who cared very little for consequences. His avarice, it is true, prompted him to increase the income of his custom-houses, but his ignorance, as it was observed of him by Baron de Tott (407), prevented his discovering, that "speculations of revenue, when they strike at industry, cannot, for that reason, ever be calculated on any principles of commerce." CHAPTER XIII. THE HOLY LAND-ACRE TO NÁZARETH. Commencement of the Author's Journey in the Holy Land Camp of Djezzar Pacha's Cavalry-Cavalcade for the Expedition-Syrian Tents-River Belus-Plants SHEFHAMER-Reception by the Agha-Grave of an Egyptain form-Plain of Zabulon-SAPPHURA, or SEPPHORIS Medals—Druses-State of Christianity in the Holy Land-Church of St. Joachim and St. Anne-Gothic Remains-Discovery of Antient Pictures-Their probable Age-Country between Sephoury and Nazareth -Dress of the Arabs-Alarm of the Plague-NAZARETH-Condition of the Inhabitants-Fountain of the Virgin-Custom illustrating a Saying of our Saviour— Franciscan Convent-Pretended Miracle-Superstitions of the Country-Empress Helena-Other Objects of Reverence in Nazareth-Mensa Christi-Environs of the Town-Ordinary Penance of Travellers in the Holy Land. UPON PON the third of July, we began our journey to Jeru- CHAP. XIII. salem; intending first to visit all those places in Gali- Commencelee rendered remarkable by the life and actions of Jesus ment of the Christ. We left Acre(408), by the southern gate of the Author's Journey in city, at four o'clock P. M.(409). It would be curious to the Holy ascertain when this place obtained a name so near to its antient appellation, after bearing that of Ptolemais, not Ff Land. |