destitute of water, and perishing with thirst, have some- CHAP. IX. times this deceitful prospect before their eyes. Before we arrived at Rosetta, seeing a flag displayed upon the tower of Abû-mandûr, to the right of our route, we supposed a part of our troops might be there stationed, and therefore climbed that mountain of sand, to visit them. Here we were unexpectedly greeted with an astonishing view of the Nile, the Delta, and the numerous groves in all the neighbourhood of Rosetta: it is the same so wretchedly pictured in Sonnini's Travels, and of which no idea. can be formed from his engraved representation. The scene is beyond description. The sudden contrast it offers, opposed to the desert we had traversed, the display of riches and abundance poured forth by the fertility of this African paradise, with all the local circumstances of reflection excited by an extensive prospect of the Nile, and of the plains of Egypt, render it one of the most interesting sights in the world. Among the distant objects we beheld the English camp, stationed about five miles up the river, upon its western side; and all the country as far as the fortress of Rachmanie. The beautiful boats peculiar to the Nile, with their large wide spreading sails, were passing up and down the river. Unable to quit the spot, we dismissed our guides, and remained some time contemplating the delightful picture. Afterwards, descending on foot, close by the superb mosque of Abû-mandûr, we continued our walk along the banks of the Nile, through gardens richer than imagination can pourtray, beneath the shade of enormous overhanging branches of sycamore and fig trees, amidst bowers * of roses, and through groves of date, citron, lime and banana trees, to Rosetta. As we entered the town, Arabs, in long blue dresses, welcomed our coming, placing their hands upon their breasts, and saying, " Salaam, Alla! Bon Ingleses!" while from the camp, English officers, ou horses, camels, or on foot, and boats, filled with troops, upon the water, gave to the place a character of gayety never perhaps possessed by it in any former age. All authors mention the beauty of its scenery, complaining only of the monotony and dulness of the city. At the time we saw it, no such complaint was applicable; for, with unrivalled natural beauty, Rosetta then exhibited one of the liveliest CHAP. IX. and most varied pictures of human life it is possible to behold. From the different people by whom it was thronged, its streets resembled an immense masquerade. There was hardly a nation in the Mediterranean but might have been then said to have had its representative in Rosetta; and the motley appearance thus caused was further diversified by the addition of English ladies from the fleet and army, who, in long white dresses, were riding about upon the asses of the country. Upon our arrival, we went to the quarters of Sir Sidney Smith. He was then with our army, in the camp near Rachmanie, but we were conducted to a house he had kindly prepared for our reception," that the turbulence of war, might not," as he was pleased to express it," interfere with the arts of peace." This dwelling was the most delightful of any in Rosetta. Placed in a prominent situation upon the quay, it commanded a view of the Nile, and of the Delta, in every direction (282). We had therefore only to return to the fleet for a few articles of convenience, and for our books, and here to fix our residence, CHAPTER X. CHAP. IX. FROM ROSETTA IN EGYPT, TO LARNECA IN Return to the Fleet Nelson's Island-Antiquities-Rosetta-Trilinguar Inscription-Scarabæus PilulariusCurious Edifice in Rosetta of the Gothic form-Voyage to Cyprus-Appearance of the Island-Salines--Hot Winds Larneca-Insalubrity of the Island-Produce of the Land-Wine of Cyprus-Wretched Condition of the Country-Phoenician Idols-Nature of the Cyprian Venus-Antient Gems-Signet Rings-Origin of the Camachuia-Theban Stone-Paintings commemorated upon Gems-Notice of a Picture by Zeuxis from an antient Greek Manuscript-Substances used for the Signets of Cyprus-their most antient form. UR Return to the Island. [PON the first of May, we returned to the fleet for our CHAP. X. baggage, and took this opportunity to examine the Isle of Bekier, (or, Aboukir), or, as it is now called, Fleet. "Nelson's Island." We procured here about half a bushel Nelson's of the bulbs of a very superb species of lily, with which the whole island was covered. Heaps of human bodies, cast up after "the Action of the Nile," as it has been rather improperly termed (283), and not having been exposed to the devouring jackals, still presented upon the shore a revolting spectacle. Captain Clarke, who was with us, employed the crew of his cutter in burying their remains ; and we were proud to aid their pious labour. Small as this island is, it yet contains some very remarkable antiquities. Antiquities. We observed the paved floors of buildings, with part of their superstructure, and some arched chambers lined with CHAP. IX. Stucco, stretching out from the island towards Aboukir. Other remains might also be observed under water; a convincing proof of the changes to which the coast has been liable from the encroachment of the sea. A very singular subterranean passage, now open at its northern extremity, leads to some apartments in the opposite direction, which have an aperture above them, even with the surface of the higher part of the island: no conjecture can be formed whither this passage extended elsewhere, as it has been opened by the sea towards the bay. Pliny, speaking of Canopus, says it was an island; on which account these ruins may have belonged to that eity. Sonnini has described other remains upon the opposite coast; and these seem to owe their origin to Canopus. If, therefore, Pliny's statement be incorrect, and the island once formed a part of the continent, as the inhabitants of the country maintain, the ruins here, and those mentioned by Sonnini, may altogether have resulted from the destruction of the same place, now lying buried beneath the waves, a memorable instance of the fate attending cities distinguished only by their vices. We found here a few other curious plants, and in great abundance, among the sand, those small and beautiful shells worn by Maltese sailors in their ears. We were detained with the fleet until the ninth. Upon the morning of that day, the Braakel's cutter being ordered to Rosetta, we again set out for that place; sailing in company with the Dorothea frigate, until she came off the mouth of the Nile. The surf on the bar being low, we were able to pass over it, and therefore entered the Rosetta branch of the river. Of the seven mouths this river formerly possessed, only two remain; those of Damiata and Rosetta. Soon after passing the bar in the embouchure of the Rosetta branch, an island divides the stream into two broad channels; and just beyond the point where these again unite, upon the western side of the river, Rosetta is situated; appearing equally beautiful, whether approached by land or by water. The small island I have mentioned is covered with clover and date-trees, and was then appropriated to the use of the French and Maltese prisoners, taken at Damiata, and other places upon the Nile towards Caïro. We remained at Rosetta until the twentieth, visiting, CHAP. IX. occasionally, the Delta, and environs of the town. Concerning this place, the account already published by Sonnini is so faithful, that to attempt another would be introducing a superfluous repetition. Chameleons are very common in gardens, and upon the island in the midst of the river, where we procured two, that lived with us until we finally left Egypt. These were large, and of a most vivid green colour when first taken. Afterwards, their ordinary appearance was that of a common lizard; and we found, as they became unhealthy, that their power of changing colour diminished. Indeed, this effect is seldom rapid or instantaneous. It seems always the result of sudden apprehension or surprise, when the poor defenceless animal, having no means of resistance, gradually assumes the colour of some substance over which it presses, being thus provided by Nature with the means of concealment. Frogs and toads appear to possess this property in a certain degree, although it may have escaped the observation of naturalists. After these reptiles have remained a certain time upon a recently turned border of earth, their colour so much resembles that of the soil, that they are not easily perceived; and sometimes among the grass, when alarmed by the sudden approach of any other animal, they assume a greenish hue. The inclosures for gardens near Rosetta are formed by hedges made of palm-branches, or of the Cactus Ficus Indica, Prickly Pear. We had often the pleasure of colleeting its fine yellow blossoms; those are faithfully represented by an engraving published in the account of Lord Macartney's voyage to China. Apricots of a small size, the produce of standard-trees, together with the fruit of the banana (281), sugar-canes, pumpkins, lettuees, and cucumbers, are common in the markets of Rosetta, at this season of the year. In viewing Egypt, there is nothing more remarkable than the scarcity of those antiquities which appear so common in all the museums of Europe. From Rosetta, the French had removed almost every thing of this description; but their acquisitions were by no means so remarkable as might have been expected. We found only some granite columns remaining; these indeed were frequent in the streets of |