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we came to another rapid: the fall here was CHAP. trifling, but our boat had nearly filled with water in ascending it. The Muonio then exhibited a broad and brilliant surface, shining and reflecting every object near it, like the most polished mirror. Our crew intended to stop at Kihlangi; but a little persuasion, aided by a dram for each person, engaged them to conduct us as far as Parkajoansuu, twenty-one English miles higher up the river; which they accomplished; having actually worked the boats, in one day, against the whole force of the current and all the rapids, a distance equal to forty-two of our miles.

Sun.

We now perceived one inconvenience to which we were liable, owing to the general flatness of the country and its uninterrupted forests. If we could have ascended a mountain, or climbed to any height above that of the trees, we had Midnight every reason to believe that we should have beheld the sun above the horizon at midnight: we found afterwards that this was true; and that wanting such an elevation, we missed the sight of the midnight orb, although its beams were visible, shining at every hour of the night upon the tops of the trees. A sudden diminution of temperature was sensibly felt in the middle of the night, as contrasted with the heat of the day: but in other respects, there was little difference.

suu.

X.

CHAP. It was a curious circumstance, to see all the flowers blooming around us, and to hear the continual piping of the Beccasine in the midst of the night, as if it were noon. The moon, now nearly at the full, rose with an appearance resembling that which she exhibits when viewed through a telescope. About ten English miles to the east of us, upon the frontier of Kiemi Lapmark, and in the midst of forests, one of the wealthy nomade Laplanders had fixed his summer residence, with six or seven hundred rein-deer: they sometimes possess from fifteen hundred to two thousand of Parkajoan. these animals. At Parkajoansuu, we found an agricultural Laplander building his house, which had been consumed by fire; an accident very common in the country. They seem to use little precaution against such a calamity; the mode of constructing their fire-places, which are surrounded on all sides by wood, renders accidents by fire extremely probable. At Parkajoansuu, as usual, the natives assembled: many of them came in to see us prepare our beds and supper, with a degree of curiosity which was constantly shewn wherever we halted; staring at us, as would an English peasant at so many Turks. If by accident the children, strolling from the cottages, caught the first sight of us upon our arrival, it was always announced to the rest of their

X.

families by cries and screams; running like rab- CHAP. bits to their several burrows, the moment any of us appeared'. Fahrenheit's thermometer, this day, in the shade at 2 P.M. indicated a temperature of 73°; when immersed in the middle of the river, the whole scale being under water, 65°; and when exposed to the sun's rays, the mercury instantly rose to 100°.

The continuation of our voyage from Parkajoansuu was not attended by any remarkable circumstance: we had a repetition of scenes often described, with favourable weather, and a sultry sun. This part of the river, being now distant, according to its course, 240 English miles from the sea, was often as broad as the Thames at Westminster Bridge, and never narrow in any part. The only habitable spot between Parkajoansuu and Muonioniska occurs in a small village, or farm, called Muonion-alusta, situate upon an Muonion

alusta.

(1) The author remembers a similar alarm being excited, in forcing a passage over the Aips, with wheel-carriages, where nothing of the kind had before been seen. It was in the year 1791, when the French had possession of the passage by Mount Cenis, that, being in company with an English nobleman, he attempted the passage of St. Gothard with two English carriages, and arrived in the Vale of Urseren, where for the first time the peasants beheld this kind of vehicle. In their eagerness to examine one of them, they broke the blinds, which had been drawn up; when two little pug-dogs with black faces peeping out, dispersed the whole mob, who spread a report that they had seen two devils in one of the carriages.

X.

CHAP. island'. The names of places frequently refer to the falls and rapids of the river near which they are situate. Thus, Muonioniska signifies the neck or beginning of the force; and Muonion-alusta, upon the southern point of the island before mentioned, fourteen English miles distant from the former, means the end of the force. Near Muonionalusta we had the first view of any thing that might be considered as a mountain, since we embarked upon this expedition. In its shape and appearance, it reminded us of the Wrekin in Shropshire. Neither the village of Muonion-alusta, nor the island, are noticed in any map of the country; which is the more remarkable, because the island is perhaps the largest in the Muonio, excepting that of Kolare. Our course along the western side of this island, after passing the village, was first north and north-west; and afterwards, along the northern side, it became south-east;

(1) When Von Buch descended this river in 1807, it was but "a solitary and miserable cottage-the last house of this region. For many miles," says he, "I saw no more dwellings. A thick forest, without any elevations, runs along both banks, without any interruption. But, notwithstanding the seeming uniformity of such a forest, the fancy is agreeably occupied with the fresh and lively green of the banks, where birches, willows, ulders, and the bird-cherry tree (prunus padus), hend softly over the water, with a perpetual diversity and change of form; and then dark spruce-firs rise above the close thickets, like so many cypresses." See Von Buch's Travels, p. 357. Lond. 1813.

(2) This mountain is Pallas Tunduri, to the east of Muonioniska. According to Von Buch, it is 850 English feet above the level.

until, bearing northward again, we entered once more the broad channel of the river, where it is separated by the island into two branches; one flowing to the south-west, the other bearing up quite to the north-west. The annexed sketch will

CHAP.

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much better illustrate the position and form of this island than any verbal description; and it will also shew the extent of the rapids. These rapids, called by the general name of Muoniokoski, constitute the most considerable Falls of the whole river Muonio. The lower part or end of