among their rocks and fnows, than others of the Italians do in the pleasanteft valleys of the world. Nothing indeed can be a greater inftance of the natural love that mankind has for liberty, and of their averfion to arbitrary government, than fuch a favage mountain covered with people, and the Campania of Rome, which lies in the fame country, almoft deftitute of inhabitants.

PESARO, FANO, SENIGALLIA,

To

F

ANCONA, LORETTO, &c.

ROM

O ME.

ROM Rimini to Loretto the towns of note are Pefaro, Fano, Senigallia, and Ancona. Fano received ts name from the fane or temple of fortune that stood in it. One may ftill fee the triumphal arch erected there to Auguftus: It is indeed very much defaced by time; but the plan of it, as it food intire with all its infcriptions, is neatly cut upon the wall of a neighbouring building. In each of thefe towns is a beautiful marble fountain, where the water runs continually through several little fpouts, which looks very refreshing in these hot countries, and gives a great coolness to the air about them. That of Pefaro is handfomely defigned. Ancona is much the most confiderable of thefe towns. It stands on a promontory, and looks more beautiful at a distance than when you are in it. The port was made by Trajan, for which he has a triumphal arch erected to him by the fea-fide. The marble of this arch looks very white and fresh, as being exposed to the winds and falt fea-vapours, that by continually fretting it preferves itself from

that

that mouldy colour, which others of the fame materials have contracted. Though the Italians and voyagewriters call thefe of Rimini, Fano, and Ancona, triumphal arches, there was probably fome diftinction made among the Romans between fuch honorary arches erected to Emperors, and those that were raised to them on account of a victory, which are properly triumphal arches. This at Ancona was an inftance of gratitude to Trajan for the port he had made there, as the two others I have mentioned were probably for fome reafon of the fame nature. One may, however,obferve the wifdom of the ancient Romans, who, to encourage their Emperors in their inclination of doing good to their country, gave the fame honours to the great actions of peace which turned to the advantage of the public, as to thofe of war. This is very remarkable in the medals that were ftamped on the fame occafions. I remember to have seen one of Galba's with a triumphal arch on the reverfe, that was made by the fenate's order for his having remitted a tax. R. XXXX. REMISSA. S. C. The medal, which was made for Trajan,in remembrance of his beneficence to Ancona, is very common. The reverse has on it a port with a chain running across it, and betwixt them both a boat, with this infcription, S. P. 2. R. OPTIMO PRINCIPI. S. C Q.

1 know, Fabretti would fain afcribe this medal to another occafion; but Bellorio, in his additions to Angeloni, has fufficiently refuted all he says on that fubje&t.

At Loretto I enquired for the English jefuits lodgings, and on the ftair-cafe that leads to them I saw feveral pictures of fuch as had been exe

cuted

cuted in England, as the two Garnets, Old-Corn, and others to the number of thirty. Whatever were their crimes, the inscription fays they fuffered for their religion, and fome of them are reprefented lying under fuch tortures as are not in ufe among us. The martyrs of 1679 are set by themselves, with a knife ftuck in the bofom of each figure, to fignify that they were quartered.

The riches in the holy house and treasury are furprisinglygreat, and as much furpaffed my expectation as other fights have generally fallen fhort of it. Silver can fcarce find an admiffion, and gold itfelf looks but poorlyamong fuch an incredible number of precious ftones. There will be, in a few ages more, the jewels of the greatest value in Europe, if the devotion of its Princes continues in its present fervour. The laft offering was made by the Queen Dowager of Poland, and cost her 18000 crowns. Some have wondered that the Turk never attacks this treasury, fince it lies fo near the feafhore, and is fo weakly guarded. But befides that he has attempted it formerly with no fuccefs, it is certain the Venetians keep too watchful an eye over his motions at prefent, and would never fuffer him to enter the Adriatic. It would indeed be an easy thing for a chriftian Prince to furprife it, who has fhips ftill paffing to and fro without fufpicion, efpecially if he had a party in the town, disguised like pilgrims to fecure a gate for him; for there have been fometimes to the number of 100000 in a day's time, as it is generally reported. But it is probable the veneration for the holy houfe, and the horror of an action that would be refented by all the catholic Princes of Europe, will be as great a fecurity to the place as the strongest fortification. It is indeed an amazing thing to fee fuch a prodigious quan

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tity