fuch chimerical relations; for it is perhaps of this place that Claudian fpeaks, in the following defcription:

Et locus extremum pandit qua Gallia littus,
Oceans prætentus aquis qua fertur Ulysses
Sanguine libato populum moviffe filentum :
Illic umbrarum tenui ftridore volantum
Flebilis auditur queftus; fimulachra coloni
Pallida defunctafque vident migrare figuras, &c.
Claud, in Ruf. lib. 1.

A place there lies on Gallia's utmost bounds,
Where rifing feas infult the frontier grounds:
Ulyffes here the blood of victims shed,
And rais'd the pale affembly of the dead.
Oft in the winds is heard a plaintive found
Of melancholy ghosts that hover round:
The lab'ring plow-man oft with horror fpies
Thin airy fhapes that d'er the furrows rise,
(A dreadful fcene !) and fkim before his eyes.

}

I know there is nothing more undetermined among the learned than the voyage of Ulyffes; fome confining it to the Mediterranean, others extending it to the great ocean, and others afcribing it to a world of the Poet's own making; though his converfations with the dead are generally fuppofed to have been in the Narbon Gaul.

Incultos adiit leftrigonas antiiphatenque, &c.
Atque hæc feu noftras interfunt cognita terras,
Fabula five novum dedit his erroribus orbem.

Tibul. Lib. iv. Eleg. i. ver. 59.

Uncertain whether, by the winds convey'd,
On real feas to real fhores he stray'd;

Or

Or, by the fable driven from coaft to coaft,
In new imaginary worlds was loft.

The next day we again fet fail, and made the best of our way, until we were forced by contrary winds, into St. Remo, a very pretty town in the Genoefe dominions. The front to the fea is not large; but there are a great many houfes behind it, built up the fide of the mountain to avoid the winds and vapours that came from the fea. We here faw feveral perfons that in the midft of December had nothing over their fhoulders but their fhirts, without complaining of the cold. It is certainly very lucky for the poorer fort to be born in a place that is free from the greatest inconvenience, to which those of our northern nations are fubje&; and indeed, without this natural benefit of their climates, the extreme mifery and poverty that are in most of the Italian governments would be infupportable. There are at St. Remo many plantations of palm-trees, though they do not grow in other parts of Italy. We failed from hence directly for Genoa; and had a fair wind that carried us into the middle of the gulph, which is very remarkable for tempefts and fcarcity of fish. It is probable one may be the cause of the other, whether it be that the fishermen cannot employ their art with fo much fuccefs in fo troubled a fea, or that the fish do not care for inhabiting fuch stormy

waters:

-Atrum

Defendens pifces biemat mare--Hor.Sat.ii. lib.i.v.16.

While black with ftorms the ruffled ocean rolls, And from the fisher's art defends her finny fhoals.

We were forced to lie in it two days, and our captain thought his fhip in fo great danger, that he fell upon his knees, and confeffed himself to a capuchin who was on board with us. But at laft, taking the advantage of a fide-wind, we were driven back in a few hours time as far as Monaco. Lucan has given us a description of the harbour that we found welcome to us, after the great danger we had efcaped.

fo

very

Quaque fub Herculeo facratus nomine portus
Urget rupe cava pelagus: non corus in illum
Jus habet aut zephyrus: Solus fua littora turbat
Circius, & tuta prohibet ftatione Monaci.

Lib. i. v. 405.

The winding rocks a fpacious harbour frame,
That from the great Alcides takes its name:
Fenc'd to the weft and to the north it lies;
But when the winds in fouthern quarters rife,
Ships, from their anchors torn, become their sport,
And fudden tempefts rage within the port.

On the promontory, where the town of Monaco now ftands, was formerly the temple of Hercules Moræcus, which still gives the name to this small principality.

Aggeribus focer Alpinis atque arce Monaci
Defcendens-
-Virg. En. vi. v. 830.

FromAlpine heights, and from Monacus' fane,
The father firft defcends into the plain.

There are but three towns in the dominions of the prince of Monaco. The chief of them is fituate on a rock which runs out into the fea, and is well · fortified

fortified by nature. It was formerly under the protection of the Spaniard, but not many years fince drove out the Spanish garrifon, and received a French one, which confifts at prefent of five hundred men, paid and officered by the French King. The officer, who fhewed me the palace, told me, with a great deal of gravity, that his master and the King of France, amidst all the confufions of Europe, had ever been good friends and allies. The palace has handfome apartments that are many of them hung with pictures of the reigning beauties in the court of France. But the beft of the furniture was at Rome, where the prince of Monaco refided at that time ambaffador. We here took a little boat to creep along the fea-fhore as far as Genoa ; but at Sa- 1 vona, finding the fea too rough, we were forced to make the best of our way by land, over very rugged mountains and precipices: For this road is much more difficult than that over mount Cenis.

The Genoefe are efteemed extremely cunning, induftrious, and inured to hardship above the rest of the Italians; which was likewife the character of the old Ligurians. And indeed it is no wonder, while the barrennefs of their country continues, that the manners of the inhabitants do not change: Since there is nothing makes men sharper, and fets their hands and wits more at work, than want. The Italian proverb fays of the Genoefe, that they have a fea without fish, land without trees, and men without faith. The character. the Latin Poets have given of them is not much different,

Affuetumque malo Ligurem. Virg. Georg. ii. v. 168.

The hard Ligurians, a laborious kind.

B 3.

-Per

Yet, like a true Ligurian, born to cheat, (Atleaft whilft fortune favour'd his deceit.) Dryden

Vane Ligur, fruftraque animis elate fuperbis,

Nequicquam patrias tentafti lubricus artes.

Id. ib. iv. 715.

Vain fool and coward, cries the lofty maid,
Caught in the train which thou thy felf haft laid,
On others practife thy Ligurian arts;

Thin ftratagems, and tricks of little arts
Are loft on me; nor fhalt thou fafe retire,

With vaunting lies, to thy fallacious fire. Dryden.

There are a great many beautiful palaces standing along the fea- fhore on both fides of Genoa, which make the town appear much longer than it is, to thofe that fail by it. The city itself makes the nobleft fhow of any in the world. The houses are most of them painted on the outfide; fo that they look extremely gay and lively; befides that they are efteemed the higheft in Europe, and ftand very thick together. The new street is a double range of palaces from one end to the other, built with an excellent fancy, and fit for the greatest princes to inhabit. I cannot however be reconciled to their

manner