CHAP. III.

GRAND CAIRO.

Arabic Language, as spoken in Egypt-Dress of the Women in Caïro-State of Society-Houses-GardensCeremony of Ululation in honour of the Dead-Exaggerated Descriptions of the Country-Supposed Sacrifice of a Virgin to the Nile-Book Market-Antient Medals in circulation-Custom of the Arabs in passing a Bridge-Appearance of Women in the StreetsEnormities practised by the Turks-Extortions-Discovery of a curious Manuscript - Citadel-Pointed Arches-Interesting Inscription-Mosaic PaintingPresent State of the Art-Joseph's Well-Origin of the Citadel-View from the Ramparts.

III.

ANY Englishman hearing a party of Egyptian CHAP. Arabs in conversation, and being ignorant of their language, would suppose they were quar

III.

Arabic
Language,

in Egypt.

CHAP. relling. The Arabic, as spoken by Arabs, is more guttural even than the Welsh; but the dialect of Egypt appeared to us to be particularly harsh. as spoken It is always spoken with a vehemence of gesticulation, and loudness of tone, which is quite a contrast to the stately sedate manner of speaking among the Turks: we were constantly impressed with a notion that the Arabs, in conversation, were quarrelling. More than once we ordered the interpreter to interfere, and to pacify them; when it appeared that we were mistaken, and that nothing was further from their feelings, at the time, than anger. The effect is not so unpleasing to the ear, when Arab women converse; although the gesticulation be nearly the same. Signor Rosetti', whose hospitality to strangers has been celebrated by every traveller in Egypt during nearly half a century, introduced us to a Venetian family, of the name of Pini', in which there were many beautiful young women, and with

(1) Mr. Bruce mentions him (Trav. vol. I. p. 30. Edinb. 1790.) under the name of "Carlo Rosetti, a Venetian merchant, a young man of capacity and intrigue." Bruce was in Caïro in the beginning of July, 1768. Signor Rosetti told us he well remembered Bruce, and entertained no doubt as to the truth of the narrative which he published concerning his travels.

(2) "There is also at Caïro a Venetian Consul, and a house of that nation called Pini, all excellent people." Bruce's Trav. vol. I. p. 26. '

III.

the Women

whom we had frequent opportunity of hearing CHAP. the Arabic, as spoken by the most polished females of the city. The dress of those young Dress of ladies was much more elegant than any female in Cairo. costume we had before observed in the East, and it was entirely borrowed from the Antients. A zone placed immediately below the bosom served to confine a loose robe, open in front, so as to display a pair of rich pantaloons. The feet were covered with embroidered slippers, but the ankle and instep were naked; and round the lower part of the leg, above the ankle, they wore cinctures of massive gold, resembling the golden cincture discovered in a tomb near the Cimmerian Bosporus, and represented in a former part of this work3.

Society.

Denon speaks of the pleasurable sensations State of daily excited by the delicious temperature of Cairo, causing Europeans, who arrive with the intention of spending a few months in the place, to remain during the rest of their lives, without ever persuading themselves to leave it. Few persons, however, with whom we associated, were disposed to acquiesce in the opinion of this very amiable writer. Those who are

(3) See Vol. II. Chap. II. p. 72. Octavo edition.,

III.

CHAP. desirous of uninterrupted repose, or who are able to endure the invariable dulness which prevails in every society to which strangers are admitted, may, perhaps, tolerate, without murmuring, a short residence in the midst of this dull and dirty city. The effect, whether it be of climate, or of education, or of government, is the same among all the settlers in Egypt, except the Arabs; namely, a disposition to exist without exertion of any kind; to pass whole days upon beds and cushions; smoking, and counting beads. This is what Maillet termed Le vrai génie Egyptienne'; and that it may be acquired by residing among the native inhabitants of Caïro, is evident from the appearance exhibited by Europeans who have passed some years in the city.

Upon our first coming, we had no other place of lodging than what our djerm afforded. This was stationed, during the day, at Bulác, and it was guarded by our faithful Arabs. Every night these men moved our vessel over to the Isle of Rhouda, and anchored close to the camp of the Indian army, with a view to avoid the

(1) Déscription de l'Egypte, tom. II. p. 220. ù la Haye, 1740.

mice, flies, vermin, and dust, which infested us from the quay, and prevented our rest. But, after a short time, we procured a large house, which had been inhabited by French officers, in a very populous part of the city, near to the residence of Signor Rosetti. This greatly increased our facility of seeing the city, and of observing the manners of its inhabitants.

СНАР.

III.

The best houses in Caïro correspond with the Houses. description given in a former part of this work, of the palace of an Armenian merchant, at Nicotia in Cyprus. The taste shewn in decorating their apartments is of the kind called Arabesque: this, although early introduced into England from the East, is not Saracenical, but Egyptian'. It is a style which the Greeks themselves adopted; and it was received amongst the Romans in the time of Augustus. Where the windows are glazed, which more frequently exhibit an open lattice-work, they are ornamented with coloured glass; representing landscapes and animals, particularly the lion, which seemed to be a favourite subject in works of

(2) See Part II. Sect. 1. Chap. xi. of these Travels.

(3) See the observations of Denon, Trav. in Egypt, vol. I. p. 211. Lond. 1803.