I.

Djezzar's power. "You will not like to begin CHAP. your reign," said he, "by slaughtering them;

observed in the walls large pieces of Verd-antique, and specimens of many different kinds of marble: the ornaments within are light, and painted in very gay colours: the whole building has more the appearance of a fine theatre, than a place for devotion. We were not permitted to ascend the minaret: here it is the office of a blind person to call the people to prayers, that there may be no opportunity from this elevated situation to observe the women in the Pasha's Charem. Before being admitted into the Mosque, we were obliged to purchase thin slippers, and wear them as a mark of respect, leaving our boots at the entrance. The court of the Mosque, in the centre of which is a neat fountain, and a small plantation of palm and cypress trees, is surrounded by a sort of cloister, and small apartments, in which are deposited the books of Djezzar. These also serve as lodging-places for the chief people of the law. Under the Mosque is a large reservoir for water; and we were informed, that, at present, a ten years' supply of water for the town is collected in the different cisterns. Without the gate of the Mosque, and opposite to the entrance of the Seraglio, is a handsome fountain, with basons of white marble, and furnished with drinking cups, very convenient for the inhabitants. Since the campaign of the French in Syria, the fortifications of Acre have been repaired, and considerably increased: those which have been added are much more substantial than the old; the masonry, though not finely wrought, is solid and well executed; the stones which compose it are taken from the walls and foundations of the antient Ptolemaïs. The whole of the ramparts are surmounted with a sort of battlement, which Djezzar told us was very useful when the enemy mounted to the assault: for these stones, being loosened, were tumbled down upon the French, and occasioned very great confusion When the French besieged Acre, their attack was directed on the Bourge Ali, at the north-east angle; and the besiegers took advan tage of irregularities in the ground, of the garden walls, and of a small ravine, and more particularly of the remains of an aqueduct which once conveyed water to Acre.—Djezzar, profiting by this experience, has entirely levelled the aqueduct near the town, and is determined that, for the future, the enemy shall not have the smallest shelter.

The Bay of Aere, or Caiffa, is seven miles in width, and perhaps a

league

CHAP. I will do that business for you :" accordingly, he

I.

you:"

ordered them to be brought before him, and

league and an half in length: the sweep is nearly semicircular: the soundings, in general, ten or eleven fathoms; and the holding-ground near the village Caiffa, on the south side, excellent.

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A low sandy ridgę, projecting from the south point of the bay, forms a secure roadstead abreast of Caiffa, and is always preferred. Two small streams discharge themselves into the Bay of Acre: one about a mile east of Caiffa, supposed to be the Kishon of the Sacred Scripture: the second, called the River of Acre, discharges itself into the sea, perhaps a mile and an half from the town. This stream is shallow, inconsiderable, and frequently changes its direction. The beach of the bay does not seem convenient for landing, being much exposed to the westerly winds, flat and shallow, with a continual surf. April the 13th. Soon after breakfast we visited Djezzar, who was very talkative, and showed us several specimens of his ingenuity: he cut out, in our presence, a gun, in paper, with a pair of scissars ; told us he was a great adept at this art, and would let us see his performances these consisted of vases and flowers, very neatly cut, and adorned with different inscriptions from the Koran, and had been further decorated by a painter in the town: he also showed us the model of a powder-mill to be worked by horses, of his own invention. When we made him a compliment on the gallant defence of Acre, by himself and Sir Sidney Smith,-'Ah! (replied he) all events are from "God. Fate has always favoured Djezzar; and confident in my own strength and means, I never feared Buonaparte. Nor do 1 care for the Vizier: when he marched through this part of Syria, he did not dare to approach Acre; for he knew I was well able to receive him.'

:

After having taken our leave, we wished to visit the fortifications towards the sea: we were however told, that it would be better to walk without the town; for Djezzar could not be responsible for our safety within, as it was the time of a festival (the Kourban Beiram, the sacrifice of lambs), during which the soldiers fire their pistols continually (always with ball), and perhaps some accident might befal us. Mr. Hamilton returned to Djezzar, to make some diplomatic arrangements; while Major Leake and myself took a walk on the north side of the fortifications.

"Djezzar's Dragoman (Bertocini, a Genoese) informed us, that thirteen years ago, on account of a suspected conspiracy between his

Mamaluke

I.

they were put to death in his presence. Soon CHAP. afterwards he died; leaving, as he had predicted,

Mamaluke slaves and his Georgian and Circassian women, he put them all to death, eleven females, by throwing them alive into a well, and thus leaving them to expire: he also mutilated a vast number of them, by cutting off their noses, who had had the smallest communication with the Mamalukes. It is supposed that Djezzar has thirteen women in his Charem; their dresses being made in the town, and a billet being sent to the workmen for a dress for such a particular number.

"At four P. M. we re-embark.

66 April the 14th. After breakfast, we visited Djezzar. We brought with us a packet, which we requested him to forward by a courier to Aleppo. Am I (said he, in a violent rage) the Suis Bashi (Chief ' of the Couriers)? Your conduct is very extraordinary. The first day you visit me as a friend ;-you make me no present. You suspected my friendship from the first. Instead of coming directly to Acre, why did you anchor at Caiffa? [We were prevented by the weather, and our pilot's entire ignorance of the harbour.] On the 'second visit you desire to see the plans of my fortifications; and while the two others go without, and examine my fortifications, you (addressing himself to Mr. Hamillor) remain with me, open the object of your mission, and wish me to make peace with the Druzes; ' a subject I cannot bear to advert to.' Mr. Hamilton attempted an explanation; and told him that the simple subject of his inquiry was, whether Sir Sidney Smith had interfered in the affair of the Druzes, or not;-that Lord Elgin was extremely sorry to have heard a report of that nature ;-that the conduct of those persons who had communicated with the enemies of Djezzur should be strictly inquired into: and he concluded by observing, that he hoped Djezzar would receive an English Consul at Acre. This, indeed, was the subject of the conversation of yesterday. Djezzar had mistaken the whole : like a true tyrant, always filled with jealousy and suspicion, he imagined that we were emissaries from the English, and wished to reestablish the affairs of the Druzes. He would hearken to no explanation; but entertained suspicions which we saw it would be wholly impossible to erase. The Emir Bechir (Prince) of the Druzes, who governs the Mountains (of the Lebanon) inhabited by this people and

the

CHAP. the undisturbed possession of a very exten

1.

sive territory to his successor, Ismael Pasha.

the Maronites, is continually at war with Djezzar, and he refused the contributions annually levied in the Mountains. Djezzar retains two nephews of the Emir in his Seraglio, as hostages, in case any act of hostility should be shown by the Prince of the Mountains. When the French were before Acre, they attempted to, bring over the Druzes and Maronites to their alliance. Sir Sidney Smith, gaining intelligence of this, very prudently despatched emissaries to coun teract the French intrigue in the Mountains; and made ample promises of his friendship and protection to the Druzes. This people had always been the declared enemies of Djezzar; and the shortsighted policy of the tyrant made him most inveterate against Sir Sidney and the English, on account of their correspondence in the Mountains.

6

"I can (added Djezzar) let the English know, that I am as 'powerful in my enmities, as I am faithful and sincere in my friend'ships. Am I to be dictated to? I, who have held the sword over the 'heads of the Beys, shall I lower it, and be humbled by the English? No! (exclaimed he,) I can withstand them all. I will have no communication with the English. I will have no Consul of that nation; not one of their ships shall come into my harbour; they shall not < approach within gun-shot of my fortifications.' Mr. Hamilton still attempted to explain: and at last, Djezzar went so far as to say, that it was not with Sir Sidney Smith that he was offended; that it was with a Mr. Wright, Lieutenant of the Tigre, and the Vice-Consul of Tripoli, a Frenchman, whom he considered the cause of the breach between him (Djezzar) and Sir Sidney. Mr. Wright (continued he) and the other had been to visit the Chiefs of the Druzes; had made arrangements with them, and had even returned with some of the Princes to Acre; and Sir Sidney ought certainly to have prevented this communication: however (said he) I am not offended with him.' In short, in his extreme anger, he frequently contradicted himself. Leake and myself smiled upon some observations between ourselves. Djezzar became furious. I, who have been a Pasha of three tails these five years; I, (said he) who have defeated twelve thousand 'Druzes with twenty horsemen, am I to be insulted in this manner? -I am speaking seriously. Am I to be laughed at and derided ?—

'I am

I.

Ismael is described by English travellers, who CHAP. have since visited Acre, as a very amiable man, and in every respect the very reverse of this Herod of his time.

After our last interview with Djezzar, we

'I am an old man: you are children. Look at my beard.-I am choleric; I know not what may be the consequence! Had I not been in my ' own house, I should instantly have bursted forth and died with 'indignation! I am now in such a rage, and have talked so much, that I can neither see nor distinguish any of you!' His mouth, at different times, was so parched with anger and exertion, that he took large draughts of water, and remarked, that he had never drank so much water in his life. After a violent conversation of two hours, in which the cruelty, the tyranny, the ingratitude of this monster were displayed in their blackest colours, we took our departure; telling him, that we would repeat our visit in the evening.

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In the course of this morning's interview, he told us, that he was à just man, and fond of order and regularity. If my soldiers touch " me, or have the appearance of offering the smallest insult, I imme'diately order them to be beheaded. If a man insult a woman, his punishment is the same. If I desire a man to sit down in my presence, and I go out of the apartment, and he quit his seat before my return, the loss of his head is the consequence.'

In the afternoon, we again landed, with an intention to visit the Pasha; but we were told by the Dragoman, that he had gone into his Charem, and would not be visible this evening: we therefore returned to the ship.

66 April 15th. After breakfast we went ashore, with an intention to visit Djezzar; but we were told by his Dragoman, that he had issued orders, at the gates of the Seraglio, to refuse our admission. We then inquired if it were possible to hire horses, to pass by land to Tripoli: the Dragoman answered in the negative; for there would be no security for our persons. We then determined to get under weigh, and proceed to Tripoli by sea. At one P. M. we were unmoored, and got out of the bay, with a small breeze from the northward."