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We had not been long in this situation, before the janissaries, with their large felt caps and white staves, ranged themselves on each side of the street leading to the mosque; formog an extensive line of sallow-looking objects, as novel to an Englishman's eye as any in the Turkish empire.

About a quarter of an hour before the procession began, the imâm, or high priest, passed, with his attendants, to the mosque, to receive the sultan. They were in four covered wagons, followed by twenty priests on horseback. The procession then began, and continued, according to the order given be low.* Afterward it returned in the same manner, although not with the same degree of regularity.

*Procession of the GRAND SIGNIOR, at the opening of the Bairam.

1. A Bostangly, [the Bostanghies were originally gardeners of the seraglio, but are now the sultan's body guard. Their number amounts to several thousands] on foot, bearing a wand.-2. Four BALTAGHIES, Or Cooks of the Seraglio.-3. Fifteen ZAIM, or Messengers of State.-4. Thirteen of the CHIAOUX, or Constables, with embroidered turbans.-5. A party of Servants of the Seraglio -6. Thirty CAPIGHI BASHIES, or Porters of the Seraglio, in high white caps, and robes of flowered satins, flanked by Baltaghies, or Cooks, on each side, who were on horseback, with wands.7. Baltaghies, on foot, with caps of a conical form, and white wands.-8. Fourteen ditto, more richly dressed, and mounted on superb horses-9. Other Baltaghies, on foot.-10. Ten of the High Constables, on horseback -11. Forty servants, on foot. -12. The TEFTIRDAGH, or Financier of the Realm, on horseback, most magnificently caparisoned.-13. Forty Servants, on foot.-14. The REIS EFFENDY, or Prime Minister, in a rich green pelisse, on a magnificent charger, with most sumptuous housings, &c.-15. Twenty Servants.-16. The great body of the Chiaux, or Constables, with magnificent dresses, and plumes on their heads.-17. The COLONEL of the JANNISSARIES, with a helmet covered by enormous plumes.-18. A party of Fifty Constables of the Army, in full uniform, with embroidered turbans.-19. Ten beautiful Arabian led Horses, covered with the most costly trappings.-20. The CAPU DAN PACHA, on one of the finest horses covered with jewelled housings, in a rich green pelisse, lined with dark fur, and a white turban.-21. Bostanghies, on foot, with white wands.-22. Ten Porters belonging to the Grand Vizier.-23. The KAIMAKAN, on horseback, as Representative of the Grand Vizier, in a rich crimson pelisse, lined with dark fur, and accompanied by the appendages of office.-24. Twenty servants, on foot, bearing different articles.-25. Twenty of the Grooms of State, on horseback, followed by slaves -26. The MASTER of the HORSE, in embroidered satio robes.-27. Servants on foot.-28. The Deputy Master of the Horse, in robes of em broidered satin -29. Servants on foot.-30. Inferior Chamberlains of the Seraglio, on horseback.-31. Bostanghies, with white wands, on foot.-32. The SumpterHorses of the Sultan, laden with the ancient Armour taken from the Church of St. Irene in the Seraglio: among which were ancient Grecian bucklers and shields, magnificently embossed, and studded with gems-33. Forty Bostanghies, bearing two turbans of State, flanked on each side by Porters.-34. An Officer with a bottle of water.-35. Fifteen Bostanghies, in burnished helmets, bearing two stools of State, flanked on each side by Porters.-36. The GRAND CHAMBERLAIN, most sumptuously mounted.37. Bostanghies, in burnished helmets covered by very high plumes.-38. Lofty waving Plumes, supported by Chamberlains on foot.-39. THE GRAND SIGNIOŘ, on a beautiful managed Arabian Horse, covered with jewels and embroidery, in a scarlet pelisse lined with dark fur, and a white turban; flanked on each side by tall Plumes, supported by Chamberlains.-40. Lofty waving Plumes, supported by Chamberiains on foot.-41. Slaves of the Seraglio, in black satin, having poignards in their girdles, whose handles were studded with pearls.-42. Bostanghies, on foot.-43 The SELIKTAR AGHA, or Sword bearer of State, carrying a magnificent sabre.-44 Party of Attendants on foot.-45. The AGNATOR AGHA, or High Chamberlain, on borseback, scattering paras, the small coin of the empire, among the people.-46 Party of Attendants, on foot.-47. The KISLAR AGHA, or Chief of the Black Eunuchs, on horseback, making his salaams to the people, and flanked on each side by a party of Bostaa

When the ceremony concluded, the grand signior, accompanied by the principal officers of state, went to exhibit himself in a kiosk, or tent, near the seraglio point, sitting on a sofa of silver. We were enabled to view this singular instance of parade, from a boat stationed near the place; and, after the sultan retired, were permitted to examine the splendid pageant brought out for the occasion. It was a very large woodencouch, covered with thick plates of massive silver, highly buruished. I have little doubt, from the form of it, as well as from the style in which it was ornamented, that this also constituted a part of the treasury of the Greek emperors, when Constantinople was taken from the Turks.

Among the misrepresentations made to strangers who visit Constantinople, they are told that it is necessary to be attended by a janissary in the streets of the city. In the first place, this is not true: in the second, it is the most imprudent plan a traveller can adopt. It makes a public display of want of confidence in the people; and, moreover, gives rise to continual dispute, when any thing is to be purchased of the Turks; beside augmenting the price of any article required, exactly in the proportion of the sum privately exacted by the janissary, as his share of the profit. Another misrepresentation is, that a firmân from the grand signior is requisite to gain admission to the mosque of St. Sophia; whereas, by giving eight piastres to the person whose business it is to show the building, it may be seen at any time.*

The architectural merits of St. Sophia and St. Peter's have ghies.-18. Other Officers of the Seraglio, on horseback.-49. The SECRETARY Of STATE, on horseback, bearing the Grand Signior's embroidered leathern portefeuille. --50. A Party of Attendants.-51. The CHANNATOR AGHA, or second of the Black Eunuchs, on horseback.-52. Party of Attendants.-53. The Inferior Black Eunuchs of the Seraglio.-54. Attendants.-55. The TREASURER of STATE.-56. Black Eunuchs.-57. The CAIVEGHY BASHY, or Coffee-bearer of the Grand Signior.-58. Two Turbans of State, on Sumpter-horses.-59. Party of Black Eunuchs, in very magnificent dresses.-60. Officers of the Seraglio; followed by a numerous suite of At. tendants, some of whom were leading painted mules, carrying carpets and various utensils.

other mosques of the purpose of gaining The words of the

At the same time as a firman is necessary, in order to see the
city, it may be proper to add, that having obtained one for the
admission to St Sophia, it is also a passport to all the others.
firman for seeing the mosques, when literally translated, are as follows:

"To the Keepers and Priests of the Great St. Sophia, and other
Holy Mosques of the Sultans.

"It being customary to grant to the subjects of powerful Allies, permission to visit the Holy Mosque and at this time, having taken into our consideration an application made by certain English Gentlemen travelling in these Countries, to enter the Mosques of this City, we hereby consent to their request; granting to them our permission to view the holy. temple of St. Sophia, and other Mosques of the Sullans; also ordaining, upon their comg, accompanied by the respective guards appointed for that purpose, that you do conduct them every where, and allow them free observation of all things, according to established sage."

been often relatively discussed; yet they reasonably enter into no comparison. No accounts have been more exaggerated than those which refer to the former, whose gloomy appearance is well suited to the ideas we entertain of its present abject and depraved state. In the time of Procopius, its dome might have seemed suspended by a chain from heaven; but at present, it exhibits much more of a subterranean than of an aërial character; neither does it seem consistent with the perfection of an edifice intended to elevate the mind, that the entrance should be by a descent as into a cellar. The approach to the Pantheon at Rome, as well as to the spacious aisle and dome of St. Peter's, is by ascending; but, in order to get beneath the dome of St. Sophia, the spectator is conducted down a long flight of stairs. I visited it several times, and always with the same impression. There is, moreover, a littleness and confused Gothic barbarism in the disposition of the parts which connect the dome with the foundation; and in its present state it is bolstered on the outside with heavy buttresses like those of a bridge. Mosaic work remains very entire in many parts of the interior. The dome seems to have been adorned with an uniform coating of gilded tessera, which the Turks are constantly removing for sale; attaching superstitious virtues to those loose fragments of Mosaic, from the eagerness with which strangers strive to procure them. In the great arch, opposite to the principal entrance, the Mosaic is coloured, and represents the figures of saints, of the virgin, and groupes of enormous wings without bodies. I copied a few letters of an inscription in that part of the building, which were beyond all doubt coeval with the edifice itself; and therefore, although they offer a very imperfect legend, it is proper they should be preserved; nothing of the kind having hitherto been noticed in St. Sophia.

OCKAIXPYCOY

ΠΕΝΤΗΚΟΝΤΑ

ΤΑΛΑΝΤΑΘΕΟΚ
N... OICNE
EKEI

The engravings published by Banduri, from drawings by Grelot, added to his own description, afford so accurate a representation of this building, that any further account of it would be superfluous. Many absurd stories have been circulated concerning the contents of the small chapels once used as oratories, the doors of which are seen in the walls of the

galleries. Great interest was making, while we remained in Constantinople, to have these chambers examined. A little gold soon opened all the locks; and we scrutinized not only the interior of these apartments, but also every other part of the building. They were all empty, and only remarkable for the Mosaic work which covered the ceilings. Some of the doors were merely openings to passages, which conducted to the leads and upper parts of the building; these were also either empty, or filled with mortar, dust, and rubbish. Still more absurd is the pretended phosphoric light, said to issue from a mass of lapis lazuli in one of the gallery walls. This marvellous phænomenon was pointed out by our guide, who consented, for a small bribe, to have the whole trick exposed. It is nothing more than a common slab of marble, which, being thin, and almost worn through, transmits a feeble light, from the exterior, to a spectator in the gallery. By going to the outside, and placing my hat over the place, the light immediately disappeared.

The other mosques of Constantinople have been built after the plan of St. Sophia; and particularly that of Sultan Solyman, which is a superb edifice, and may be said to offer a miniature representation of the model whence it was derived. It contains twenty-four columns of granite and of Cipolino marble, together with some very large circular slabs of porphyry. Four granite columns within the building are near five feet in diameter, and from thirty-five to forty in height. There are also two superb pillars of porphyry at the entrance of the court. The mosque of Sultan Bajazet is rich in ancient columns of granite, porphyry, verde antico, aud marble: Two of them, within the mosque, are thirty feet high, and five feet in diameter. In the mosque called Osmania are pillars of Egyptian granite, twenty-two feet high, and three feet in diameter; and near it is the celebrated sarcophagus of red porphyry, called the tomb of Constantine, nine feet long, seven feet wide, and five feet thick, of one entire mass. This mosque is also famous for its painted glass, and is paved with marble. In the mosque of Sultan Achmed are columns of verde antico, Egyptian granite, and white marble. Several antique vases of glass and earthenware are also there suspended, exactly as they were in the temples of the ancients with the votive offerings.

In a mosque at Tophana was exhibited the dance of the dervishes; and in another, at Scutary, the exhibition of the howling priests; ceremonies so extraordinary, that it is neces

sary to see them, in order to believe that they are really practised by human beings, as acts of devotion. We saw them both; and first were conducted to behold the dance at Tophana.

As we entered the mosque, we observed twelve or fourteen dervishes walking slowly round, before a superior, in a small space surrounded with rails, beneath the dome of the building. Several spectators were stationed on the outside of the railing; and being, as usual, ordered to take off our shoes, we joined the party. In a gallery over the entrance were stationed two or three performers on the tambourine and Turkish pipes. Presently the dervishes, crossing their arms over their breasts, and with each of their hands grasping their shoulders, began obeisance to the superior, who stood with his back against the wall, facing the door of the mosque. Then each, in succession, as he passed the superior, having finished his bow, began to turn round, first slowly, but afterward with such velocity, that his long garments flying out in the rotatory motion, the whole party appeared spinning like so many umbrellas upon their handles. As they began, their hands were disengaged from their shoulders, aud raised gradually above their heads. At length, as the velocity of the whirl increased, they were all seen with their arms extended horizontally, and their eyes closed, turning with inconceivable rapidity. The music, accompanied by voices, served to animate them; while a steady old fellow, in a green pelisse, continued to walk among them, with a fixed countenance, and expressing as much care and watchfulness as if his life would expire with the slightest failure in the ceremony. I noticed a method they all observed in the exhibition; it was that of turning one of their feet with the toes as much inward as possible, at every whirl of the body, while the other foot kept its natural position. The elder of these dervishes appeared to me to perform the task with so little labour or exertion, that, although their bodies were in violent agitation, their countenances resembled those of persons in an easy sleep. The younger part of the dancers moved with no less velocity than the others; but it seemed in them a less mechanical operation. This extraordinary exercise continued for the space of fifteen minutes; a length of time, it might be supposed, sufficient to exhaust life itself during such an exertion; and our eyes began to ache with the sight of so many objects all turning one way. Suddenly, on a signal given by the directors of the dance, unobserved by the spectators, the dervishes all stop

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