of gladiators" had fought there at the public games, when Au relius Gratus was Asiarch.* ΦΑΜΙΛΙΑ ΜΟΝΟ ΜΑΧΩΝ ΚΑΙΥΠΟ ΜΝΗΜΑ ΚΥΝΗΓΕ ΣΙΩΝΝΕΜΕΡΙΟΥ ΚΑΣΤΡΙΚΙΟΥΠΑΚΩ ΝΙΑΝΟΥΑΣΙΑΡΧΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΑΥΡΗΛΙΑΣ ΣΑΠΦΟΥΣΠΛΑ ΤΩΝΟΣ ΛΙΚΙΝΝΙΑ ΝΗΣΑΡΧΙΕΡΕΙΗΣ ΓΥΝΑΙΚΟΣΑΥΤΟΥ All these islands, and the neighbouring coast of Asia Minor produced illustrious men. Samos gave birth to Pythagoras. Cos had her Apelles, and Hippocrates, whose tables of medical report were consulted by the inhabitants of all the neighbouring states. Their names have survived the fall of their country and of her empire, and that of the latter is still venerated in the island. It would have been well for many individuals of the British Army and Navy, if the rules of Hippocrates respecting diet had been observed, during the time they remained exposed to the climate of the Levant. He prohibited the use of eggs; and these are as poison to the natives of our island who visit the eastern shores of the Mediterranean.† We set out upon asses, accompanied by guides, to ascend the heights of the island, and view the fountain whence the town is still supplied with water, by means of an aqueduct. It is upon a mountain about three miles from the shore, and still bears the name of Hippocrates. The cover of the aqueduct is broken, in many places, by the women of the island, in procuring water to wash their linen. As we ascended, we had a fine prospect of the numerous adjacent islands, and of the opposite coast of Halicarnassus, now called Bûdrûnț. We follow Rocuil d'Antiquites, tom. ii. p. 219. Par. 1756. † Pofessor Pallas, writing from the Crimea, when we were about to sai! from Constantinople for the Grecian isles, gave us this caution; Have a care of the three poisons? eggs, butter, and milk !"-I was afterward witness to the loss of a british officer, among many other examples of a similar nature, who, after persisting in the use of eggs for his breakfast, was seized with a fever off the coast of Egypt, became delirious, and during the night, leaped from his cabin into the sea and was drowned. Captain Russe of the Ceres, lamented by all who knew him, also fell a victim to the inattention paid, in this respect, to his diet. If any doubt should exist whether Budrûn were the ancient Halicarnassus, or not, it might be removed at once by this circumstance; Strabo points out the situation of the island Arconnesus; and the small island opposite the fort of Bûdrûn is now called Arconneso. The general appearance of the place, moreover, agrees with the detailed ed the course marked out by the aqueduct, all the way to the top of the mountain, where the spring rises. Some plants were then in bloom, but the spring was not so forward as we expected it to be; and I have since found, that, even in Egypt, a botanist will find few specimens for his herbary before the latdescription Vitruvius has given us of the situation of Halicarnassus, in his second book. The entrance to the port of Bûdrûn is from the southwest; on the right and left as you enter, sand has accumulated, and the free passage is not more than sixty yards wide; on the northwest side many Greeks and Turks were at work, employed in building a line of battle ship; this I went to see. The Turk who conducted me over the vessel had been in Egypt at the time when our navy was there, and mentioned the names of some of the officers. The palace of Halil-bey, the governor, stands by the seaside, on the north of the port; and directly opposite stands the castle of Bûdrûn, and round the harbour the town extends, in a circular sweep, for nearly half a mile. "Bûdrûn is a corruption, through Petrumi, as the Turks write it, from Pietro. The Fort of San Pietro, Castellum Sncti Petri, (see the geography of Niger, 441,) was taken by Philibert de Nailar, grand master of Rhodes, and followed the fortunes of this island. It continued in possession of the knights, until, as the Turkish annals infor us, it was surrendered to the Ottomans, with Cos and Rhodes, in the 929th year of Hegira, and 1522 A. C. Cum Rhode Turci arcem stancoin ct Bedrum aliam arcem in Anatolia sitam in potestamen redegere." Leunclavius, p. 342. "Few travellers, I believe, have been able to examine the inside of the castle of Bûdrûn. I had entered, and advanced some way, when I was obliged to return, by order of a Turk, who made his appearance; but not before I had taken the following notes: In the first court, coming from the town, I saw some marble bas-reliefs fastened in the wall, in its construction; their manner and style were very good; but one in particular struck me. It represents, on the right hand, a man on horseback, with a cloak round his neck, like that on the figure on the lamp engraven by Beger, in his letter to Spanheim; he is throwing a javelin against another, who is at the head of the horse with a shield: on the left of the stone is the foot of a man upon the body of another who is supporting himself on his left knee. In the wall by the sea, washing the sides of the castle, is an imperfect inscription, relating to Antoninus Pius; ΚΑΙΣΑΡΙΑΔΡΙΑΝΩΙΑΝΤΩΝΕΙΝΩΙΣΕΒΑΣΤΩΙ ΚΑΙ ΘΕΟΙΣΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΙΣ "Not far from this, is the headless statue of a Roman emperor or warrior Over a gate in the castle. I copied the following times, in capital letters, with a stop after each word. The two first lines are taken from the anthem after the Nunc Dim ittis in Complin, or the night prayers of the Roman church. The two last are taken from the 127th Psalm. I. H. S. Salva nos, Domine, vigilantes, ~ Nisi dominus custodierit civitatem, "Coats of arms, of different knights of the order of St. John, may be seen sculptured in parts of the fortress. Coronelli says, that over a gate was written Propter fidem Catholicam tenemus istum locum: and, in another place, the word Sareuboure, with the date 1130; this points to an æra prior to that of the knights of Jerusalem, who did not possess it till the fourteenth century. Whence the bas-reliefs in the castle came; to what building they belonged; whether to the palace of Mausolus, built on this spot, according to the description of Vitruvius, and beautided with marble (proconnesio marmore), or to some building of the time of Antorinus, to whom the inscription was raised, cannot be determined. I was copying another inscription, beginning OENAONEPXOMENOΣ, of a very late date, when I was obliged to quit the castle. The situation of the famous mausoleum in Halicarnassus is pointed out by Vitruvius. It seems to have been standing in the time of Pausanias, lib. viii. The words of Constantine Porphyrogenetes, de Them. c. 14. do not directly inform us whether it was extant when he wrote. Perhaps the Saracen Mavias, who succeeded Othman, and who, as the same Constantine informs us, laid waste Halicarnassus, (de Admın. Linp,) ter end of April, or beginning of May. At length we arrived at the entrance of a cave formed with great art, partly in the solid rock, and partly with stone and stucco, in the side of the mountain. Within this cave is an arched passage; at the bottom of this the water flows through a narrow channel, clear as may have hastened the destruction of this building. We find Lorenzo Anania, in his Cosmography, Venet. 1576, writing of it in these terms: Appare ancora qualche ruina con non poca maraviglia dei risguardanti: but it does not appear upon what authority this is stated. Without offering any eonjecture, I shall describe what remains of antiquity I observed bere. Those who wish to see the form of the ancient Mausoleum. may consult the twenty-sixth volume of the Acad. des Inscriptions, where Caylus has attempted a delineation of it, from Pliny. "About four hundred yards from the castle, to the east, are six Doric columns. fluted, supporting an architrave: the grouud seems to have been raised round about them, as they are little more than seven feet in height. In the yard of a Turk's house, close by, are some fragments of pillars, fluted; and, what is very singular, in the Auted parts are large Greek letters, beautifully cut. "I copied on one the words Χαριδήμου, Αθηνοδώρου, and μαράτου, part, probably, of the name Demaratus; who were, doubtless, persons commemorated in this manner. In this instance, the pillar, bearing the names, is circular; but the Athenians were accustomed to inscribe square pillars to the memory of wise and virtuous men, in large letters. Hence a man of probity among them was termed Terpάywvos ȧvnp. "I traced the ancient walls of the city of Halicarnassus for some distance, beginning with what might have been an acropolis; for the city had more than one acropolis as we learn from Strabo and Diodorus, (Lib. xvii. άxpomóλɛσ xalaïs). This wall L followed in a western direction, between a small and large mound, for about a hun dred and thirty feet: it then turned in a northeast direction, and afterward north. One of the ruined square towers, built of stone, without cement on the outside, and filled within with earth, is thirty feet high. I saw four more communicating with each other by an interval of wall. These are what Diodorus, writing of Halicarnassus, calls Túрyol, and μεσOTúpyio. Near the ruined square tower I saw some of the vaults of the old city, and copied some inscriptions relating to them. In the town are to be seen altars of marble, with the usual ornament of the festoon with rams' heads. "The fast of the Ramadan was not quite over when I was at Bûdrûn. The opulent Turks were sitting, in the day time, counting their beads, and the hours anxiously until sunset. The caravanserai I lived in was occupied partly by Jews it was not to be compared in size with other buildings of the king which i has seen in Asia. In some of these, the pillars, supporting the valeries are columns of ancient edifices; as for instance, at Malase, the ancient Mylasa. "I went over to Cos, from Halicarnassus, the twenty-eighth of November, in a Turkish passage boat, which sails every day, if the weather is fine. In the bottom of the boat sat some Turkish women, of whose bodies nothing was to be seen, but the extremities of their fingers, dyed red. The east side of the island of Cos is mountainous: close to the town are orange and lemon plantations: from these the fruit is exported in abundance to all parts of the Archipelago. The island has suffered occasionally from earthquakes; particularly from one at the end of the fifteenth century, as Bosio informs us; and one in the time of Antoninus entirely destroyed the town, as we learn from Pau sanias, (lib. viii.) which, however, was restored, at great expense, by the emperor, who sent a colony there. This circumstance of the destruction of the town may lead us to suspect the antiquity of the monuments of art now to be seen there; and, indeed, maay of the inscriptions are of a late age: they are all in Doric; this was the dialect of Cos and Halicarnassus: but although it was the native language of Herodotus and Hippocrates, they preferred the open vowels of Lonia. In an inscription near the castle and a mosque, I observed ΤΟΣ ΕΟΣΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΣ ; this form may be also seen in the monuments, in Doric, published by Gruter (505) and Chishull. The use of the O for the Or lasted in the other dialects of Greece from the time of Cadmus to the Ma cedonian æra. (Taylor ad Mar. San.) There are many bas-reliefs to be seen in the streets and in the houses of the town. Porcacchi, in his description of the Archipelago, says of Cos, Ha molti nobili edifizi di marmo antichi: but of these no vestige is extant. Votive offerings in honour of Esculapius, whose temple, according to Strabo, stood in the suberb, may be observed. Near a mosque is a cylindrical piece of marble, with four sculplured figures, dancing, winged, and holding a wreath of flowers. A plane tree, twenty-seven feet in circumference, whose branches are supported by seven columns, stands near the walls of the castle. Hasselquist, the naturalist, says, I imagine, in seeing it, to have beheld the largest, oldest, and most remarkable in We crystal. It conducts to a lofty vaulted chamber, cut in the rock, and shaped like a bee-hive, with an aperture at the top, admitting air and light from the surface of the mountain. proceeded with lighted tapers to this curious cavern, and tasted the water at its source. It is a hot spring, with a chaly beate habitant of the vegetable kingdom; it has forty-seven branches, each a fathom thick. "I rode to a village two hours and a half distant from the town, called Affendiou, perhaps the standio of Porcacchi; on the road I copied many Greek inscriptions. In returning to the town by a different direction, we came to a source of cold mineral wa ter; at half an hour's distance from this, above in the rock, is a source or not water, where there are remains of basins, wherein those who used the water were accustomed to bathe. In half an hour more we came to the place called the fountain of Hippocrates; a light was procured, and we walked into a passage fifty yards in length, six. feet high, and four wide; at the bottom ran a stream of water, in a channel five inches broad; we reached at last a circular chamber, ten feet in diameter; this is built quite near the source. The water running from beneath the circular chamber, through the channel, is conveyed, as soon as it reaches the open air, by another channel, covered with tile and stone, over a space of ground equal to four miles, and supplies the town of Cos. "The road from Affendiou to the town is very striking. The fertility of the island is celebrated now in the Levant, as in the days of Strabo, who calls it süxaρπos : and the language of Thevet would have appeared perfectly correct, if I had been there at a different season of the year: Et pense que soubz le ciel n'y a lieu plaisant que celuy là, veu les beaux jardins si odoriferans, que vous diriez que c'est un Paradis terrestre, et là où les oiseaux de toutes sortes recréent de leur ramage.' See his Cosmography, 229. Whilst I was at Cos, I took a boat, and went to see what I supposed to be the ruins of Myndus; where, among other interesting remains, is a long jettee of stones, parallel to each other, and principally of thirteen feet in length, connecting an island to the main land. I went also to the ruins of Cnidus, at Cap Crio. It was the first of December, and we had hardly time to enter one of the small harbours of Cnidus, when a gale from the southwest, the wind usual at this time of the year, began to blow, The libs, or southwest,' says Theophrastus, (de Ventis, 413) is very violently felt at Cnydus and Rhodes and one of the harbours of Cnidus is open to this quarter. There is no village or appearance of habitation now at Cnidus. I lay in the open boat all night, and the Turkish sailors in a cave on shore. The following are the reDains of antiquity I observed there. "On the left-hand side of the harbour, as you enter from Cos, upon a platform, are the lower parts of the shafts of eleven fluted columns, standing, and of very small dimensions: around the platform is a ruined wall; a sort of quay was formed round this port, as may be inferred from the stonework. Beyond the fluted columns are vaults of very modern work, and vestiges of buildings; these may be ascribed to the time when the knights of St. John were at Rhodes, and had stations on the coast of Asia in this part. Passing on eastward, you come to the theatre, facing the southwest, with thirty-six rows of seats of marble; part of the proscenium; two vaults, opposite each other; and in the area of the theatre the mutilated statue of a woman, in drapery ; the head of this, as one of the Turkish boatmen informed me, had been taken to a neighbouring village, to be hollowed for a mortar. On the level summit of the hill over the theatre, and commanding a view of the sea, are very large remains of a temple: the side of the hill is faced with stone; the ground is covered with fragments of white marble columns, with Ionic capitals. I measured one of the columns; this was in diameter three feet and a half. The Cnidians had, according to Pausanias, many temples of Venus; and we may conjecture this to have been the site of one. Below the hill is a large area: and under it, a larger still. An isthmus separates the small port, wherein I anchored, from a larger harbour. Following this neck of land in a westerly direction, you reach the other part of the town, opposite to that where the theatre and public buildings were situated. A bridge, says Pausanias, once formed the communication from one side to the other. There are extensive foundations lying to the east of the theatre and temple; but I was not able to find any inscription or money of the ancient city. The earthenware of Cnidus is praised by Athenæus (lib. i.); and the catami or reeds, which grew here, were the best, says Pliny, after those of Egypt. The use of reeds for writing prevails now, as formerly, all over the east; and they are prepared as in ancient times. With a knife,' says Salmasiùs, the reed was slit into two points; hence, in an epigram, we ând, κάλαμοι δισσοϊσί διάγλυπτοι κεράεσσι, κα lami in duos apices scissi. Ad Solinum." Walpole's MS. Journal, flavour, gushing violently from the rock into a small bason. In its long course through the aqueduct, although it flows with great rapidity, it becomes cool and refreshing before it reaches the town, and perhaps owes something of its great celebrity to its medicinal properties. The work constructed over it may be as old as the age of Hippocrates; setting aside all the notions. propagated concerning the supposed epocha of domes and arches. At any rate, it is an interesting fact, that in an island famous for having produced the Father of Medicine, the principal object of curiosity still bearing traditionary reference to his name should be a warm chalybeate spring. 1 Descending from this fountain, I saw, for the first time, the date tree, growing in its natural state. A few of these trees may be noticed in gardens about the town. Lemons were very abundant; but oranges not so common. We purchased the former at the rate of about three shillings for a thousand, notwithstanding the very great demand then made for them to supply the British fleet. The island of Cos is very large, and for the most part consists of one barren mountain of limestone; of this substance almost all the Grecian islands are composed. There are few parts of the world where masses of limestone are seen of equal magnitude and elevation. Some of the principal mountains exhibit no other mineral, from their bases to their summits. The Greek sailors of our vessel, who accompanied us upon this expedition, caught several land tortoises: these,.. being opened, were full of eggs. The sailors described them as the most delicious food in the country. We found afterward that boat loads of these animals were taken to supply the markets of Constantinople. We saw them cooked after we returned on board, but could not so far abandon our prejudices as to taste them. A poor little shopkeeper în Cos was described, by the French consul, as possessor of several curious old books. We therefore went to visit him, and were surprised to find him, in the midst of his wares, with a red nightcap on his head, reading the Odyssey of Homer in manuscript. This was fairly written upon paper, with interlineary criticisms, and a commentary in the margin. He had other manuscript volumes, containing works upon rhetoric, poetry, history, and theology. Nothing could induce him to part with any of these books. The account he gave was, that some of them were copies of originals in the library at Patmos, (among these I observed the Apoalypse, with a commentary ;) and that his father had brought |