REMARKS

ON

NORTH WALES.

As every one now, who has either traversed a steep mountain, or crossed a small channel, must publish some remarks, it would be almost unpardonable in me to be totally silent, who have visited the most uninhabited regions of North Wales,who have seen lakes, rivers, seas, rocks, and precipices at immeasurable distances,-and who, from observation and experience, can inform the world that high hills are very difficult of access, and the tops of them generally very cold.

But ancient Britain has a kind of hereditary claim upon me, as I have the honour to boast of my origin from thence; and as the name and exploits of some of my ancestors continually occur through the wild heroic pages of Welsh fable or history.

This journey was undertaken rather late in the autumn of 1776; the season proving remarkably favourable. Neither rains nor winds impeded my progress; the air on the mountains was left rarified by the summer's heat; the sun shone out all the

day on Cader Idris; and Snowdon had not begun to fortify himself against this almost winter approach.

I set out from Shrewsbury for Welsh Pool; the last eight miles of the journey affording a most beautiful prospect of a rich vale in Montgomeryshire. The vales throughout this county are remarkably pleasant; but they have been so frequently described, that it is almost superfluous to observe that they abound with corn, and are luxuriant in pasturage.

Welsh Pool, the county town of Montgomeryshire, possesses a good market; but though the Severn is navigable to the quay of Welsh Pool, which is within two miles of the town, there is scarcely ever any fish; even salmon is never under twelve-pence a pound. It takes its name from a contemptible black pool, which is said to be unfathomable, and of which there is a prophecy that it shall, some time or other, overflow and deluge the town. This prophecy is still believed in Wales.

About a mile from hence stands, on an eminence, Powis castle, or Red castle, from the colour of the stones on which it is built.* The situation

* Though originally built with stones of a dusky red colour, it has been much plastered over with red lime, presenting to the eye, at a distance, the appearance of ill-coloured brick. Other tasteless innovations, too, have been effected; such as substituting for the antient mullioned windows, the despicable and in

of it is certainly very noble; but I cannot agree with Lord Lyttleton, that three thousand pounds would make it the most august place in the kingdom; there is much to be done in the mere approach, and at present you are obliged to ask where the Severn runs. The ground is laid out in that formal style of gardening that was brought in by the Prince of Orange at the Revolution, and there will be much difficulty in altering it with propriety. A common Undertaker in Taste. would immediately convert the clipt hedges and true-love knots into a gaudy and unmeaning shrubbery, but to decorate this spot to advantage, the Genius of the place only must be consulted; "the parts should every where be connected with each other, and must likewise bear a reference to the whole."* On my return to Pool, I ordered a carriage to convey me to Llanvair, which was to be my last stage on known ground. The road was perfectly good, the people in general spoke English, and their civility was so re

Since Mr. Cradock

consistent sashed ones of a modern cottage. visited the Castle, the gardens have been judiciously deprived of theclipt hedges," and other formally-cut shrubs and trees; but it still retains the extensive parallel terraces, square slopes, and other cold features of that school of landscape gardening.EDIT.

* Pope.

+ It is generally preferred by travellers to Montgomery, as the new road to Newtown is very pleasing.-EDIT.

markable, that the very turnpike-man seemed grateful for the toll. I was here most strongly recommended to a good house, about twelve miles distant, but found it only a miserable hut; I therefore pressed onwards as fast as possible, and, after some difficulties, arrived at Dinas Mowddwy.*

* This place has attracted the particular notice of Mr. Pennant, Mr. Skrine, and the Rev. J. Evans; and has been interestingly described by Mr. Hutton, whose witticisms, however, appear to have given offence to the more sentimental mind of Mr. Evans. I cannot but think the readers of Mr. Cradock's remarks will be gratified by having those of Mr. Hutton annexed.-EDIT. "Curiosity led me to count the houses, which were forty-five. One of these, by far the best, is worth, at a fair rent, perhaps 50s. per annum. This, I concluded, must be the parsonage, for who would deny the best to the priest? but, finding there was no church, I understood this mansion was dignified with The Hall.' In most of the houses I perceived that the inhabitants could not injure themselves by falling down stairs. Although in England I appeared like other men, yet at Dinas Mowddwy I stood single. The people eyed me as a phenomenon, with countenances mixed with fear and inquiry. Perhaps they took me for an inspector of taxes; they could not take me for a window-peeper, for there were scarcely any to peep at, and the few I saw were in that shattered state which proved there was no glazier in the place. Many houses were totally without glass. Ambition here seems wholly excluded. The dress of the inhabitants changes not. It is made for use, not show. That of the softer sex, I was told, is a flannel shift. I did not see the smallest degree of smartness in the apparel, even of the young females. When a man chooses a wife here it must be more for the kernell than the shell. I have reason to think their style of living is as plain as their dress, for a swelling in front, from luxury, is rarely