RERE TOWN, Monday, February 20th.-Special prayer meeting this morning to ask of God to bless and prosper our journey to Giriama. The room was well filled. There was one prayer in English and another in Kisuaheli. Then came the mustering and sending off our porters with their loads: a good two hours' work. We started in the Alice at 1 P.M., reaching the landing at Makerungi at 5. The donkeys were there, but we chose to walk. It is only a distance of about seven miles to Ribe, but that in Africa to a man just recovering from fever, and quite out of training, is no joke.

Incidents of the Journey.

Wednesday, February 22nd.-Reached our camping ground, near the village of Makulungu, a little before 6. Up go our tents, and out come the natives, headed by their chief, to admire and wonder at everything they see. The rapidity with which our houses (tents) were raised,

and everything put shipshape, drew forth exclamations of surprise; but the great sight was Shaw changing his damp clothes. Those of them who were fortunate enough to see him stripped had something to talk about for a long time to come.

We saw several companies of men to-day on their way from Giriama to Rabbai for tembo. They carry calabashes full of Indian corn, which they exchange for an equal measure of the intoxicating liquor of which they are so fond, and which is the curse of the country. The traffic at this season is always going on, and a large proportion of the male population have little else to do. They think nothing of going forty or fifty miles for a few gallons of this poisonous stuff. This love of drink, or rather the drunken habits of the people, can scarcely fail to be a formidable obstacle to the spread of the Gospel amongst them. It is the "strong man armed," but thanks be to God there is "a stronger than he," and in Him is our hope.

Have been thinking much as to the best way of bringing the Gospel fairly before these poor people. In a journey such as we are now taking, with a special object in view, little or nothing can be done. We ourselves-all our movements, and all our little contrivances a folding chair-a good lantern-the striking fire from a match-all fill them with astonishment. It will take time and frequent visits before they can be brought to regard the Wazungu [foreigners] as ordinary individuals, whose only object in coming to them is to tell of God's love, and point them the way of life. And yet though they are such a simple folk they are by no means wanting in intelligence, and there is nothing to preclude the hope of their becoming new creatures in Christ Jesus" when once their hearts are opened by the Holy Spirit.

66

Thursday, February 23rd.-Had all packed up and made a start at 6 A.M. Two hours and a half brought us to a resting-place, just on the edge of a forest, of twelve miles in extent, which lies between us and Godoma. We brought a little water with which Pinto managed to cook our break

fast, but there was none for our poor men. We found a small pit containing a few tumblers of very muddy water, but we wanted as many gallons that each one might have a little; so out with pickaxe and spade, and to it with a will to enlarge the hole, and woo the precious fluid into it. Alas, it was labour in vain, as far as we were concerned, though we had done a good work for other poor thirsty travellers who may follow us. So our porters had to shoulder their loads again, and press on in the hope of better things further on. I took a photo. of the men at work, searching for water in the wilderness-not an uncommon incident in African travel during the dry hot season. It struck me as rather a good and suggestive illustration of Ps. lxiii. 2-"a dry and thirsty land where no water is." (See the picture opposite.)

Our way now lay through the forest, not an English forest with fine old giant oaks and elms, but a forest of rather stunted trees, many of them covered with climbing plants, and thick enough, for the most part, to shade the path from the fierce rays of the sun; whilst here and there were open glades where he took his revenge and made us pant. At length we came to two pits containing a plentiful supply of water. Very dirty and muddy it looked, but it was as nectar to our jaded, thirsty porters; and we, too, drank freely of it, asking no questions and shutting our eyes. The traveller in Africa must not be too dainty. Another hour's trudging, and we were as thirsty as before.

I was in front, when turning a corner I suddenly found myself in the midst of a group of cocoa-nut palms, loaded with clusters of young fruit. "Mdafu, mdafu!" I shouted, and in a few moments the porters had deposited their loads, and were climbing like monkeys the tall stems, and sending down a shower of nuts. Each nut is full of delicious liquid, clear as crystal, and oh, what a treat we had. We emptied about thirty or forty, when the owner of the trees coming on the scene, we made him happy with a new jembe-a common native spade or hoe. After a short rest we started for the last stage of our journey, and reached Godoma in good time to put up tents, and make all snug before sunset.

At Mwaiba; proposed new station.

Saturday, February 25th.-Started early for Mwaiba, the place which has been purchased with the view of making it a central station for the Giriama country. It lies about seven miles in a south-easterly direction from Godoma. A pleasant ride through forest and plain, over a succession of hills and valleys, brought us to the village, very prettily situated on the crest of the elevated spot which goes by the name of Mwaiba. We passed through several good large villages on our way, and created a great sensation wherever we came. Men left their tembo, and women their waterpots and mills, and followed by troops of children came running out of their villages to see the strange "Wazungu pass. Having got one sight of us, they took short cuts across the fields to be in time for another, and thus they followed us for a mile or two on the road, There was no rudeness or incivility, but simply irresistible curiosity. Only few

FIRAJI. JEREMIAH. ABE SIDI. THE THREE CHIEF MEN AT FULLADOYO.

(Photographed by the Rev. W. S. Price.)

GALLA WOMEN, EAST AFRICA. (Photographed by the Rev. W. S. Price.)

white men have passed this way, and many of them had not had a chance of seeing one before. Nothing seemed to astonish them more than my taking off my helmet. It seemed to them as if I had removed the top of my head.

We got to Mwaiba for breakfast, and spent the day there, putting up under the shade of a lemon tree. The place is about 600 feet above the sea, has a supply of good water not far distant, occupies a commanding view of the surrounding country, has a number of villages within easy distance, and altogether seems to be a most eligible spot for a centre of evangelistic work amongst the Giriama people. I feel that no time should be lost in occupying this important post. What a splendid sphere for a young missionary whose heart is in his work!

From Godoma to Fulladoyo.

Sunday, February 26th.-Spent the day at Godoma. The Christians, who are scattered about in villages five or six miles distant, came in with wives and children for the day to attend the services, which, in the absence of a catechist, are regularly kept up by Petros. We had service at 11 A.M. The place was well filled, and a good many Wanika gathered round the doors and windows. I endeavoured to set before them "the Son of man lifted up." May God the Holy Spirit make it a word

in season.

As we are a large party we are sorely off for water, and our men have already drained out most of the few pits on which the people depend for their supply; so as a matter of necessity, and not to cause a dearth in the land, we struck our tents and packed up our things after sunset, and started on a night march to Fulladoyo, a distance of about twenty miles. This was all the more expedient as we were warned that there was no water on the way, and in the daytime our men would have been greatly distressed. We had a good moon, but at times the forest was so thick, and the way so dark, that progress was difficult, and we got not a few scratches and rents from the prickly cactus which here abounds. On, on we went for about twelve miles, when we came

to a small open space in the jungle, where we were all glad to take a rest. It was no place or time for pitching tents, so I threw myself on my kitanda [camp bedstead]-Shaw under his-drew down my curtain to keep off the heavy dew, and committing myself and companions to the Heavenly Father's care, slept soundly till 5 A.M. Our tired and thirsty men set down their burdens and were soon fast asleep, dreaming no doubt of the pure waters of Fulladoyo, which they hope to enjoy to-morrow.

Monday, February 27th.-Started at 6 A.M., and after a good march of three hours reached Fulladoyo. We got into a deep wide valley, surrounded by not very high hills, and presenting the appearance of a great amphitheatre, glorying in all kinds of tropical verdure. At the bottom of the valley we came to a river, on reaching which our men fired off their guns to give warning of our approach, which were quickly replied to from the other side. The river is about twenty feet wide at this season, and is covered with a beautiful lily in full blossom. The very sight of the clear, bright liquid was refreshing after our weary march; and more so still the warm reception we met with from the people of Fulladoyo.

Several large trees had been felled and laid from bank to bank to form a bridge for us to cross the river; and a wide road had been cleared through the thick wood which leads up thence to their village. So much evidence of energy and public spirit I have seen nowhere else in Africa. A great crowd was collected on the opposite bank, and as we stepped from the bridge on to Fulladoyo ground a shout of joy rang through the forest and echoed among the hills, which produced sensations in me which I shall never forget, but which I cannot describe. Then came the shaking of hands. Men and women crowded upon us, each one eager for a shake, and "yambo, yambo sana" greeted us on all sides.

The Christian Settlement at Fulladoyo.

On emerging from the wood we came at once upon a large village, or rather a small town; the best built and most orderly kept of any I have seen in this country. I had rather expected to find here a large number of half-wild and desperate men-the scum of the population-slaves who having run away from their masters were herded together here in disorder and confusion. On the contrary, I found a comfortably settled and well ordered community, meeting together morning and evening in a place of worship, which they have put up at their own cost, to hear the Word of God, and join in prayer and praise. I saw, too, on all sides the signs of industry and prosperity. There was altogether an air of uncommon respectability about the place. The houses are neatly and strongly built, and the shambas are well cultivated and rich with Indian corn and other grain and fruits. They put us up in a nicely thatched unfinished shed in the centre of the village, which we liked all the more because it was quite open at both ends, thus giving us plenty of air. The only disadvantage of this arrangement was that crowds of Wanika flocked in upon us the day through to feast their eyes on the wondrous" Wazungu," and it was next to impossible to get a few moments of privacy to ourselves. Towards evening the people of the place, one by one, began to come in, bringing us presents of such things as they had. I never saw anything like it before. I counted about thirty fowls, some dozens of eggs, a goat, and enough rice and ground Indian corn to feast our men all the way back. I really felt ashamed to receive these things, and yet they were given evidently with such good will, that one felt it would pain them if one refused their offerings; so I accepted them, mentally resolving to repay them in some way or other without appearing to do so.

Tuesday, February 28th.-Rose early and scrambled into our clothes as best we could under the gaze of the ever curious Wanika, who had already begun to put in an appearance. At 6.30 A.M. the bell rung for prayers, and in a few minutes the large room was full and the verandahs too. I thought it better to let Abi Sidi conduct the service as usual. After a hymn, which was heartily sung, Abi Sidi read, and made remarks upon a few verses from Gen. vi., and in simple and earnest language set forth Jesus Christ as the true ark of refuge, provided by a merciful God for perishing sinners. Then followed the prayers: a selection from the Book of Common Prayer, of which now, thanks to Bishop Steere, we have a fair translation; and very touching and soul-stirring it was to hear them all as with one voice joining in the Confession, Lord's Prayer, and General Thanksgiving. I wish my congregation at Wingfield could have heard them. The usual morning prayer ended, I gave a short address, and was followed by Shaw, after which G. David concluded with a suitable extempore prayer. I never witnessed greater decorum and attention in any congregation, which is much to say when we consider who and what those poor people lately were-and what in fact they still are-runaway slaves.

I turned my back on Fulladoyo with a feeling of intense thankfulness to God for all I have seen and heard. I cannot help feeling that here we have the beginning af a great movement, and one that bids fair to do more to give a death-blow to the wretched slave system of this country than all your treaties and men-of-war. May God in His good Providence overrule it, so that multitudes of these poor people who have thrown off the yoke of their oppressors may be brought to the knowledge of Jesus Christ and be made "free indeed."

THE STORY OF THE LIFE OF DR. KRAPF,
The Pioneer-Missionary of East Africa.
TOLD BY HIMSELF.

VI. LABOURS AND TRIALS AMONG THE WANIKA.
UGUST 25th, 1847.—It is a year to-day since we arrived
here. How much grace and mercy has the Lord shown to
his servants during this year! How mightily has He pre-
served us within and without! By His aid we have had

access to this people; have built a habitation to dwell in, and above all, have raised a humble fane, though but a poor hut, for worship; have laid out a small garden, and opened a school. We have made tolerable proficiency in the language, prepared books for the people,

preached the Gospel to many Wanika, Wakamba, and Suahili, and become acquainted with the manner and customs, the prejudices, and, in short, with the good and evil qualities, as well as the geographical relations of these tribes, by which means our allotted task in Eastern Africa has become clearer to us.

October 14th. This evening Rebmann set forth on his journey to Kadiaro. We read Isaiah xlix., and prayed together, asking a blessing upon our work, and beseeching that this journey might be made effectual towards the extension of the Gospel in the interior.

October 25th.-I had the pleasure of welcoming the return of my beloved fellow-labourer Rebmann from Kadiaro in good health. He was the bearer of much valuable information, and stated that the Teita people had given him a friendly reception, with permission to dwell among them, and preach the Gospel. This so powerfully raised my spirits to-day, that I thought earnestly and deeply upon the extension of our missionary labours. Oh, that we had men and means enough for the noble field which is opening upon us! A missionary often shares in common the desires and aspirations of a great conqueror.

November 14th.-At the commencement of public worship to-day, there were some twenty persons present, who left us, however, as soon as we had finished the singing, which Rebmann accompanied on the flageolet. The harvest is small, yet we will not despond, but trust to Him who can animate the dead and awaken them to a new and better life! Rebmann had also composed a hymn in the Kinika language, which we sang during the service. The following is one of the verses :

January 11th, 1818.-To-day the completion of my English-Suahili and Kinika Dictionary closes a long and troublesome labour. My task will now be, (1) to make a copy of this dictionary; (2) to continue my translation of the New Testament, and of Dr. Barth's "Bible Stories"; (3) to make, daily, an excursion to the plantations of the Wanika, and preach to them; (4) to instruct such Wanika children as wish for instruction; (5) to address the Wanika of the district, and to devote myself to those who visit us at our home from far and near; and (6) from time to time to make journeys into the interior, in order to become acquainted with its geographical and ethnological peculiarities and languages, preaching the Gospel as far as can be done on these journeys, and thus pave the way for the mission in the interior, when we shall have received more fellowlabourers from Europe.

March 9th. This morning, two old Wanika women, as self-righteous as any persons in Europe can be, paid me a visit. When I spoke of the evil heart of man one of the women said: "Who has been slandering me to you? I have a good heart, and know of no sin." The old woman said: "I came to you to ask for a garment, and not to listen to your manens (discourse)." A Wanika said: "If I am to be always praying to your Lord, how can I look after my plantation ? "

March 17th. It was inwardly made manifest to me to-day, that for some time past I have attacked too fiercely the heathen customs and superstitions of the Wanika, the sight of the abominations moving me to indignation; and that I ought to preach more the love of the Redeemer for His sheep lost, and gone astray, or taken captive by Satan. I must bring them closer to the cross of Christ; show more compassion, and let

my words be full of commiseration and pity; looking forward earnestly and prayerfully for the conversion of this hard people more from God's blessing upon the work than from my own activity. It is neither the gifts nor the works, neither the words nor the prayers and feelings of the missionary, but the Lord Jesus alone who can convert a human being. It is He who must say: "Lazarus, come forth," and though bound hand and foot, the dead man will come forth from the grave of sin and death, and live!

April 19th to 21st.-I went to Mombaz to forward Rebmann's journey to Jagga, and to purchase necessaries for it. The governor of the fortress was somewhat dubious on the subject, and was unwilling that Rebmann should undertake the journey, on the ground that it was exposed to many dangers from Galla, Wakuafi, Masai, as well as wild beasts. In any case, said he, he must not ascend the mountain Kilimanjaro, because it is full of evil spirits (Jins). For, said he, people who have ascended the mountain have been slain by the spirits, their feet and hands have been stiffened, their powder has hung fire, and all kinds of disasters have befallen them. I did not then know that there was snow upon the mountain, and therefore merely said that Rebmann would not go too near the fine sand, which, as I then supposed, must have caused the destruction of the people.

April 27th.-To-day, my dear brother Rebmann began his journey to Jagga, and I accompanied him a short way, and committed him to the protection of Almighty God.

May 11th.--I came upon some ten persons, to whom I discoursed upon John iii. A cripple named Mringe wondered, like Nicodemus, when I said, that man must be born again. He asked, how that could be?

May 31st. The cripple Mringe called upon me to-day in Rabbai-Mpia for the first time. I told him that we must acknowledge and worship God, as Father, Son, and Holy Ghost. These were memorable words to him, and made an extraordinary impression.

Africa; and Rebmann resolved to enter on the long, difficult, and dangerous journey.

April 5th.-Rebmann entered on the journey to Uniamesi. April 28th.-Spoke seriously with the chief respecting the indifference of the Wanika, who will not learn even now, after we have procured them books at a great cost; for some time ago we received 500 printed copies each of my Kinika version of the Gospel of Luke, of the Heidelberg Catechism, and of a primer from Bombay, where they had been printed at the expense of the Church Missionary Society.*

June 10th.-Arrival of our brothers Erhardt and Wagner in Mombaz. June 15th.-Poor Erhardt came to Rabbai in quite an exhausted state, and I feared that the fever would terminate fatally; for he was in a much worse plight than Rebmann and myself in 1846.

June 20th.-Erhardt still very ill. Wagner also attacked by fever. June 27th.-To-day Rebmann came back from Jagga. The Lord has preserved him from many and great dangers.

July 1st. The crisis of Erhardt's fever is over, and he is progressing towards convalescence; Wagner, on the contrary, is worse.

July 3rd.-It seems to me necessary, for the sake of future missionaries, that I must learn the Kikamba, Kiteita, Jagga, and Kisambara languages.

August 1st.-Our dear brother Johannes Wagner ended his sufferings yesterday, and was summoned into a better world by the Lord and Giver of life, who in the midst of life hath placed us in death! Incomprehensible at first appeared to us this guidance which so quickly took from us our newly-arrived fellow-labourer; but his very death has brought a blessing to the Wanika, and although dead, he still speaks to them; for they have now, for the first time, seen the death and burial of a Christian, whose joyful hope is in Christ, the life and the resurrection. After I had read the funeral service of the English liturgy, translating it into the

grave, on 1 Thessalonians iv. 13, and finally we sang some verses of a

September 2nd.-I began my translation of the Gospel of St. John into the Kinika language.

September 21st.-I completed the translation of the Gospel of St. John into the Kinika language.

November 19th.-Mringe said he wished to buy a hut, in which he might be alone and gather people round him; so I gave him half a dollar, and with this he got a hut built, in which I visited him. It was impossible for this sick and suffering, but God-seeking man longer to remain in the confined hut of his mother, who had begun to hate him as soon as he commenced to love the Word. His relations, too, despise him, and yet

this poor man cannot work and earn his bread.

November 29th.-Mringe was with me during the night. We discoursed towards midnight about the world to come and the City of God; about the occupations of the blessed, and the incorruptible body of our future state, and many other things. My poor cripple devoured the words as they fell from my lips; and I saw that they made an impression on him, and felt happy indeed, for it is at moments like these that one feels the importance of a missionary's calling. A missionary who feels the working of the Spirit within him, and is upheld in its manifestation to others, is the happiest being upon earth. In his sight what are royal and imperial honours compared with the office of a preacher in the bush or lonely hut?

December 15th.-In great Rabbai there is said to be a kisuka, a little devil, i.e., an image probably of a saint which the Portuguese left behind them after their expulsion from Mombaz, which is now reverenced by the Wanika as a kind of war-god, and is borne round in procession before the outbreak of a war to rouse the warriors to heroic deeds. This is the only idol I have heard of in Eastern Africa, and it remarkably enough comes from an idolatrous Christian church.

February 16th, 1849.-Rebmann returned to-day from his second journey to Jagga. It appears desirable to extend our journeys of exploration by way of Jagga to Uniamesi, and thence to the western coast of

It was on this journey that Rebmann discovered the snow-clad mountain Kilimanjaro, which is 3,000 feet higher than Mont Blanc.

distinction between Christianity and the horrible wailing and other dark practices of heathenism; and so in this way our departed friend did not come in vain into this benighted land.

THE CRY OF THE HEATHEN.

HE Rev. Ruttonji Nowroji, of Aurungabad, in the dominions of the Nizam of Hydrabad, Central India, was preaching with his Christian helpers last year at a town called Paitan, on the River Godavery. There was a great Hindu fair going on, which was attended by thousands of people. He writes:

I

In the great gathering of this celebrated town we have managed to keep our preaching for twelve hours daily, for nearly a week. calculated that at least 10,000 or 12,000 people heard the Gospel message, and never did they hear us with greater attention and pleasure. I have noticed a strange desire on their part to know our religion. There is a restlessness, an increasing restlessness, on the part of the masses, and often have I heard them exclaim, "Oh, do show us the way of salvation! Show us the inner mysteries of your religion. We are far from being happy. We want peace. Our religions do not satisfy us. religion give what ours cannot ?"

Can your

I will mention one instance. A Brahmin, employed as schoolmaster, visited us daily. He had several questions to propose, and he was so earnest that it was a pleasure to converse with him. At the time of parting he put up both his hands-joining them together (which Brahmins never do, except only to Brahmins)-and with moistened eyes he told me, in the presence of a large audience

"Oh, sir, how grateful I am for the trouble you have taken in solving my difficulties, and how much I feel refreshed and comforted. I will remember your kindness to my dying day. I know not when God will permit us to meet each other. But, oh, sir, let me make one request. In all your preaching, and at the conclusion of every religious discourse, call upon my countrymen to learn to read. When they read your Scriptures they will be convinced that Christianity is divine, revealing to sinners God's plan of salvation. I feel so sorry to part with you, but my leave is up, and I must be at my post. But from the bottom of my heart I thank you."

It was a copy of this Kinika St. Luke that Abe Nga took with him to the Giriama country, and which was the origin of the Christian community there. See GLEANER, Jan., 1878.

IN days of old, from England's shore,

Went forth full many a martial band; CRUSADERS was the name they bore, Their destined goal the Holy Land. They went, by ardent zeal impelled, The Holy City to set free; By the fierce Moslem captive held With stern, remorseless cruelty.

ENGLAND AND PALESTINE.
England through all her shores was stirred,
Her sons came out from burgh and hall,
The princely heir the summons heard,
Stout yeomen hastened at the call.
With warlike pomp, in proud array,
Each wearing as his badge a cross,
From hearth and home they sailed away,
Boldly to suffer pain and loss.

The Moslem still rules Palestine,

But travellers from each hemisphere Are free to visit bill and shrine, To countless hearts so strangely dear. There is a small and peaceful band (O might their number sevenfold be!) Who journey to the Holy Land, Intent to make her truly free.