CHAP. III. peasant, as he passed, to sit down in his khabitka, and then they covered him also with the black and stinking mud. At this unexampled instance of cruelty and insult, some of the peasants, more spirited than the rest, ventured to murmur. Instantly, blows, with a heavy cudgel, on the head and shoulders, ..silenced the poor wretches' complaints. Before this began, the two sentinels at the gate had stopped every khabitha, as it passed, with a very different motive. First, a loud and menacing tone of voice seemed to indicate some order of Government; but it was quickly silenced, and became a whisper, in consequence of a small piece of money being slipped into their hands by the peasants; when they passed on without further notice. If the practice continues, the post of sentinel at a Russian barrier must be more profitable than that of a staffofficer in the service. We were witness to upwards of fifty extorted contributions of this nature, in the course of half an hour, when the plunder ended as has been described. A miserable whiskered figure on horseback, intended for a dragoon, was now appointed to conduct us to the Commandant's; and here our poderosnoy, together with our other passports, underwent a second examination. The snow was by this time entirely melted; and the sledge upon which our carriage moved was dragged over the stones by six horses, with so much difficulty, that at last the drivers gave it up, and declared the carriage would break, or the horses drop, if we compelled them to advance. The dragoon said we must take every thing, exactly as we arrived, to the. Commandant's; and proceed sitting in the carriage. At the same time he threatened the peasants with a flagellation; and giving one of them a blow over his loins, bade him halt at his peril. Another effort was of course made, and the sledge flew to pieces. It was highly amusing to observe the dilemma into which the dragoon was now thrown; as it was not probable either his menaces or his blows would again put the carriage in motion. A drosky was procured, on which we were ordered to sit; and thus we proceeded to the Commandant. From the Commandant we were next ordered to the Intendant of the Police: and all this did not save us from the visits and the insolence of two or three idle officers, lounging about as spies, who entered our apartments, examined every thing we had, and asked a number of frivolous and impertinent questions, with a view to extort money. Some of them found their way even into our bed-rooms, when CHAP. we were absent, and gave our servant sufficient employment to prevent them from indulging a strong national tendency to pilfer; a species of larceny which actually took place afterwards, committed by persons much their superiors in rank. The accommodations for travellers are beyond description bad, both in Petersburg and in Moscow. In the latter, nothing but necessity would render them sufferable. Three roubles a day are demanded for a single room, or rather a kennel, in which an Englishman would blush to keep his dogs. The dirt on the floor may be removed only with an iron hoe, or a shovel. These places are entirely destitute of beds. They consist of bare walls, with two or three old stuffed chairs, ragged, rickety, and full of vermin. The walls themselves are still more disgusting, as the Russians cover them with the most abominable filth. In thus giving the result of impressions made on entering this remarkable city, we might appeal to some of the first families in the empire for the veracity of the statement; but such a test of their liberality would materially affect their safety. We shall therefore unreservedly proceed to relate what we have seen, in that confidence which a due regard to truth will always inspire. Moscow contains much worth notice; much that may compensate for the fatigue and privation required in going thither for the filthiness of its hotels, the profligacy of its nobles, and the villainy of its police. CHAP. IV. MOSCOW. Peculiarities of Climate-Impressions made on a first THERE is nothing more extraordinary in this Peculiari- country than the transition of the seasons. The people of Moscow have no spring: Winter ties of Climate. |