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CHAP.

XIII.

Houses

tire.

They speak of moving a house in this part of the world as a very trifling undertaking. When moved en- Sir Charles Gascoigne went from Petersburg, to preside over the foundry at Lugan, he paid a visit to a gentleman about twenty-seven miles distant from the establishment. Finding him excellently lodged, in a well-furnished, handsome, and very convenient house, "I wish," said he, "I could have such a building erected for me at Lugan." His host replied, "If you admire my house, it is at your service, exactly as you see it; and I engage to place it for you at Lugan in the course of the week." A bargain was concluded between them; the house was moved; and Sir Charles, who informed us of the fact, resided in it when we were in that country.

The inhabitants of Tcherkask complain much of want of room. Not a single house has a court-yard; the inhabitants are all huddled together, as if they had dropped from the clouds during a shower into the river, and only waited the retiring of the waters to make their escape. They are much troubled with mosquitoes, which abound in all the neighbourhood of the Don'.

(1) Edward Brown, who published, in the seventeenth century, *" A Discourse upon the Cossacks," mentions the swarms of flies and locusts infesting their country; which is the only faithful account of their history contained in his work. See p. 22. Lond. 1672.

XIII.

When stung by these insects, they observe great CHAP. caution in not scratching the wound; but are careful to bathe it, as soon as possible, with alcohol. We found Goulard's lotion to be the best remedy; and, wanting that, salt mixed with an equal portion of vinegar. There is not a single spot in the whole town free from the annual inundation. We found one dry place, near the principal church; but this was traversed by wooden causeways, proving that the usual precaution had been also there required, although the spot were not actually then covered by water. The street where most of the shops are situate is floored with planks; and must necessarily be very unwholesome, as all the dirt, falling through, remains when the waters retire. They are often troubled with fevers; although, when we inquired for a list of their diseases, they said they seldom had any. The greatest ravage is made by the small-pox. Inoculation for that disorder had not yet been introduced. The complaint they seem to dread more than any other is called THE DISORDER OF HAIRS. Gmelin mentions this malady'. Hair is said to be generated in wounds of the bodies of those whom it afflicts. We expressed our

(2) This is not the Plica Polonica, or Goschest, mentioned by Brown (p. 24. Lond. 1672). Gmelin says it is known in Russia and the Ukraine, under the name Volosez; and he attended a case of abscess in Paulovsk which afforded him proof of the existence of such a disorder. See Journal des Savans Voyageurs, p. 146.

Diseases of

the People.

XIII

CHAP, incredulity to the wife of Lieutenant-colonel Papof; but she persisted in asserting that she had taken them from her own finger, in the presence of many witnesses. To cure this malady, they apply the leaves of a plant somewhat like plantain: this they say extracts the hairs. We saw those leaves dried, and suspended, as a remedy for this complaint; but, in their desiccated state, we could not exactly determine what they were. Biliary obstruction is a common disorder among the Cossacks. As a cure for the jaundice, they drink an infusion of the yellow flowers of a Gnaphalium, found in all the steppes. Situate as they are, either in mud yielding unwholesome exhalation, or in water full of frogs, filth, and substances putrefying as the flood retires, nothing could preserve them from pestilence, were it not for their great attention to cleanliness. The water of the Don is unwholesome, and it particularly disagrees with strangers; causing flatulency, with violent pain of the bowels, and dysentery. Many of the Russian rivers have the same quality; especially the Neva at Petersburg.

Greek Im

postor.

A Greek brought to us some coins of the Emperor Constantine, procured in Turkey. He kept them, he said, for the cure of diseases of all kinds; and, in proof of their miraculous power, swore, by all his Saints, that if any one

of them were placed in a sieve, not a drop of water would pass through it. As we laughed at his folly, he was very desirous to make the experiment; but we thought it too ridiculous to merit so much attention. He seemed to be the very Prince of impostors, and probably sold his trash at high prices. He shewed to us a piece of the true Cross: this he said he had brought from Jerusalem; and, having worn it upon his breast, had thereby saved his life in battle, as a bullet striking the pretended relic had fallen harmless to the ground.

XIII.

from

chask.

Having now satisfied our curiosity in the Departure survey of this extraordinary place, we took Teherleave of its inhabitants, and again embarked, accompanied by the officer who had so politely attended us, and whose hospitality we had often experienced, during the visit we had paid to the Cossack capital. We left Tcherkask on Monday the twenty-third of June, in the afternoon, and sailed down the Don, to Axay. About four miles from Tcherkash is an island called Nunnery Isle, or The Island of the Convent, whence, as they relate, the Turks, in former times, derived women for the seraglio of the Grand Signior..

(1) Seven versts,

[graphic]

CHAP.
XIV.

CHAP. XIV.

VOYAGE DOWN THE DON, TO AZOF AND
TAGANROG.

Visit to the General-in-chief of the Cossack Army-
Embarkation for the Sea of Axof-General View of
the South of Russia-DE RUBRUQUIS-Tahtars-Ar-
menian Colony of Nakhtshivan-Fortress of St. Demetry
Rastof-Division of the Don-Tumuli-Fortress and
Village of Axof-City of Tanais-its probable Situa-
tion-Condition of the Garrison of Axof-Opinion
entertained of the Cossacks-Departure from Axof
-MEOTIS-Remarkable Phænomenon - Arrival at

Taganrog.

THE
HE morning after our return to Axay, we
received a message from General Vassily Petro-
vich Orlof, Commander-in-chief of the Cossack

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