Kuban Tahtary, derived from it the only means of sustaining the fatigue and languor caused by the heat of the climate and by bad air. The next place we came to was Dobrinka : and here, for the first time, we found an establishment of Cossacks; although but few appeared, and even these were mixed with Malo-Russians. The church was new; a large and handsome white building, erected by the Emperor PAUL. Others of the same nature appeared in most of the neighbouring villages. That of Dobrinka makes a conspicuous appearance, several miles before the traveller reaches it. If happiness could be found under the Russian Government, it might be said to have its residence in Dobrinha; a peaceable and pleasant spot, full of neat little white cottages, tenanted by a healthy, and apparently contented, society, whose members live in the greatest tranquillity, removed from all the spies, tax-gatherers, police-officers, and other petty despots of the country. We were received into one of their court-yards, with a hearty welcome and smiling countenances, very different from the lowering brows, and contracted suspicious eyes, to which we had been so often accustomed. At sun-set, all the cows belonging to the inhabitants came, in one large troop, lowing, into the village. No driver was necessary; for, as the herd entered, they separated into parties, and retired of their own accord to their respective owners, in order to be milked. The Malo-Russians, with their numerous families, were seated upon the ground, in circles before their neat little habitations, eating their supper; and, being all merry together, offered a picture of contentment and of peace not often found within Russian territories'. CHAP. XI. first Sta Don Cos About four in the afternoon of the next day, Metscha. having been detained for want of horses at Metscha, we arrived at KASAN KAIA, one of the Kasankaia, largest stanitzas of the DoN COSSACKS, and the nitsa of the first within their territory. As we are now sacks. entering upon the description of a very interesting part of our journey, we shall be particularly careful to note every observation that may occur, relating to a country rarely visited, and, upon that account, very little known; where every thing is interesting, because every thing presents what travellers from other countries have not seen before. The independent mode of life of the people; their indolence at home; their activity in war; their remote situation (1) We observed here a plant which grows on the Hills near Cambridge, the Hedysarum Onobrychis. CHAP. with regard to the rest of Europe; the rank they XI. hold in the great scale of society; the history of their origin; their domestic manners, and character; all these require consideration. TERRITORY OF THE DON COSSACKS. Appearance of the Cossacks at Kasankaia-House of the Ataman-Ideal Dangers of the Country-Voyage by Water-Amusements and Dances of the People-Departure-Steppes-River Lazovai-Visit to a Camp of Calmucks-Of their Brandy distilled from Mare's Milk -Personal Appearance of Calmucks-Arts, Armour, and Weapons-Recreations and Condition of Life Acenovskaia-Of the Suroke, or Bobac, of the SteppesThe Biroke and Suslic-Nature of Villages named in Russian Maps-Stragglers from the Army-Distinction between Cossacks of the Steppes and of the DonKamenskaia-Iron Foundries of Lugan-Etymology of the word TANAIS-Numerous Camps of CalmucksApproach to Åxay. THERE is something extremely martial, and CHAP even intimidating, in the first appearance of a XII. XII. Appear Kasankaia. CHAP. COSSACK. His dignified and majestic look; his elevated brows, and dark mustachoes; his tall ance of the helmet of black wool, terminated by a crimson Cossacks at sack, with its plume, laced festoon, and white cockade; his upright posture; the ease and elegance of his gait; give him an air of great importance. We found Cossacks in considerable number at Kasankaia, lounging before their houses, and conversing in such large parties, that it seemed as if we were entering their capital. Their dresses were much richer than any thing we had observed in Russia, although all were uniform. Each person's habit consisted of a blue jacket, edged with gold and lined with silk, fastened by hooks across the chest. Beneath the jacket appeared a silk waistcoat, the lower part of which was concealed by the sash. Large and long trowsers, either of the same material as the jacket, or of white dimity, kept remarkably clean, were fastened high above the waist, and covered their boots. The sabre is not worn, except on horseback, upon a journey, or in war. In its stead is substituted a switch, or cane, with an ivory head: this every Cossack bears in his hand, as an appendage of his dress; being at all times prepared to mount his horse at a moment's notice. Their cap or helmet is the most beautiful part of the costume; because it is becoming to every set of features. It adds |