VII.

The view of Moscow, from a terrace in the CHAP. Kremlin, near the spot where the artillery is preserved, would afford a fine subject for a Panorama. The number of magnificent buildings, the domes, the towers, and spires, filling all the prospect, make it, perhaps, one of the most extraordinary sights in Europe. All the wretched hovels, and miserable wooden buildings, which appear in passing through the streets, are lost in the vast assemblage of magnificent edifices among these, the Foundling Hospital is particularly conspicuous. Below the walls of the Kremlin, the Moscva, already become a river of importance, is seen flowing towards the Volga. The new promenade forming on its banks, immediately beneath the fortress, is a superb work, and promises to rival the famous quay at Petersburg: it is paved with large flags; and is continued from the Stone Bridge, to another, which is called the Moscva Bridge; being fenced with a light but strong iron palisade, and stone pillars, executed in a very good taste. A flight of stairs leads from this walk to the river, where the ceremony of the Benediction of the Water takes place at an earlier season of the year. Another flight of wooden steps leads through the walls of the Kremlin to an area within the fortress.

CHAP.
VII.

Festival of

sion.

One day, ascending by this staircase, we found all the churches in the Kremlin open, and a the Ascen- prodigious concourse of people assembled at the celebration of the Great Festival of the Ascension. It is difficult to describe the scenes exhibited within these buildings during festivals. We were carried in by a crowd which rushed forward like a torrent, and, being lifted by it from the ground, beheld, as we entered, a throng of devotees, in which there was danger of being pressed to death: all present were in motion, crossing themselves', bowing their heads, and struggling who should first kiss the consecrated pictures. The bodies of Saints were, as usual, exposed; and we were shewn, by the attending priests, some wood of the true Cross.' Women, with tears streaming from their eyes, lifted up their infants, and taught them to embrace the feet and hands of the images. Observing a crowd particularly eager to kiss the scull of an incorruptible saint, we asked a priest, in Latin, whose body the sepulchre contained. "Whence are you," said he, " that you know not the Tomb of St. Demetrius ?"

66

(1) The Russians cross themselves first on the forehead, then on the breast, then on the right shoulder, then on the left shoulder; thereby completing the figure of a cross. This ceremony is performed with the thumb, the first, and the middle finger; the three fingers signifying the Trinity.

MOSCOW.

Order of the Maltese Cross-Minerals of Count Golovkin
-Pictures-Antiquities-Shells-Gallery of Galitzin
Library of Botterline-Botanic Garden- Philosophical
Instruments-Other Collections-Stupendous objects of
Natural History-English Horse-Dealers-Public
Baths: their mode of use, and national importance
-Foundling Hospital.

SINCE the Emperor PAUL was made Grand

Master of Malta, the Order of the Cross became one of the most fashionable in Russia. It was

CHAP.
VIII.

Order of

the Maltese Cross.

VIII.

CHAP. not possible to mix in company, without seeing many persons adorned with the badge of the knights. The price of it, when purchased of the Crown, was three hundred peasants. In the changes befalling Orders, as well as Governments, that which has happened to this class of society is worthy of admiration. Formerly, the oath taken, upon admission to the fraternity, was a declaration of poverty, chastity, and obedience. What the nature of the oath now is, we did not learn; but the opposite qualifications in candidates for the Holy Cross were manifest, The extravagance of the Russian nobility has no example. They talk of twenty and thirty thousand roubles as other nations do of their meanest coin; but those sums are rarely paid in cash the disbursement is made in furniture, horses, carriages, watches, snuff-boxes, rings, and wearing-apparel.

Minerals of
Count
Golovkin.

Visiting the mineralogical cabinet of Count Golovkin with a dealer in minerals, he informed us that the arts and sciences obtained true

(1) As we were informed.-Mr. HEBER states it at twelve hundred roubles.

"At present, indeed, there is a new method of acquiring rank. Persons who have not served either in a civil or military capacity, may, for twelve hundred roubles, purchase a Cross of Malta; but this is considered as no very proud distinction." Heber's MS. Journal.

patronage only in Moscow. "In England," said he, "it does not answer to offer fine specimens of Natural History for sale; we get more money, even for the minerals of Siberia, in Moscow than in London." We found a very practical illustration of his remark, in the contents of one small drawer, which was opened for us, consisting only of forty-three specimens, and which had cost the Count two thousand pounds sterling. The substances were certainly rare, but by no means adequate to such an enormous price. Some of them had been purchased in London, at the sale of Monsieur de Calonne's Cabinet. A fine mineral, as well as a fine picture, will often make the tour of Europe; and may be seen in London, Paris, and Petersburg, in the course of the same year.

Among the rarest of Count Golovkin's minerals, were, a specimen of the black sulphuret of silver, crystallized in cubes, for which alone he paid fifteen hundred roubles; auriferous native silver; the largest specimen which perhaps exists of the red Siberian tourmaline; galena, almost

(2) Perhaps it is the same now exhibited in the Gardens of Natural History at Paris. Since this was written, I have seen a specimen much larger, in Mr. Greville's splendid Collection. It was a present from the King of Ava to Captain Symes, and is nearly as big as a man's head.