magnificently interred by the Duke of Bourbon, who, though an enemy, affifted at his funeral in mourning. Parker himself is buried in the fame place, with the following infcription. D. O. M. Carolo Parchero a Morley Anglo ex illuftrif fimâ clariffima ftirpe. Qui epifcopus def. ob fidem catholicam actus in exilium. An. XXXI. peregrinatus ab invictif. Phil. Rege Hifpan. honeftiffimis pietatis & conftantiæ præmiis ornatus moritur Anno a partu Virginis, M. D. C. XI. men. Septembris. To the memory of Charles Parker of Morley, an Englishman, of a most noble and illuftrious family; who, a bishop elect, being banished for the catholic faith, and, in the thirty-first year of his exile, honourably rewarded for his piety and conftancy by the moft invincible Philip King of Spain, died in September 1611. In Pavia is an univerfity of feven colleges, one of them called the college of Borromee, very large, and neatly built. There is likewife a ftatue in brafs, of Marcus Antoninus on horfeback, which the people of the place call Charles the fifth, and fome learned men Conftantine the great. 3 Pavia Pavia is the Ticinum of the ancients, which took its name from the river Ticinus, which runs by it, and is now called the Tefin. This river falls into the Po, and is exceffively rapid. The Bishop of Salisbury fays, that he ran down with the ftream thirty miles in an hour, by the help of but one rower. I do not know therefore why Silius Italicus has reprefented it as fo very gentle and still a river, in the beautiful description he has given us of it. Ceruleas Ticinus aquas et ftagna vadofa Scarce can the fight discover if it moves; A poet of another nation would not have dwelt fo long upon the clearness and tranfparency of the ftream; but in Italy one feldom fees a river that is extremely bright and limpid, most of them falling down from the mountains, that make their waters very VOL. IV. troubled C troubled and muddy; whereas the Tefin is only an outlet of that vast lake, which the Italians now call the Lago Maggiore. I faw between Pavia and Milan the convent of Carthufians, which is very spacious and beautiful. Their church is extremely fine, and curioufly adorned, but of a Gothic ftructure. I could not stay long in Milan without going to fee the great church that I had heard fo much of, but was never more deceived in my expectation than at my first entering: For the front, which was all I had seen of the outfide, is not half finished, and the infide is fo fmutted with duft and the smoke of lamps, that neither the marble, nor the filver, nor brafs-work fhow themselves to an advantage. This vaft Gothic pile of building is all of marble, except the roof, which would have been of the fame matter with the reft, had not its weight rendered it improper for that part of the building. But for the reafon I have juft now mentioned, the outfide of the church looks much whiter and fresher than the infide; for where the marble is so often washed with rains, it preferves itself more beautiful and unfullied, than in those parts that are not at all exposed to the weather. That fide of the church indeed, which faces the tramontane wind, is much more unfightly than the reft, by reafon of the duft and smoke that that are driven against it. This profufion of marble, though astonishing to strangers, is not very wonderful in a country that has fo many veins of it within its bowels. But though the ftones are cheap, the working of them is very expenfive. It is generally faid there are eleven thousand statues about the church; but they reckon into the account every particular figure in the hiftorypieces, and feveral little images which make up the equipage of those that are larger. There are indeed a great multitude of fuch as are bigger than the life: I reckoned above two hundred and fifty on the outside of the church, though I only told three fides of it; and these are not half so thick fet as they intend them. The ftatues are all of marble, and generally well cut; but the most valuable one they have is a St. Bartholomew, new-flead, with his fkin hanging over his shoulders: It is esteemed worth its weight in gold: They have infcribed this verse on the pedestal, to show the value they have for the workman: Non me Praxiteles, fed Marcus finxit Agrati. Left at the sculptor doubtfully you guess, 'Tis Marc Agrati, not Praxiteles. There is, just before the entrance of the choir, a little fubterraneous chapel dedicated to St. Charles Borromee, where I faw : his body, in epifcopal robes, lying upon the altar in a fhrine of rock-cryftal. His chapel is adorned with abundance of filver-work: He was but two and twenty years old when he was chofen Archbishop of Milan, and fortyfix at his death; but made fo good use of so fhort a time, by his works of charity and munificence, that his countrymen blefs his memory, which is ftill fresh among them. He was canonized, about a hundred years ago: and indeed if this honour were due to any man, I think fuch public-fpirited virtues may lay a juster claim to it, than a four retreat from mankind, a fiery zeal against Heterodoxies, a fet of chimerical vifions, or of whimfical penances, which are generally the qualifications of Roman Saints. Miracles indeed are required of all who afpire to this dignity, because, they fay, an Hypocrite may imitate a Saint in all other particulars, and these they attribute in a great number to him I am speaking of. His merit and the importunity of his countrymen procured his canonization before the ordinary time; for it is the policy of the Roman church not to allow this honour, ordinarily, until fifty years after the death of the perfon, who is candidate for it; in which time it may be fuppofed that all his contemporaries will be worn out, who could contradict a pretended miracle, or remember any infirmity of the Saint. One would wonder that Roman ca tholics, |