CHAP. IX.

insomuch that even the minutest detail of the architecture and of the trees might have been thence delineated, I applied to the Arabs to be informed in what manner we were to pass the water. Our interpreter, although a Greek, and therefore likely to have been informed of such a phænomenon, was as fully convinced as any of us that we were drawing near to the water's edge, and became indignant when the Arabs maintained that within an hour we should reach Rosetta by crossing the sands in the direct line we then pursued, and that there was no water. "What," said he, giving way to his impatience," do you suppose me an ideot, to be persuaded contrary to the evidence of my senses?" The Arabs, smiling, soon pacified him, and completely astonished the whole party, by desiring us to look back at the desert we had already passed, where we beheld a precisely similar appearance. It was, in fact, the mirage', a prodigy to which every one of

(1) An explanation of the phænomenon, called Mirage by the French, was published at Caïro, in the "Décade Egyptienne," vol. I. p. 39. by Monge. It is too long for insertion here; but the Author thus previously describes the illusion.

"Le soir et le matin, l'aspect du terrain est tel qu'il doit être; et entre vous et les derniers villages qui s'offrent à votre vue, vous n'appercevez que la terre; mais dès que la surface du sol est suffisamment échauffée par la présence du soleil, et jusqu'à ce que, vers le soir, elle commence à se refroidrir, le terrain ne paraît plus avoir le même extension, et il paraît terminé à une lieuë environ par une inondation générale. Les villages qui sont placés au delà de cette distance paraissent comme des îles situées au milieu d'un grand Lac, et dont on serait séparé par une étendue d'eau plus ou moins considérable. Sous chacun des villages on voit son image renversée, telle qu'on la verrait effectivement s'il y avait en avant une surface d'eau réfléchissante."

To this Monge adds, that the large masses only are distinctly reflected; but when the mirage is very perfect, the most minute detail, whether of trees or buildings, may be plainly perceived, trembling, as when the inverted images of objects appear in water, the surface whereof is agitated by wind.

of us were then strangers, although it afterwards became

more familiar. Yet upon no future occasion did we ever behold this extraordinary illusion so marvellously displayed. The view of it afforded us ideas of the horrible despondency to which travellers must sometimes be exposed, who, in traversing the interminable desert, destitute of water, and perishing with thirst, have sometimes this deceitful prospect before their eyes.

Before we arrived at Rosetta, seeing a flag displayed upon the tower of Abû-mandûr, to the right of our route, we supposed a part of our troops might be there stationed, and therefore climbed that mountain of sand, to visit them. Here we were unexpectedly greeted with an astonishing view of the Nile, the Delta, and the numerous groves in all the neighbourhood of Rosetta: it is the same so wretchedly pictured in Sonnini's Travels, and of which no idea can be formed from his engraved representation. The scene is beyond description. The sudden contrast it offers, opposed to the desert we had traversed, the display of riches and abundance poured forth by the fertility of this African paradise, with all the local circumstances of reflection excited by an extensive prospect of the Nile, and of the plains of Egypt, render it one of the most interesting sights in the world. Among the distant objects we beheld the English camp, stationed about five miles up the river, upon its western side; and all the country as far as the fortress of Rachmanie. The beautiful boats peculiar to the Nile, with their large wide spreading sails, were passing up and down the river. Unable to quit the spot, we dismissed our guides, and remained some time

VOL. II.

2 Q

CHAP. IX.

1

CHAP. IX.

time contemplating the delightful picture. Afterwards,
descending on foot, close by the superb mosque of
Abû-mandûr, we continued our walk along the banks of
the Nile, through gardens richer than imagination can
pourtray, beneath the shade of enormous overhanging
branches of sycamore and fig trees, amidst bowers of
roses, and through groves of date, citron, lime, and
banana trees, to Rosetta. As we entered the town,
Arabs, in long blue dresses, welcomed our coming, placing
their hands upon their breasts, and saying, "Salaam, Alla!
Bon Ingleses!" while from the camp, English officers, on
horses, camels, or on foot, and boats, filled with troops,
upon the water, gave to the place a character of gayety
never perhaps possessed by it in any former age.
All authors
mention the beauty of its scenery, complaining only of the
monotony and dulness of the city. At the time we saw it,
no such complaint was applicable; for, with unrivalled
natural beauty, Rosetta then exhibited one of the liveliest
and most varied pictures of human life it is possible to
behold. From the different people by whom it was
thronged, its streets resembled an immense masquerade.
There was hardly a nation in the Mediterranean but might
have been then said to have had its representative in Rosetta ;
and the motley appearance thus caused was further diver-
sified by the addition of English ladies from the fleet and
army, who, in long white dresses, were riding about upon
the asses of the country.

Upon our arrival, we went to the quarters of Sir Sidney
Smith. He was then with our army, in the camp near
Rachmanie; but we were conducted to a house he had kindly

prepared for our reception, "that the turbulence of war, might not," as he was pleased to express it, "interfere with This dwelling was the most delightful

the arts of peace."

of any in Rosetta.

Placed in a prominent situation upon

the quay, it commanded a view of the Nile, and of the Delta, in every direction'. We had therefore only to return to the fleet for a few articles of convenience, and for our books, and here to fix our residence.

CHAP. IX.

(1) Sir Sidney Smith, afterwards viewing this prospect from our terrace, said, “We have often abused Savary for his extravagance and amplification; but the view here may at least reconcile us to his account of Rosetta."

CHAP.

CHAP. X.

Return to the Fleet.

Return to the Fleet-Nelson's Island-Antiquities-Rosetta-Trilinguar

Inscription Scarabæus Pilularius

Curious Edifice in Rosetta

of the Gothic form Voyage to Cyprus Appearance of the Island-Salines-Hot Winds-Larneca-Insalubrity of the Island -Produce of the Land-Wine of Cyprus-Wretched Condition of the Country-Phoenician Idols-Nature of the Cyprian Venus— Antient Gems-Signet Rings-Origin of the Camachuia-Theban Stone-Paintings commemorated upon Gems-Notice of a Picture by Zeuxis from an antient Greek Manuscript-Substances used for the Signets of Cyprus-their most antient form.

UPON the first of May, we returned to the fleet for our baggage, and took this opportunity to examine the Isle of

Bekier,