VOYAGE DOWN THE DON, TO AZOF AND Visit to the General-in-chief of the Cossack Army— Taganrog. CHAP. THE morning after our return to Åxay, we XIV. received a message from General Vassily Petrovich Orlof, Commander-in-chief of the Cossack XIV. Visit to the General in-chief of army, stating, that he expected us to dine with CHAP. him at his country-seat upon the Don. We set out, accompanied by our friend Colonel Papof, and by a Greek officer in the Cossack service, the Cossack whose name was Mamonof. The General had army. sent his carriage, with six fine Cossack horses, and several Cossacks, mounted, with lances, to escort us. We passed along the steppes; and occasionally through vineyards, planted with cucumbers, cabbages, Indian wheat, apple, pear, peach, plum trees, and melons, for about ten miles, till we arrived at his house, standing upon the European side of the river, opposite to the town of Tcherkask, and distant from it about five miles. Here we found some elegant and accomplished women amusing themselves with a piano-forte; and afterwards we all sat down to as magnificent a dinner as any English gentleman could have afforded; the whole being served upon plate. The company consisted of about twenty persons. The General presented us with mead thirty years old, tasting like Madeira wine. He wished very much for English beer, having often drunk it in Poland. A number of very expensive wines were brought round, many of them foreign; but the best wine of the Don seemed superior to any other. As we sat banquetting in this sumptuous manner, we called to mind the erroneous notions we had once XIV. CHAP entertained of the inhabitants of this country; notions still propagated by the Russians concerning the Cossack people. Perhaps few in England, casting their eyes upon a map of this remote corner of Europe, have pictured in their imagination a wealthy and enlightened society, enjoying not only the refinements, but even the luxuries, of the most civilized nations. Their conversation had that polished and agreeable cast which characterizes well-educated military men. Some peculiarities, common to our ancestors, and still retained in the ceremonial feasts of antient corporate bodies, might be observed. Among these, the practice of drinking toasts, and of rising to pledge the security of the cupbearer, may be adduced as remarkable instances. Another very antient custom, still more prevalent, is that of bowing to and congratulating any person who happens to sneeze. The Cossacks of the Don always do this. When we took leave of the General, he said, if we preferred returning by water, for the sake of variety, we might use his barge, already prepared, and waiting to convey us. Being conducted to it, we found it manned by ten rowers, and decorated in a most costly manner. It was covered with fine scarlet cloth; and Persian carpets were spread beneath a canopy of silk. The current being in our favour, we embarked, XIV. and were speedily reconducted to our quarters CHAP. in Åxay. tion for the Sea of Azof. The next morning we bade farewell to the EmbarkaDon Cossacks; and, having placed our carriage on board a barge, sailed delightfully down the river (often looking back at the fine view of the town of Åxay and Tcherkask), to Nakhtshivan, an Armenian colony, established about twenty years Armenian before our arrival: this had attained a very flou- Nakhishirishing state, even in that short period'. Its (1) “A verst (by land) from the fort of Rostof, is a large Armenian town, called Nakitchivan, after the antient town of that name. We spent the evening in looking over it. They affirmed that it contains 1500 families. It has four churches, and two very large bazars, which are very much crowded, and have great appearance of industry. We had a letter to one of the principal inhabitants, who had the rank of Colonel, and whose son was one of Mr. Andre's pupils (of Rostof), and our interpreter. His name was Abraamof. I found that Armenians usually expressed their names in this manner, from the Christian names of their parents, yet with the termination in of, which is a mark of gentility. This man had two sons in the Russian navy; and possessed the reputation of great wealth. He knew Lazarof, who sold Orlof the great diamond; and described in strong terms the misery and anxiety the Armenian had felt while it remained in his possession. His house was well furnished, and had a billiard-table, and many other European luxuries: all however sat cross-legged, except the master, whose dress also was something after the European mode. He had several curious sabres and poignards richly ornamented, which he exhibited with much pride. He said, himself and the greater part of his fellow townsmen had emigrated from the Crimea during the distur bances there; that they had this situation given them, and a charter, by which they had the same privileges as their countrymen at Astrachan. The principal trade of the town is in leather. The women are almost Colony of van. all XIV. CHAP. inhabitants were derived from the Crimea. They had about four hundred shops: these were all placed in one great covered building, after the manner observed in Moscow. The towns near the mouths of the Don present the traveller with a novel and varied picture of society. He encounters half-a-dozen different nations and languages in the same number of minutes; and each nation in its peculiar dress. As we approached the Armenian settlement, we beheld all veiled, but those we caught a glimpse of were extremely beautiful. Their veils were very carelessly disposed, and they betrayed no timidity. The men are also handsome; but they have a Jewish expression in their coutenance. The Russians declare they have all a natural unpleasant odour, like that we attribute to the Jews. They dislike them greatly; and have a proverb, Two Jews equal one Armenian; two Armenians one Greek; two Greeks, one Devil.' The Armenians, it is well known, are a very favoured sect by the Russian Government; and many of the noblest families bave a mixture of their blood. Of these are Dolgorucky and Bagration. Joan the First gave the title of Knæs to great numbers of Armenians, and permitted to all a free trade and settlement, with full liberty of worship, and even of making their processions openly. They have a magnificent church in Petersburg, and many in Astrachan and Casan. Their enterprize and activity are well known. Mr. Anderson of Petersburg told me he knew one who had been twice to Bassora, and once to Sarmacand and Tibet. I asked Abraamof if such journeys were common; and if they could take an European with them, as their servant, or in any other disguise. He answered both these questions in the affirmative. He himself had been in Georgia, and many parts of Turkey, but never farther. We observed several Mahometans, at least persons in green turbans, which no Armenian would wear." Heber's MS. Journal. As the green turban is a mark of high distinction in Turkey, and the Armenians of Nakhtshivan are under no fear of offending Mohammedans, perhaps they are worn merely in consequence of the freedom they here enjoy. |