CHAP.

XI.

Momon.

This village is situate in the most wild and open steppes. Amongst the short herbage we noticed the land-tortoise. Its flesh is esteemed a great delicacy; as it is in the Archipelago, and in all Turkish cities. Boat-loads of them are carried from the Greek Isles to the markets of Constantinople. After leaving Kazinskoy, we passed through several very large villages, scattered over valleys, each of which appeared to consist rather of several hamlets than of one, and arrived at Nizney Momon. Nothing occurred Nizney worth observation, except the plants we collected'. The heat was intense. The country similar to that before described. We found our vinegar a pleasing and salutary ingredient in bad water, and a most delicious solace, when exposed to the scorching rays of the sun, with parched lips, and mouths full of dust. It was impossible to resist the temptation of drinking it without water; and to the practice of doing so may be attributed, perhaps, the weak state of health into which the author afterwards fell. We considered it, at this time, the most valuable part of our baggage; and afterwards, in

(1) Of these, some are known in our country; viz. Goat's-beard, Tragopogon pratense, and Potentilla argentea. Others, more rare, are, the Gladiolus imbricatus, not found even in our botanic gardens ; Astragalus Onobrychis, Hesperis matronalis, and Campanula Sibirica. We observed also a new species of Lychnis.

XI.

CHAP. Kuban Tahtary, derived from it the only means of sustaining the fatigue and languor caused by the heat of the climate and by bad air.

Dobrinka.

The next place we came to was Dobrinka: and here, for the first time, we found an establishment of Cossacks; although but few appeared, and even these were mixed with Malo-Russians. The church was new; a large and handsome white building, erected by the Emperor PAUL. Others of the same nature appeared in most of the neighbouring villages. That of Dobrinha makes a conspicuous appearance, several miles before the traveller reaches it. If happiness could be found under the Russian Government, it might be said to have its residence in Dobrinka; a peaceable and pleasant spot, full of neat little white cottages, tenanted by a healthy, and apparently contented, society, whose members live in the greatest tranquillity, removed from all the spies, tax-gatherers, police-officers, and other petty despots of the country. We were received into one of their court-yards, with a hearty welcome and smiling countenances, very different from the lowering brows, and contracted suspicious eyes, to which we had been so often accustomed. At sun-set, all the cows belonging to the inhabitants came, in one large troop,

lowing, into the village. No driver was necessary; for, as the herd entered, they separated into parties, and retired of their own accord to their respective owners, in order to be milked. The Malo-Russians, with their numerous families, were seated upon the ground, in circles before their neat little habitations, eating their supper; and, being all merry together, offered a picture of contentment and of peace not often found within Russian territories'.

CHAP.

XL.

first Sta

Don Cos

About four in the afternoon of the next day, Metscha. having been detained for want of horses at Metscha, we arrived at KASANKAIA, one of the Kasankaia, largest stanitzas of the DON COSSACKS, and the nitsa of the first within their territory. As we are now sacks. entering upon the description of a very interesting part of our journey, we shall be particularly careful to note every observation that may occur, relating to a country rarely visited, and, upon that account, very little known; where every thing is interesting, because every thing presents what travellers from other countries have not seen before. The independent mode of life of the people; their indolence at home; their activity in war; their remote situation

(1) We observed here a plant which grows on the Hills near Cambridge, the Hedysarum Onobrychis.

CHAP. with regard to the rest of Europe; the rank they

XI.

hold in the great scale of society; the history of their origin; their domestic manners, and cha, racter; all these require consideration.

TERRITORY OF THE DON COSSACKS. Appearance of the Cossacks at Kasankaia-House of the Ataman-Ideal Dangers of the Country-Voyage by Water-Amusements and Dances of the People-Departure-Steppes-River Lazovai-Visit to a Camp of Calmucks-Of their Brandy distilled from Mare's Milk -Personal Appearance of Calmucks-Arts, Armour, and Weapons-Recreations and Condition of LifeAcenovskaia-Of the Suroke, or Bobac, of the SteppesThe Biroke and Suslic-Nature of Villages named in Russian Maps-Stragglers from the Army-Distinction between Cossacks of the Steppes and of the DonKamenskaia-Iron Foundries of Lugan-Etymology of the word TANAIS-Numerous Camps of CalmucksApproach to Axay.

THERE is something extremely martial, and CHAP even intimidating, in the first appearance of a

XII.