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received large orders from several of the nobility and gentry there stationed; a brief account of which we shall lay before our fair readers.

No. 1.-SUMMER RECESS BALL DRESS. Frock of white crape, Venetian gauze, or fine net, richly embellished at the border with small double Indian roses of a beautiful pink colour, and mingled with Let them observe that nothing is reckleaves of crape and pearls: the body finish-oned so elegant for out-door costume as fine ed in the Oriental style, with short sleeves, which approach nearer to the elbow than formerly, and which are finished by a trimming of broad blond. The head-dress consists of a double wreath of Indian roses, interspersed with the braids of hair that are wound round the summit of the head. White satin shoes and white kid gloves.

No. 2.-PARISIAN BONNETS.

Fig. 1. represents transparent bonnets of crape or net, crowned with bouquets of flowers, and trimmed at the edges with broad blond and a cordon of flowers. Fig. 2. represents bonnets of satin or gros de Naples, both white and coloured, crowned with a profusion of lilacs or small double poppies.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS

ON

FASHION AND DRESS.

To catch the motley power, Fashion as she flies, we should follow her to Brighton, Cheltenham, Weymouth, and to those rural scenes where royalty and nobility retire during the sultry months of July and August, and where they generally prolong their stay during the rich autumnal season, till winter disrobes the trees of their ver

dure, and the chilling winds cause them to hasten to their wariner dwellings in the metropolis.

muslin pelisses lined with coloured sarsnet; though for evening walks, or returns from evening visits, when the sea breeze imparts a freshness bordering on cold, a pelisse of lightly brocaded silk, with a broad blue satin pelerine cape, is much in favour.

Transparent bonnets are still worn in carriages, either of crape, net, or gauze; but are chiefly devoid of the ornaments of either feathers or flowers. For walking nothing is reckoned so truly elegant as large bonnets of fine Leghorn, trimmed at the edge with fine blond, and the crown encircled by a rich figured ribband, with bow and ends on one side. The marine bonnet, made of the new cotton manufacture in imitation of willow straw, must not be forgotten: it is elegantly striped with green, representing Chinese grass; and is crowned with a small bouquet of full blown white roses. For the public walks the marine bonnet is expected to be a general favourite; but still more so will be the Duchess of Kent's bonnet; it is formed of a beautiful fancy straw, interspersed with stripes of satin and open straw, with a bouquet of white and red double ranunculus: it is in high, though not general estima. tion, having been but just invented at the St. James's-street. new and elegant Magazin de Modes, in

And here a most superb bridal dress, for receiving congratulatory visits at home, has lately been finished. At the border are two flounces of muslin, richly embroidered in open work; between, above, and below each flounce is a letting in of fine lace: the sleeves, closer to the arm than

From each of the above mentioned places Mrs. Bell, who, from her genuine taste and unremitting attention to please the versatility of that of others, may be deemed one usual, are ornamented to correspond with of our first arbitresses of the toilette, has "the border of the dress. With this is worn

the Italian cornette of fine net, crowned at the summit with a full wreath of red and white roses entwined with myrtle.

The Bannian, or Indostan deshabille of fine cambric, is a favourite dejenné costume at the fashionable watering-places; and Oriental robes of plain and worked muslin are much in vogue for half dress. The Virginia dress for evening parties, is among the full dress novelties; it is of sprigged gossamer satin of etherial blue, and light as air; it is ornamented with flounces of broad white blond. The Pavilion concert dress is most elegant; it is of white spotted gauze, richly, though lightly, bordered with three distinct festoon flounces of blond, each flounce headed by a narrow rouleau of peach-coloured satin.

Amongst the head-dresses the Madras turban still continues in favour; we shali ever regard this head-dress both as unbecoming and negligent. The Cheltenham morning cap is far more elegant; it is of fine net and blond, crowned with wild Cape flowers. The College cap of blue satin, with embossments of white gauze, is one of those whimsical head-dresses which a very pretty face only may be allowed to wear. The cornettes continue, as usual, to be worn at all times in the day, especially by matrons; for the breakfast table they are without flowers, for dinner parties the flowers are profuse, and on evenings the mob part is jerked back, to take off their undress appearance, and some ladies add a small plume of white feathers as an ornament; we cannot forbear saying a very outré one. Many matronly ladies, however, in the country, wear at evening parties small equestrian hats of Chinese gauze or satin, with full plumes of feathers: the Caledonian cap, for sea side excursions, is universally worn.

Cabinet of Taste;

OR MONTHLY COMPENDIUM OF FOREIGN
COSTUME.

By a Parisian Correspondent.

COSTUME OF PARIS.

I am happy to hear you intend again to visit Paris; you will then see how diligently I have performed the duty you required of me, and how indefatigable, I may say, I

have been, without being accused of egotism, in my researches after the versatile Goddess. I must maintain, in spite of the well known genius and inventive powers of your country, that if she does sometimes seem behind hand in variety in France, yet that she is so sure a guide to Frenchwomen in the placing a feather or a flower, in the setting of a gown or the fixing a headdress, that you must confess the attention to this minutiæ evidently shews that the chief seat of Fashion's empire is Paris.

Now there is little variety this month in our out-door costume; for the only shield that is thrown over the dresses of our Parisian belles are scarf shawls of Oriental fabric, in morning walks, notwithstanding the warmth of the weather; and for evening, or public promenades, pelerines and handkerchiefs of black lace.

When I take you among the hats, however, I defy any metropolis to shew so great a variety. Several of these head coverings are ornamented with gauze ribbons, which are of so light a texture that they have obtained the name of marabout ribbons; they are particularly made use of in ornamenting the edges, at which are two rows quilled of this material. The trimming round the crowns of some hats consists of large folds of gauze, which are placed in a serpentine manner, and between each wave are large full blown roses, half concealed by the gauze; wild poppies are still a favourite ornament on hats. A few Spartan bonnets have made their appearance; they are of a checquered material. Two-thirds of the carriage hats are of white crape or gauze; on straw hats the piony is a favourite flower, though a group of wild single roses is preferred by some ladies; but a bunch of various flowers, consisting of roses, mignionette, jasmine, &c. is most in favour, and a quantity of wheat ears and wild poppies form a very general ornament. The edges of straw hats are unornamented, but it is not unusual to see them adorned with a plume of marabout feathers. The brims of bonnets are bent down a little in front, and are ornamented with a bunch of wild poppies and ears of ripe corn. The gauze hats are trimmed with checquered gauze builloné, in the buffont style, either round the crown or at the edge; but sometimes the edge is simply

PROGRESSIVE IMPROVEMENTS IN DRESS.

trimmed with a bias fold of gauze, plaited n large plaits, at a great distance from each other; a large bouquet of geranium is placed on one side of these hats, and many ladies have a quilling of red gauze at the edge, to suit the blossom of the geraniuni. Pinks are a more favourite ornament on hats than roses; they are generally five in a bunch. The hats and bonnets are getting smaller very fast: bonuets of plaid gauze have lately made their appearance in the carriages of some of our elegantes; they are either of brown, green, and blue, or the real tartan; they are bent down, and extended wide on each side of the face.

Embroidery is but little worn at the borders of gowns; but puckered flounces, and flounces bouillonés, are very general. Printed calico gowns are universally worn in undress, with flounces of the same material; and the short sleeves, which you may think outré in undress, come nearly to the elbow; the arm, however, is always covered with a loose glove: short sleeves are very general here, and the dresses, highly appropriate to summer, are made partially low, and a light ficku is worn underneath; though very many ladies yet continue to wear a pelerine of the same material as the dress. A cambric dress has just been finished for the Duchess of Angouleme; it has one broad flounce of muslin, headed with rich fringe-work, and edged with lace; above this flounce are rows of several tucks.

The sempstress cornette is much worn as a breakfasting costume: it is of muslin, beautifully embroidered, and made like a toque, in front, à-la-diademe: the crown is divided into three quarters, with lace let in between. Dress hats and toques cover the tresses of our married ladies; the younger females go without caps this warm weather, and the hair is brought very forward, and arranged in full curls.

DRESS OF THE TYROLESE FEMALES.

39

corset, either grey or blue, ornamented with four rows of silver buttons: the neck is covered with a kind of tippet of fine scalloped lace; and they wear on their heads a Phrygian cap of cloth of gold, or velvet, richly embroidered with gold.

REMARKS

ON THE PROGRESSIVE

IMPROVEMENTS IN FASHIONS AND

DRESS.

THIRTY or thirty-five years ago, ladies wore enormous bouquets placed on one side, and being chiefly green, mingled with various kinds of heath, they appeared like brooms. A celebrated lady of quality conquered this fashion, by having the nosegays of her coachman and footmen, on a grand court-day, made up exactly in the same manner; the little brooms accordingly disappeared, and the bouquets, on court-days, seem the exclusive right of the party-coloured gentry.

Dancing has undergone a total revolution-difficulty is, now, preferred before grace-and, except in that whirling dance, the waltz, the elegant turn of the arms seems wholly neglected. Many young ladies dance a simple country-dance, looking as if they were at a funeral, their whole care being taken up how to vary their steps; and while they sometimes appear almost to fly, their countenances are dull, heavy, and inanimate: our very fine dancers, who make all these twists, turns, and varied steps, without the least difficulty, appear like so many Opera dancers. It certainly shews some skill to lift the leg nearly as high as the shoulder, without bending the knee, or destroying the equilibrium of the body by a single stagger; yet it is a posture unpleasant to the eye, and destroys all the natural grace shed so profusely by the hand of Omnipotence over the human

form.

About thirty-five years ago, the ladies wore black velvet collars, or necklaces, very tight round the throat, which were wisely left off, as they were known to oc

THE merchants' wives, and the superior females of the peasantry, wear a dress pe-casion apoplexies. Complaints in the and ease to the female form, can never be many of them, in the habit of reading and too earnestly recommended.

culiar to themselves, and which, to them, is infinitely becoming. The petticoat is of a brown colour, short and full, and ornamented at the border with two rows of ribbon or galon, They wear with this a

stomach and chest are also less frequent since the laying aside tight and stiff stays, and the pernicious use of iron and steel busks: a due attention to those corsets devoid of hard substances, imparting grace

When we treat of those fashions which are pernicious, we are led into a wide field, and it is a subject which calls forth many serious observations to succeed each other, at first unthought of. Since Grecian and gas lamps became in fashion, we find many young people obliged to wear spectacles; and the best and strongest sight is enjoyed by people in the decline of life, who are,

writing, by candlelight, without glasses. Lamps of all kinds are hurtful to the eyes, and whatever care may be taken of the purity of the oil, its vapour is extremely pernicious to people of weak nerves; but if fashion finds more elegance in a dull lamp than in a brilliant chandelier with wax candles, the length or shortness of life are but secondary considerations.

MONTHLY MISCELLANY;

MARCUS.

INCLUDING VARIETIES CRITICAL, LITERARY, AND HISTORICAL.

THE THEATRES.

DRURY-LANE.

THIS Theatre closed on Tuesday, the 30th ult. with The Belle's Stratagem and The Maid and the Magpie; when the following address was delivered by Mr. Henry John

ston:

Fudge. Tom resolves to put his master in disguise; and for this purpose takes charge of his regimentals, to exchange them for the first that good luck may send in his way. Tom is brought in contact with a worthy butler, who, from the united influence of liquor and a sultry day, is seeking a respite in a deep slumber on the grass. Tom gets possession of the butler's livery,

"LADIES AND GENTLEMEN, -This evening and leaves behind him the Major's jacket,

being fixed upon to terminate the season of dramatic performances at this Theatre, permit me most respectfully to return you thanks for that share of your patronage you have so kindly condescended to bestow on our zealous endeavours to merit your applause. I can truly assert, that the efforts of the Drury-Lane company, both collectively and individually, have been most liberally honoured with the approbation of a generous and discriminating public-always their most gratifying reward. I now, Ladies and Gentlemen, for myself, and the company in general, beg leave once more to offer our most sincere thanks; and to assure you, although the success of the present has been, from the peculiar circumstances of the times, less, in point of emolument, than that of some preceding seasons, our exertions will not be relaxed during the recess; and we hope, with confidence, to meet our patrons with a prospect of success it will be our most anxious study to deserve at your hands; and we most respectfully take leave till next season."

COVENT GARDEN.

sword, &c. As soon as Timothy awakes, he feels, very naturally, disconcerted, at the metamorphosis of his garments. At last he is reconciled to put them on, and is accosted by Tom Fudge as Major Pop-loptrop, who won a world of honours in the Peninsular war. The scene where Tom

imposes on the Butler, the belief that he is not Timothy Flat, but a renowned Major in the army, produces a good deal of merriment. At length he falls into the hands of justice in two capacities as the Major, for murder in a duel, and as Timothy Flat, for running away with his master's livery. He is conducted to prison, where he is visited by the mother of his sweetheart, who dresses him up in her own clothes, in order to effect his escape. This stratagem fails, and Timothy is brought before the magistrates for examination, charged with the murder of a brother officer, and an attempt to impose himself as a servant. Just as he is convicted, and about to be brought away, intelligence arrives, that the officer sup

A NEW farce has been produced at this Theatre, under the title of Who can I be? Major Pop-lop-trop having wounded a bro-posed to be killed is recovered from his

ther officer in a duel, absconds from his regiment, and trusts for his security to the contrivances of a trusty servant, Tom

wound, and has ordered a suspension of all further proceedings. The real Major then throws off his assumed livery, and declares

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