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CHAPTER II.

Chorography of the eastern part of Terra Firma-Division of the captain generalship of Caraccas-Temperature-Mountains-Mines-PearlFishery Salt-Mineral Springs-Seasons- Rains-EarthquakesTimber for building, carpenter-work, cabinet-work, for particular uses, for dyeing-Plants-Gums-Medicinal rosins and oilsLakes Lake Maracaibo, Lake of Valencia-Rivers-Guigues, Tocuyo, Aroa, Yarocuy, Tuy, Neveri, Manzanares, Cariaco, Guaarapiche-Sea-Tides-Worms or Tarets-Surge-Ports-Portete and Bayahonda, Maraicaibo, Coro, Porto-Cabello-Turiamo Patanemo-Barburata and Sienega-Ocumara-La Goayra-Caravaleda -Port-Francis-Higuerote-Bay or Lake Tacarigua-BarcelonaCumana-Gulf of Cariaco-Point of Araya-Channel of Marga retta-Port of Cariaco-Gulf of Paria.

Division of the captain-generalship of Caraccas.

THE HE country which I have undertaken to describe is the same as that which forms the captain-generalship of Caraccas. It comprehends the province of Venezuela in the centre, the government of Maracaibo on the west, Guiana on the south, the government of Cumana on the east, and the island of Margaretta on the north-east

This government is bounded by the sea on the north, from the 75th degree of west longitude from the meridian of Paris, to the 62d, that is to say, all the extent from the Cape de la Vela, to the point of Megilones or Paria; on the east, likewise, by the sea, from the 12th to the 8th degree of north latitude. Dutch Guiana and Peru bound it on the south and the kingdom of St. Fe on the west.

Temperature.

According to its situation, which, beginning from the 12th degree of north latitude, extends towards the equinoctial line, this country ought only to present to us a scorching sun, and a land rendered uninhabitable by excessive heat; but nature, alternately generous, irregular, and capricious, has so diversified the temperature of its climate, that in several places, the inhabitants enjoy the coolness of a perpetual spring; whilst in others, the presiding latitude exercises, without controu!, the powers which the laws of nature have assigned to it.

Mountains.

The phenomenon of this temperature is to be accounted for from the link of a chain of mountains, which sets off from one of the Andes of Quito, traverses Merida and the government of Varinas, after that stretches to the north, as far as the coast, thence takes an eastern direction, always insensibly diminishing in its height, till it finally loses itself in the island of Trinidad. The space occupied by that chain of mountains which traverses the provinces of Caraccas, is, in its ordinary breadth, fifteen leagues ; in some points twenty, but in none less than ten. It is evident, from their moderate elevation, that the creator has destined almost the whole of them for the use of man; for there are very few of them but are improveable and habitable. That which seems most obstinately to resist the efforts of cultivation, is the eastern Picacho, near Caraccas, whose height is

about 1278 fathoms. After it comes Tumeriquiri, having an elevation of 935 fathoms above the level of the sea. These inequalities of the surface create so many different temperatures, very favourable to the diversity of vegetable productions.

After traversing these mountains from north to south, we find immense plains running from east to west, from the village of Pas, in the 67th degree of west longitude, from the meridian of Paris, to the bottom of the mountains of St. Fe. They are bounded on the south, by the river Oronoko, beyond which is Guiana, which shall be spoken of separately. In these plains they suffer the most intense heat.

Very little research has been made, with regard to the conformation of the mountains of Venezuela.The Spaniards, who lose no time in those kinds of operations which are more curious than useful, and who will not deign to fix their attention upon any thing but a gold, or, at the very least, a silver mine, have left this in all its obscurity. But, according to the system generally adopted with respect to the conformation of mountains, it does not appear, that those of Venezuela, have a sufficient elevation to pass for antediluvian. Besides, they have not so much of the pyramidical form as distinguishes the primitive mountains, nor the pointed and prominent rocks, stripped of all verdure, the effect of the wearing away of the earth, occasioned by the rains; on the contrary they are covered with a variety of productions which announce the vigour rather than the decrepitude of vegetation. It is, therefore, not only presumable, but

evident, that they are but an accumulation of strata of different substances, which the hand of time has formed, and which the same hand will destroy. What further corroborates this opinion, is the quantity of calcareous substances found in these mountains, of which they would be deprived if they were primitive. Some marble has been discovered in them, and we know that this kind of stone is but the product of marine shells, madrepores, &c. which are only met with in mountains of the second order, which owe their existence entirely to the revolutions of the globe, to the caprices and convulsions of nature. And yet Baron Humboldt has found upon the mountain de la Selle, the highest of that chain, some fine granite, of which the quartz, the felt-spar and the mica are the constituent parts, which would prove, at least, according to the system of M. Pallas, that this mountain is either primitive, or has emerged from the bosom of the waters at a much earlier period than its companions. But, not to insist any further upon a subject which I may not be able to pursue, without disappointing the expectations of the reader, let me be permitted to leave to him the pleasure, the care, or the pains of entering on a more profound investigation of that question; for it is the description of a country, and not the history of the globe, which I have undertaken to give. It is a truth which requires the support of neither commentary, nor argument, that these mountains, with a conformation similar to that of all the other mountains scattered over the surface of the earth, contain the same substances, and would furnish the attentive observer with as

many objects of curiosity, as subjects of reflection; but, when all is considered, it must be allowed to be a truth not less certain, that agriculture in these provinces presents to man such a variety of objects of useful and ingenious industry, as will sufficiently employ his vacant hours, and gratify his ambition.

Mines.

If the provinces of Caraccas enjoy peculiar happiness, it is because they have no mines to work. By diligent search, the first conquerors found four gold mines, which they wrought under the name of the royal mine of St. Philip de Buria. In 1554, it was already abandoned on account of a revolt of the blacks, who wrought at it, and of the Indians, who beheld in that establishment, the certain loss of their independence. The ensuing year, governor Villacinda proposed to resume the works. He built a city there, which was called Palmes; but it was no sooner built than destroyed. The enterprize was renewed six months after, under the conduct of Paradas; but was attended with no greater success than those which preceded. He built the city of Nirgua, which the Indians forced him to evacuate. 1557, the scheme was resumed by governor Gutierres de la Pegna. They built on the banks of the Nirgua a city, which, they hoped, would prove more fortunate under the name of New-Xeres; but it did not withstand the attacks of the Indians longer than 1568. Francisco Faxardo found a second mine in the environs of the city of St. Sebastian de los Reyes; and

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