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UP THE NILE TO UGANDA.

we fill a bucket full of water, put a few filters in, and soon draw off JOURNAL OF MR. R. W. FELKIN.

enough water for drinking purposes. Then we have a wash if there is

enough water, then prayers, and then food. The groups of soldiers (Continued.)

round our hut door are always picturesque; they lie about, smoking, ULY 2.–At 5.30 we mounted, and had a very hot and singing, or mending their clothes, and one of them sews very well indeed.

uninteresting ride to Ariab, at which place we arrived at Their food consists of kind of millet seed, which they eat very hot with 10.30. There is a small Arab village of about twelve huts their fingers; a little curry-powder is added sometimes as a luxury. The here. The huts are made of bent poles covered with mats; head camel man has his food from us, only stipulating that we shall no windows or doors—a space of about two feet is left at not give him pork, as his religion forbids him to eat it. He likes our

the ground which serves the purpose. The Arabs here tea very much, but drinks it without sugar. Our cook is a first-rate are great thieves, and we had to keep a sharp look-out for our things. fellow so far, falling into our ways very well; but new brooms generally At night the soldiers

sweep well, and how he keep watch. The boys

will turn out I do not and girls run about

know. Our dragoman quite naked, the girls

gets worse instead of having only a string of

better, he can eat and beads round the neck,

sleep as much as you arms, waist, and ankles.

like, but he makes The boys' hair is shaved

mistakes now off part of the head,

'than he did when we giving them the ap

first engaged him, and pearance of young

does not seem able to clowns, which is very

understand the most amusing. There are

simple things. He herds of cows, goats,

gives us plenty of sheep, and camels. We

amusement, but tries bought two sheep for

our temper very much 3s. 6d. each (about);

-mine, at least. and to give you an idea

July 3.-We spent of Arab cuteness, soon

a quiet forenoon at after the sheep had

Ariab, and were not been driven to our tent,

sorry for the rest, the Arab who had sold

though I felt rather them came and said he

home-sick all the mornwanted the skins, as he

ing. At four P.M. all had only sold the sheep,

was ready for a start, and not the skins. We

and all our water-skins, told him we were not

tanks, flasks, and zem- | going to kill them, so

zimiers (?) carefully after a long time he

filled with water, for went. Another man

there is only one well came and asked for

before we get within dinner, saying " he had

two hours of Berber, dreamt the night be

and that is salt water. fore that some people

I don't think I have came and gave him

told you how the some food.” We told

camels are loaded. The him in England people

saddle is N-shaped, said dreams went by

with two pommels, ove the contrary, 80

at each end; girths are should have none. We

not usually used, but got some very good

if anything is used, it milk. What the cows

is a thick rope made of feed on I cannot ima

grass. The goods are gine, as there are only

slung over the saddle tufts of dry grass to be

with ropes, two ropes seen. We tried to buy

going round each case a goat, but the people

and ending in a loor, felt quite insulted at

through which the idea. - They never

wooden peg is put sell goats.

which secures them. We stayed here till

All that is required in next day, as there is no

unloading the camels water for the next two

is to steady the cases stages, and the journey

on either side, then must begin at noon,

withdraw the pezs, and our camels and

and the cases slide ourselves were too tired

down to the ground. to go on without rest.

The camel of course I was soothed to sleep THE BENI AMIR TRIBE, NUBIA, SOUTH OF STAKIM.

lies down for loading by the grinding of the

and unloading. We grain, and the voice of our kavass singing of the wives he hopes to have have on the camels we ride our bags containing our clothes for the when he shall have shuffled off this mortal coil, and have arrived in heaven. journey, buckets, washing-basin, &c., and on the pommels our small Poor fellow! would I could make him understand a different creed. bags, filters, guns, and water-bottles are slung. The rugs on which we

The temperature in the evenings is between 90° and 95°, so you see it ride require very careful packing, as the least uneasiness causes great is pretty warm the whole time. I shall be very thankful when we get to discomfort. When a halt is made, most of the camels are hobbled, and Berber. The monotony of the way is very great; you cannot talk much then turned loose. They are strung together on the march by a rope from one camel to another.

behind the teeth, round the lower jaw, and if they should chance to get When in a hut, we usually occupy one corner each with a bed; have loose, stop at once till re-tied. We rode 8) hours to Matio, a rather our guns, filters, and bags hung up at our bed's head; our revolvers are dilapidated hut, without ring-fence, and no water. About eight we under our pillows. We rig up our tables in the centre of the hut. The halted for twenty minutes, and had coffee by moonlight, and then our first thing that we do on arriving at a station is to begin and filter water; men lit up a lot of tufts of long dry grass, causing an immense light,

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and lighting up the rocks and hills in a remarkable manner. We met a long caravan of some fifty camels; they looked so weird, silently winding their way through the darkness, and soon vanishing.

The silence of the desert is very impressive, but we often sing, both to keep ourselves awake and to pass the time away. When starting, and often on the road, our men cry out in a long shrill cry, "Sheikh Abdullah el Khud;" this is to invoke protection from some old Sheikh of the desert long since gathered to his fathers.

The men annoy us much in telling us distances. When asked, "When shall we halt?” they always say, “ God knows,"--perfectly true, but that does not give us the required information, and an extensive conversation has to be held before an idea can be formed as to the length of a stage. After marching six or seven hours one gets tired, and asks how long to the station. “Oh, we are very near," or, “ We shall soon be there"; this generally means in an hour or two we may get there. One of their

meant three hours' march. We were glad to get to Matio, and were soon asleep; but I had no sooner got to sleep, as I thought, than I was conscious of a great noise, and on looking round saw them lading the camels. I had slept three hours, and we were to start again, they not even giving us time for coffee.

July 4. - For the first two hours I had the greatest difficulty to keep on my seat, falling asleep every few minutes, till a jerk would rouse me again. It was, however, delightfully cool. About nine the sun was very hot, and then began three hours of the most intense uneasiness. My water was all gone, and the sun was so hot, and the wind so strong, I could not shade myself. It was too hot to speak, the wind drying one up completely. Silently on we went, each half-hour getting worse and worse. I was quite dizzy, and each minute expected to fall down; but all things have an end, and at twelve o'clock we arrived at Alame, another hut. We bad not tasted food for sixteen hours, except a few dry biscuits, which I could hardly eat, because I had no water; you can imagine better than I can describe how we felt. And to make matters worse, we could not get a wash, as the water was too precious for that purpose. We could not sleep-it was 108° in the hut-s0 we lay and melted until six P.11., when off we were driven again. A march of five hours brought us to a place called Aletshu-no hut, but a nice plain at the foot of some hills. I was indeed thankful for a rest, as it was fairly cool.

July 5.- We started at five this morning; they tried hard to get us up at four, but it was no go-we would not stir. We soon left the mountains, and entered into the sandy desert, for which I am not sorry, as mountains, nothing but mountains, get tedious at last. The sand is so fine and soft, it is almost alive with insects, some of which are very curious. We arrived at Obach at nine o'clock, and have stayed here all day, killing a sheep, for which our men are always thankful. Obach is a hut in a very fallen-down condition on the top of a lot of sand-hills, the camels sinking deeply at every step, and going in consequence very slowly. There is a well here—but oh, what water! very salt, and full of sand. It is a good thing we have still some water left, and I hope that with care it will last us the remainder of the way.

It has been very hot to-day-110°; could get no sleep, so I am not sorry for the halt. It has also enabled me to write up my account, which I feel is very poor, but if you knew the difficulties under which it is written, you would excuse that. The sunset has been beautiful, and now as I write the moon and stars are brilliant, but still the same hot wind. I am getting tired of the word hot; but what else can one write, when one is burning for twenty hours out of the twenty-four ?

We start at three to-morrow morning, which means getting up at two o'clock. There are now only three more stages, and I shall be thankful when they are over. I wish you could see our camp-five or six watchfires, around which the men are lying, dark forms flitting about in the firelight, camels stalking silently, but at the same time with an air of quiet dignity, about, and all backed up by the steel colour of the sky and the silver light of the moon and stars.

EPITOME OF MISSIONARY NEWS. We have much pleasure in announcing that the Rev. William Ridley, Vicar of St. Paul's, Huddersfield, and formerly a C.M.S. missionary in India, has been nominated to be the first Bishop of the new Diocese of Caledonia, which is (as mentioned last month) to be formed out of the present Diocese of British Columbia, and which will include the C.M.S. Missions at Metlakahtla, &o. Mr. Ridley was ordained in 1866, and laboured for three years at Peshawur, when illness compelled him to return home.

The missionary party for Uganda travelling by way of the Nile have been much delayed on their voyage up. The river has been unusually high, and the immense quantity of water loosened great masses of reeds and papyrus, which formed floating islands and blocked up the stream. The steamer also ran short of fuel, so that she was fast bound in the midst of marshes some distance south of Sobat during the greater part of September. This country is one of the most unhealthy in Africa, but the three brethren have been mercifully kept in fair health. On Nov. 2nd they left Lado (Gondokoro) for Uganda. Later sections of Mr. Felkin's journal now appearing in the GLEANER will by-and-by give our readers full particulars.

Our North India Mission has lost another labourer. The Rev. C. Reuther died at Kangra on Jan. 22nd. He first went out in 1813, under the auspices of the Berlin Society, but joined the C.M.S. in 1849, and was ordained by Bishop Wilson. He has laboured at several stations in the North-West Provinces during the last thirty years.

Dr. Galt, the Society's medical missionary at Hang-chow, was compelled to leave China in December on account of his wife's health. They had, however, scarcely set sail for England when it pleased God to take her to Himself. She died on board the steamer on Dec. 30th, and was buried at Amoy the next day.

On Dec. 22nd Bishop French ordained Yakub Ali, of the Lahore Divinity College, for the pastorate of the Native congregation at Lahore. The Rev. C. P. C. Nugent received priest's orders at the same time.

The Rev. D. T. Barry, who has laboured energetically for the last three years as C.M.S. Secretary at Calcutta, being released by the return thither of the Rev. J. Welland, is on his way home, visiting the Society's China and Japan Missions en route.

The Rev. W. T. Storrs has returned to England after his eighteen months' work in the Santâl Mission, which formerly owed so much to him, and to which he has now been enabled to render valuable service.

Bishop Russell reports that he confirmed last year ninety-eight Chinese candidates in the Che-kiang Province. On Trinity Sunday he conferred priest's orders on the Revs. O Kwong-yiao, Wong Yiu-kwong, and Dzing Ts-sing. He writes in warm terms of the progress of the Training College at Ningpo conducted by the Rev. J. c. Hoare, and pleads earnestly for funds to provide suitable buildings.

The Rev. J. S. and Mrs. Hill, and Mr. W. Goodyear, who sailed in the autumn to join the New Zealand Mission, were shipwrecked on the voyage from Auckland to Tauranga. Providentially all on board were saved, but much property was lost.

The new Mission church and school at Hakodate were opened on Nov. 24th. The church, which will hold 300 comfortably, was filled with Japanese. A promising young convert named Sano was baptized by Mr. Deping, receiving the Christian name of Stephen.

On November 4th the Usborne Memorial School was opened at Palamcotta. This is a school for girls of the upper classes of Hindu society in connection with the Rev. A. II. Lash's network of female education agencies, and has been erected as a memorial to the Misses Usborne, who were liberal benefactresses of the Tinnevelly Mission. In the early morning and evening the building will be used as a Reading Rooin and Lecture Hall; and Mr. Lash opened the campaign with readings from the Pilgrim's Progress, accompanied by dissolving views, and a service of sacred song.

The Rev. H. D. Williamson, who was appointed in 1877. to join the Rev. E. Champion of Jubbulpore in commencing the long-deferred Mission to the Gônd tribes of Central India, but was detained for a while in Calcutta for other work, has now settled at Mandla, in the heart of the Gônd country. He finds the Gônds “very ignorant, very slow to more, very benighted,” and begs for our prayers in this new effort to reach the non-Aryan people of India.

The annual reports from Ceylon show that the number of Native Christiaus is now 6,370, and the communicants 1,512. The baptisms last year were--adults, 194 ; children, 217. There are 373 Native agents, 222 schools, and 9,500 scholars; also 140 Sunday-schools, with 2,666 scholars. The Native Christians contributed to religious purposes last year Rs. 13,321, and from European friends there was received Rs. 45,081, making some £2,500 raised in the island. One-half of the adult baptisms were in the Kandy Singhalese Mission, and 89 of these in connection with the Itinerancy, respecting which the Rev. S. Coles writes :—" I doubt if ever there were before such a promising Mission, whose progress and development was retarded from lack of men.”

THE AFGHAN WAR-A MISSION HOSPITAL SPARED

BY THE WUZIRIS. UR readers may have noticed, in the recent news in the public papers Ons taineers had sacked the town of Tank, which is on the extreme border of British territory. At this place the Society bas a Medical Mission, worked by the Rev. John Williams, a Native doctor and clergyman, whose portrait (with an account by Bishop French) appeared in the GLEANER of Jan., 1877; and last year be had 8,761 patients. His influence with all the Afghan population of the neighbourhood has always been very great; and a most remarkable illustration of this has now occurred. The Wuziris, when they destroyed Tank the other day, spared the C.M.S. Mission Hospital, avowedly on account of their affection for our Native brother. The Government dispensary was not spared. The Rev. R. Clark, in sending this intelligence, justly says, "It is one of the most striking facts connected with mission work that I have ever heard.”

THE CHURCH MISSIONARY

GLEANER.

MAY, 1879.

we

Can you

of heh risty.

MARCHING ORDERS.

Church Missionary Society, the Famine, though bad enough, was IV.

not so crnshing in its severity; and the help rendered by the

C.M.S. Relief Fund was not so large in amount. This, and “Freely ye have received, freely give."-St. Matt. x. 8.

some other reasons, may probably account for our not at first HE context shows that we must not content ourselves receiving similar news from Bishop Sargent. In a few months,

with applying this only to silver and gold. Those however, the movement spread; and while the new adherents of to whom the command was spoken neither possessed the S.P.G. increased to 22,000 in number, 11,000 more came nor provided any. Far greater gifts had they forward in the C.M.S. districts. The returns to Sept. 30th received, far greater gifts were they to give.

show that the Natives "under Christian instruction" in TinneWhat have we freely received ? Our Bibles give us a three- velly, in connection with the C.M.S., numbered at that date fold answer. 1. Love : God our Father says, “I will love them

50,075, an increase of 8,582 on the preceding year; and this freely.” 2. Justification : we are “justified freely by His grace,” | increase would have been larger but for the many poor Christians and " by His blood.” 3. Life : He says, “I will give unto him

who were dispersed by the Famine. that is athirst of the fountain of the water of life freely." And

Is not this something to thank God for? No doubt we must unto us has been preached this “ Gospel of God freely."

be careful not to think too much of it. We bave not had 11,000 We are responsible not only for having received such gifts, conversions. The conversion of one Brahmin like Ratnam or but for knowing that we have received them; for " have re

Krishnayya, or of one learned Mohammedan doctor like Imad-udceived the Spirit which is of God, that we might know the things din, is more remarkable as a proof of the power of Divine grace. that are freely given to us of God.” The whole Bible is one

The poor people who have joined the Christians in Tinnevelly are long inventory of the things that are freely given to us, and yet mostly very ignorant, and although there are some who manifest we cannot reckon our wealth, for All things are yours. a true desire for the salvation of their souls, many know little Possessing the one unspeakable gift, Jesus Christ Himself, is

more than that the religion of Jesus is better than the religion of “possessing all things.”

Siva. But yet it is a great thing that so many should give up " As every man hath received the gift, even so minister the

their idol-worship, come to the village churches and prayer-houses same.” How will you do this ?

make it a question of and schools to be taught, and reckon themselves as on the side shillings or sovereigns? Is that what you have received ? Is

of Christ. No Christian nation ever became Christian in any

If ever India does become Christian in the same sacrifice unto Thee"? Sacrifice—what ?

I beseech you

sense as many European countries now are, we must expect the therefore, brethren, by the mercies of God, that ye present your majority to be Christians only in name, and the true believers to bodies a living sacrifice.” Is there not one reader of the

be a little flock, as elsewhere. Meanwhile let us pray God that GLEANER who, having “received Christ Jesus the Lord,” will go

many of these “new accessions” may be led, under the teaching at His word, and “ freely” make known the good news of life

they will now have, to an intelligent and living faith in Christ. from the dead, and healing and cleansing through Him? There

As yet only a few have been baptized; the adult baptisms during are so many who would delight to go, but whose way God has

the year were 811, against 349 the year before. entirely hedged up. Are there none whose way is not so hedged

It is pleasant to find the Native Church girding itself to the up? He who spared not His own Son, but with Him freely work of teaching these new comers, and of preaching the Gospel gives us all things, is saying, very clearly and loudly, “Whom still more assiduously among the surrounding heathen. Besides shall I send, and who will go for us?” Will any one who might the 54 Native clergy and the 142 catechists and readers regularly say, “Here am I, send me!” refuse to say it ?

employed, there are now 389 voluntary evangelists who give up FRANCES RIDLEY HAVERGAL.

their daily work for a day or half a day every week to go and preach in the villages and talk to the people, and in every chief

congregation an evening is set apart for a prayer-meeting, at TINNEVELLY: THE CHURCH GROWING.

which these men tell what they have been doing. At the annual ANY readers of the GLEANER know that about a year gathering of the Christians of Mengnanapuram, at which 2,000

ago the news reached England that 16,000 heathen persons were present in the great church built by old Mr. Thomas had joined the Christian community in Tinnevelly. thirty years ago, Bishop Sargent called on the voluntary evanThis was in those parts of the province which are gelists of that district to stand up, that he might say a few words

worked by the Society for the Propagation of the specially to them. Men instantly rose to their feet all over the Gospel, whose Mission is conducted by Bishop Caldwell. In church, and on counting them their number proved to be 124. some of that Society's districts the terrible South Indian Famine The Bishop affectionately showed them the advantage they poshad been particularly severe; and most generous contributions sessed over paid agents, telling them that “the work itself was had been sent from England to the S.P.G. missionaries for the the best of pay, and the Master they had to look to was the loving relief of the starving people. The result of this, and of Bishop Lord Jesus." He then called on any others to stand up who Caldwell's unwearied diligence at the same time in preaching were now willing to join them. Thirty-eight at once responded. journeys from place to place, was that when the Famine was sub- The Bishop gave these a cordial welcome, and then asked why siding, the poor creatures whose lives had been saved came the good work should be confined to men: would not the women forward in large numbers to embrace the religion that had led do something ? Seven women rose up and offered to do what English people to pity them. “The conviction generally pre- they could ; and the Bishop encouraged them by referring to vailed," wrote the Bishop, “ that whilst Hinduism had left the the example of the woman of Samaria in bringing her fellowfamine-stricken to die, Christianity had stepped in, like an angel townsmen to Christ. "I hardly know," he writes, “ which to from heaven, to comfort them with its sympathy and cheer them prefer in my thankfulness--the influx of so many heathen to with its effectual succour.”

receive Christian teaching, or the rousing up of our slumbering In the more extensive districts of Tinnevelly worked by the converts to a sense of their duty to the heathen."

UP THE NILE TO UGANDA.

man in a helmet like ours, so we thought it must be a European. As

soon as we got to the hut he ran out and said, "Good day, gentlemen," JOURNAL OF MR. R. W. FELKIN.

and he turned out to be the Indian servant of Mr. Wild, who used to

be consul at Jeddah. On alighting, Mr. Wild came and gave us a (Continued.)

hearty welcome, and you can imagine how glad we were to see a jolly ULY 6.-We left Obach at six, and had at first to cross the English face again, and to get a downright British shake of the hand.

sand hills. These are very soft, and the camels sunk deeply We soon became friends, and he told us he had just come from Khartum, at each step; they are a series of mounds, and so very steep wbere Colonel Gordon was expecting us. He gave us three fowls, which that sometimes we nearly overbalanced ourselves. It took were a great treat, and a good deal of general information. He had a us about an hour to cross the hills, and then we entered terrible journey to Berber three weeks ago. The monsoon blew against

the sandy desert, a flat plain, which extends from here to him for eight days, and he met several sand storms, so bad that his camels Berber. We saw here a few sand pislars formed by the wind, and one could not stand against them. His guide ran away; his men had one or or two sand showers passed over us, but we have seen no sand storms. two fights on the road; at one place he had great difficulty with the The largest lizard I have ever seen was caught by one man here; it people: this news made us all the more thankful that we had got through was 21 feet in length. They say that the leaves of some tree are an anti- safely. He had with him a young lion and two monkeys, which he was dote for its bite, but I cannot find out what tree it is. We rode on going to send to the Zoo, and a Nyam-Nyam, a boy who is a cannibal, till twelve, and as we approached the hut we saw a few camels and a and said he only wished he could get a bit of human flesh now! He gave

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us some Nile water: it was almost like café-au-lait, so thick with mud. tree with its promised shade. No tree, however, appeared ; sand, sand, After a few very pleasant hours with him we left at 4.40, and arrived nothing but sand in sight, with the mirage in the distance, which proved at 1.40 A.M. at Abailot, a broken-down hut without any water. Te were to be a great source of discomfort to us, as the view of what looked to be very tired, having ridden fifteen hours in the day.

beautiful water only increased the heat and thirst. On this part of our journey we passed many dead camels; in fact, On, on we went, our sheikh saying we should soon be there; our one could almost find the way from Suakim to Berber by the skeletons water was thick, hot, and nasty, the heat getting worse, and we were so and dried-up remains of camels, so very numerous are they,

tired. Several times we thought we must give up. We felt as though I also learnt a new dodge, viz., when wishing to go to sleep eat a we could go no further. We tried walking, but each step was like moderate-sized onion, and you will be asleep in no time; this is useful to putting one's foot into boiling water. There was no shade to be seen. know, but I have no onions to try yet—shall get some in Berber.

At last, after going through a season of discomfort I look back upon July 7.-We had hoped for a good sleep after the long ride and with horror, we saw in the distance what seemed to be a hut. Nearer fatigue of the previous day, but were sadly disappointed when our men

Was it the mirage ? No, that could not be; a hut, yes! woke us at four, and told us we must get ready for a start. It was hard work, truly a hut, and to our intense relief we found out that we had missed but Mr. Wild had told us that five hours from Abailot there was a very the tree, and by a forced march got to Moheber, the last station, and were large tree where we could rest during the heat, so we got ready, and were only two hours from Berber ! off at five. The first three hours were beautiful, so cool and pleasant, Thank God, it is over, and our dangers and difficulties past, at least for but at nine A.m. it became very hot, and we looked out eagerly for the the present, and you cannot think with what joy we dismounted and

we came.

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