II.

1

CHAP place; Fahrenheit's thermometer on the twentythird of July, at noon, in the shade, being 76°: when exposed to the sun's rays, the mercury rose in five minutes to 100°: in fourteen minutes to 110°, where it rested. The temperature of the river water, in the full current of a rapid cataract, equalled 67°. Our former observations, with regard to the pigmy stature of the Lapps, were confirmed by these gentlemen: they had not seen a Laplander whose height exceeded five feet. A singular circumstance respecting this people, which we had not noticed, was mentioned by Acerbi; namely, that they do not eat salt: this is the more extraordinary, considering the religious veneration in which salt is held, and the superstitions concerning spilling it, common to so many nations.

Baron Sil

ferhielm.

While we were thus engaged in an interesting conversation with these travellers, Baron Silferhielm, a Swedish nobleman, residing with his family in Uleåborg, was announced. He desired that we would use his house as our own, while we staid. Soon afterwards, another gentleman of the town sent us an invitation to one of those concerts which, under the direction of Acerbi, had, for the first time, been here instituted. We promised to join the party; and it was agreed, that, after the concert, we should all

II.

behaviour

sup with the Baron. We spent the day in CHAP. seeing the place, and in conversation with the resident merchants. A tradesman, by no means Generous rich, of the name of Fellman, to whom we had of a Merno letter either of introduction or credit, dis- chant. counted for us a bill upon Stockholm, for three hundred rix-dollars. May it not be asked, Whether in any other country, except Sweden, a foreigner would have met with a similar instance of unsuspecting liberality? Where would he find a town, in which the inhabitants, not satisfied with shewing the most unbounded hospitality to strangers, in all that relates to their comfortable accommodations, add, besides the offer of their houses and provisions, their purses also? Those who seek after motives in explaining, consistently with their own selfish propensities, the benevolent actions of others, will be puzzled to find any in this beyond unmixed virtue; for here were no seducing views of interest or of ostentation: the offer was proposed as privately as it was accepted; and if the person who made it be now living, this public acknowledgment of the trust he reposed in the wayfaring man that was come unto him," excepting the reward of his own heart, is all that he has gained by it. Uleå, as a town, is larger than Torneå: it is equal to Gefle in size,

Trade of

Uleå.

CHAP. but not so handsome. The Governor of the II. province resides here. Its trade consists in exporting tar, deals, dried fish, tallow, and pitch. Vessels go hence to Stockholm in about four days; and sometimes sail to London in the course of six weeks.

Entertainment given by Baron

the Baron.

After the concert was ended, we supped with His entertainment was sumptuous, Acerbi was placed at the head of the table; entertaining every body by his lively and engaging conversation. Among the ladies present, there was one of uncommon beauty, whom every body addressed by the name of Albertina. Many of the gentlemen, as it is customary in this and in some other countries, instead of being seated, walked round the table. The mention of these circumstances may appear trifling; but to us, the sudden transition, from scenes of savage life, was so extraordinary, that it seemed to be the effect of a dream. Within a very short space of time we had exchanged the wildernesses of Lapland for the luxuries of polished society; brilliant lustres, supporting English patent-lamps, being substituted for burning splinters; a magnificent saloon for a narrow, contracted, and smoky cabin; French confectionary for bread made of birch-bark and chopped straw; the most costly

Silferhielm. and the company numerous.

dainties, for raw or dried fish and flesh; beauty and wit and wine, for ugliness and stupidity and pima. Wonder not then, Reader, that we have been tempted to tell thee how we supped with Baron Silferhielm, at Uleåborg!

magnetism.

In the morning (Monday, August 19) we breakfasted with the Baron; who, being passionately. fond of mechanics, shewed us several of his own ingenious contrivances; and, among the rest, a portable bed for officers of the army, or travellers; so contrived, that all the apparatus belonging to it might be contained in a knapsack. But a promise which this nobleman had made to us on the preceding evening, of exhibiting his powers of Animal Magnetism, (an art which he Animal had been taught to practise in Paris, and of which we had heard marvellous accounts from Acerbi,) so much excited our curiosity, that we could attend to nothing else. We begged, therefore, that we might witness the effects of this art and being asked whether we would ourselves submit to its trial, we readily consented. Signor Bellotti and Mr. Cripps were the first selected for this purpose. As it was impossible to preserve gravity in the midst of the mummery and manipulation necessary for this species of conjuring, both these gentlemen burst into laughter, as soon as the Baron began

II.

CHAP. his gestures and tricks; but to our amazement, their laughter gradually subsided into a convulsive and tremulous motion of the cheeks, and they both fell fast asleep. The beautiful young lady, before mentioned under the name of Albertina, being also present, was next thrown into a trance, in the same way; during which she answered several questions that were put to her, without waking. Afterwards, the same sort of farce was attempted with Acerbi and with the author; but upon neither of them could the Baron produce any other effect, than that of making them laugh immoderately. Acerbi, however, who has gravely related all that passed upon this occasion', not being satisfied as to the means in which the trick was effected, said, "It is easier to laugh at this, than to explain it." But the fact must have been, that the young lady was an accomplice in the juggle; that Signor Bellotti and Mr. Cripps, fatigued with the length of the Hocus Pocus, took the liberty to doze; and that their more wary companions, disregarding the Baron's grimaces and attitudes, remained proof against all the influence of Animal Magnetism.

At six o'clock in the evening of this day,

(1) See Acerbi's Travels, Vol. I. p. 270. Lond. 1802.