water to Uleå is picturesque; but it was rendered more highly so, this evening, by the rising of the moon, in all her brightness, from behind the town. In this prospect, the wa rehouses o the merchants constituted a principal feature, and not the most pleasing part of it. They resemble so many large deal-boxes by the waterside, similar to what we saw at Umeå. Towards the left, appeared the Church, the Town-hall, and the greater part of the dwelling-houses. The streets of Uleå are of great length, and some of them are paved. We drove into the inn-yard, at a considerable distance from" the water-side; and were conducted into a small, but clean and comfortable apartment'.

(1) The same in which Acerbi met with the singular adventure, upon the night of his arrival at Uleåborg, which he has related in his Travels, Vol. I. p. 254. Lond. 1802.-The Reader may also consult Acerbi's work for some curious observations on the climate, &c. of Uleåborg.

to

CHAP. II.

FROM ULEÅBORG, IN OSTERO-BOTHNIA,
TO UMEÅ.

Signor Acerbi and his Party-Interview with that Tra-
veller · Colonel Skiöldebrand

National Music of Finland-North Cape-Baron Silferhielm-Generous behaviour of a Merchant-Trade of Uleå-Entertainment given by Baron Silferhielm-Animal Magnetism

Departure

II.

Signor

his Party.

Departure from Uleåborg-Plants-Mode of gibbetting Criminals-Brahestad-Origin of the Court Uniform of Sweden-Appearance of the Country-Finland Fishermen-Description of Ostero-Bothniå-Beginning of the Rainy Season-Gamla Carleby-State of Literature— Ny Carleby-Wasa-Musical Instrument called Hummer-Passage of the Quarken-Isle of Björkö-Quay of the Natives-Village of Björkö-Inhabitants—their contempt of wealth- Male and Female PeasantsPopulation-Vegetable Productions-l'oyage to Umeå -Antient Finnish Rhune-Popular Swedish Air-its versification imitated in an English Ode.

CHAP. WE had scarcely dismounted our baggage, before we heard that Signor Acerbi, and the Acerbi, and companions of his journey to the North Cape, were in the town: and almost in the same instant, Dr. Deutsch, of Torneå, entered our apartment, with an invitation to breakfast with the party on the following morning. Our curiosity to meet Acerbi was very great: we had been unintentionally in pursuit of him, from the time of our arrival in Sweden; having often arrived in places which he had recently quitted, without seeing him. The Reader will also recollect that he had arrived at Enontekis the day after we left it. Dr. Deutsch has been before mentioned, as the physician who attended the author upon the eve of his expedition to the source of the

II.

Muonio': he had followed Acerbi from Torneå, CHAP. attracted by his intelligent conversation and engaging manners; and, above all, by his love of music. Such was the extent of Acerbi's skill in music, that he could, at sight, adapt any number of variations to the most complicate pieces of composition; could perform upon a number of different instruments; and, by composing parts for several performers, he gratified the inhabitants of Uleåborg by a concert; the first they had ever heard in their lives: indeed, before his arrival, they had no other idea of an accompaniment, than that of several persons playing in unison: even a duet, consisting of two performers playing different notes, was unknown. Dr. Deutsch remained with us a part of the evening, speaking with great rapture of Acerbi's genius, of his enterprising spirit, inquisitive mind, quickness of apprehension, and the zeal for liberty by which he was characterized. Respecting the traits in which this last part of the character of an otherwise amiable man was displayed, we shall be silent: the desolating torrent of democracy, which was let loose upon the nations by the French Revolution, has found its level and if an inhabitant of the North of Italy,

(1) See Chap. IX. of the preceding Volume.

CHAP educated under a tyrannical Government, en-s HAPPY deavoured to extend the blessings of emancipa tion beyond the limits of his own country, by joining in the views of the French Republic, it was no more than might have been expected in an ardent and youthful mind, under similar political circumstances. Flying from the convulsive struggles of Europe at this time, our views and inquiries were directed towards any thing rather than political speculations: therefore, however e curious or important the real objects may have i been of Acerbi's visit to these remote regions, we shall only so far allude to them, as may serve to make known, at this distance of time, when the communication cannot be injurious, the extent of the Revolutionary influence then operating, throughout Europe, from the Mediter ranean to the Icy Sea. Our arrival at Uleåborg! had been expected by the inhabitants; and, consistently with Swedish hospitality, a concert of music, at which Acerbi was to preside, and a supper, had been prepared for our reception: but the lateness of our coming, added to some little indisposition on the part of the author, prevailed, in having us excused from attendance.

Interview

with that

Sunday, August 18. We set out, according Traveller. to invitation, to breakfast with Signor Acerbi ; being very desirous of a personal interview with