VIII.

Fortress of

CHAP panied us in a boat round the Bay. We visited the fortress, and saw the slaves at work. This Christiania. fortress is almost impregnable by land. We were much delighted with the view of the river and the country from the ramparts. The water is so land-locked, that its appearance is that of a fine extensive lake, ornamented with islands, and surrounded by blue mountains in very pleasing shapes: but as far as we could judge of their elevation by the view of them, they have not the height of the mountains which sur round the lakes of Westmoreland and Cumberland. The fortress seems to be strong; and there are some fine brass cannon upon the ramparts. The garrison consisted of twelve hundred men, including some chasseurs; and there were, besides, four companies of artillery. Afterwards, having dined privately with Mr. Anker, we retired with him to another apartment, where an elegant dessert had been set forth in the English way, with decanters of wine and glasses. We conversed with our intelligent host respecting the mines we had so lately visited; and he presented to us a specimen of native gold, found at a mine belonging to himself at Nummedalen near Kongsberg. In the evening, to gratify our curiosity, he put on his magnificent winter-dress, consisting of a pelisse, collar,

and boots, of the choicest black furs. The pelisse was made entirely of the skins of sables, and the collar and boots of bear's-skin. We had examined the fur-shops, in the hope of finding the skins of the Cat-Gaub, or Norwegian Lynx; but the animal, although sometimes taken, is certainly very rare in the country; and it is fortunate for the inhabitants that its visits are not more frequent. We spent the last evening of our stay in Christiania with this benevolent man; and having supped with him in the presence of his family, bade them farewell.

CHAP.

VIII.

IN SWEDEN.

The Author again sets out for SWEDEN-Execrable state of the Roads before the snow falls-Holen-Change in the Roads in approaching Sweden-Spires of Norwegian $ Churches-Kiölstad-Hæberg-Cataract of Fon Fossen -Ous-Sindby-Appearance made by a Fair at Kongswinger-Money of the Country-Edsbroen-MagnorBoundary between NORWAY and SWEDEN-Singular instance of honesty in a Peasant-Morast-HagaStrand-Homeric Torches-Extraordinary Costume of the Natives of WERMELAND-Aspect of the Country

Conse

Consequences of a recent Dearth-Hogsalla-LeerholSkamnäs-Improved appearance of the land-CARLSTAD -Exports and Imports-Population - River Clara Brästegård Molkem-Change in the dress of the Peasants-Manner of keeping the Roads in repair-Brättefors Boulders-Trees-Animals-Philipstad-Uniform appearance of the Swedish Towns-Dress of the Natives Enclosures-Juniper-trees-Onshytta-Two species of Tetrao or Black-Cock-Persberg-Descent into the Iron-Mines-Catastrophe which befell a Female Miner-Bottom of the Persberg Mine-Striking scene in the Great Cavern-Imbedded state of the Ore-Långbanshytta-Machinery for the Mine-Pumps-SaxånWESTMANIA-Hälleforss-Nytorp-NyakopparbergMinerals-Laxbro-Beauty of the Lakes-diminution of their waters-Hogforss-Hellsion-Ostanbo-Smedbacka-Blood-Cakes Entrance of DALECARLIA — Varieties and luxuriance of the Fungi and Musci Bommarsbo-Home Manufacture of Candles-RussGården-Naglarby-General Features of DALECARLIA -Character of the Natives-Dialect-Antient DanceOriginal use of the Runic Staves-Retreat of Gustavus Vasa-Approach to Fahlun-External Aspect of its famous Copper-Mine.

IX.

In the morning of the 29th of October, we left CHAP. Christiania in our phaëton, and once more began our journey towards SWEDEN. For this purpose, it was necessary that we should retrace our former steps as far as Moe, before we took

a different route; but the roads were so

U

The author

again sets

out for

Sweden.

IX.

CHAP. execrable, that we were actually employed the whole day in getting to this place, although state of the distant only three Danish miles and a half from We passed through a beautiful

Execrable

Roads be

fore the snow falls,

Christiania.
valley between Romsaas and Schesmoe, as before.
The inns were bad; and this being added to
the wretched state of the roads, and the little
progress we were able to effect, made us think
that we had acted perhaps unwisely in not
waiting for the winter season, which is the
best time for travelling in Scandinavia, especially
when the country is not likely to offer any
thing in its scenery remarkable either for its
grandeur or picturesque beauty. When the
snow has once fallen, and the sledge-way is
open, a traveller, wrapped up in his furs, may
prosecute his journey in the open air, not only
with the utmost expedition, but with comfort.
But we intended to visit mines; and, in our
search for minerals and plants, wished to see as
much as possible of the uncovered earth, before
the woodlands of Norway and Sweden, their hills
and their valleys, rocks, mountains, lakes, and
rivers, were all shrouded in one vast sheet of
ice and snow.

The next morning, Oct. 30, after a stormy
night, dawned most merrily; the sun burst forth
in splendour; even the feathered songsters, in