CHAP. VI. works of we went from Lunden to Bandelie, on the shore of a small lake called Hudal's Water. In this journey we passed the Fjäls once more, being conducted over the top of a high mountain covered with snow. Our first stage was to a place called Grônna, whence we proceeded to Garsjoe, and there visited some glass-works. GlassThis manufactory also belongs to the Crown; Garsjoe. but it is farmed to Messrs. Wexley and Co. of Christiania. The glass made here is white; the sand used in its manufacture being found in a mountain behind the village. The workmen imitate all sorts of patterns, and sell their ware remarkably cheap. Cylinders for the largest electrical machines sold here for two dollars apiece. We had some glass blown for common use in travelling. Two thousand dollars monthly are earned in these works. The proprietor pays the king about five thousand dollars annually: the profit must therefore be very considerable. It is said that the same company hold all the glass-works in Norway. Our next stage from Garsjoe brought us to Bandelie, Bandelie where we found a good inn; but the rooms, as before, were heated with stoves. since which time a variety of it, if it be not the same plant, has been cultivated in the North of England. It is more hardy even than the Swedish turnip, and is of a darker colour internally. CHAP. Roholt. In our first stage from Bandelie, October the thirteenth, about a quarter of a Norway mile before we arrived at Roholt, we again joined the king's road, and found it execrable. The other road, although we had complained of it at the beginning, was much better. Just at the junction of the two roads there is a large iron-foundry. Afterwards, the road became almost impassable: our little phaëton was nearly buried in deep holes and mud. When we reached the Dragvold. end of the second stage at Dragvold, we hired an additional pair of horses. The rainy season had begun; but the weather was in other respects mild. The mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer, this day at noon, stood at 53°. The corn here was uncut. From Dragvold, through Moe', to Schesmoe, was a journey only of two Norway miles; yet this was all we could accomplish, owing to the state of the roads. The country about Moe and Schesmoe is much cultivated. The inn was bad at Schesmoe, and, being Sunday, the men and women were all of the Sab- drunk. Some gentlemen politely ceded to us Moe. Strange observance bath. (1) Moe is a name which very frequently occurs in Norway. There is a place with the same name on the eastern shore of the Miösen. By a note in Von Buch's Travels, (p. 70. Lond. 1813.) we learn, that “its original signification is 'a small sand-hill,' which can be distinguished between mountains and rocks." the room in which they were sitting. Throughout Norway, as in Sweden, the inhabitants play cards upon the day of the Sabbath; and balls and other revels are more frequent upon Sunday than upon any other day. state of the Roads near the Capital. October the fourteenth, having ordered four Execrable horses for the phaëton, we set out for CHRISTIANIA. In our first stage to Romsaas, as in the second, we found the roads in such a state, that we almost despaired of making any progress. Our harness was continually breaking; and the poor horses, floundering in the deep mud, were again almost buried. Rain fell incessantly the whole way. Red granite, of a beautiful grain and texture, appeared in loose fragments by the way-side. In going from Romsaas to Christiania, our difficulties increased: the road, though wide and capable of improvement, is by much the worst in all Norway. About half-a-mile from Christiania, as we descended towards the town, we had a prospect of the CAPITAL of Norway. Its appearance, although neither so grand nor so picturesque as that of Trönÿjem, was yet very striking, owing to the throng of shipping before the town, and the number of islands lying off, in its extensive bay. As we entered the streets, we observed that they Arrival at were crowded with beggars: a number of miserable objects beset the door of the inn to Christiania. VI. CHAP. which we were conducted. There is less of a Scandinavian character in CHRISTIANIA than in any other town of the North: the houses are built of stone; log-houses being confined entirely to the suburbs: the streets, intersecting each other at right-angles, are wide and straight. The drivers of our post-horses took us to Thom's, an excellent inn, provided with every thing necessary to a traveller's accommodation, and where the charges were very reasonable. We had the happiness to find here Letters from England, giving us the first intelligence of our absent friends which we had received since we embarked for the Continent. The most difficult part of our undertaking seemed now to be accomplished: the rest of our journey, through Sweden and Finland, into Russia, lay over a more beaten track. We therefore fixed our residence, for a short time, in Christiania; determined to make excursions into the neighbourhood, and to visit the silver-mines of Kongsberg. As we were meditating upon the satisfaction this scheme would afford, a bustle at the door announced the entrance of a very great man; no less a personage than the Chamberlain BERNARD ANKER himself; who came to welcome our arrival; conducting two English Gentlemen, Messrs. Kent and Jarret, whom he kindly introduced to our acquaintance. Situation of Bergen with respect to the rest of NorwayBernard and Peter Anker-Visit to the GovernorA Rout Barbarisms- Army Regulations Laws respecting Marriage-Climate- Nobility-Character of Prince Frederic-State of the Army-Danish Policy with regard to Norway-Domestic Economy at Christiania Hospitable Entertainment-Anecdotes of the Emperor Paul of Russia-Antient Teutonic Customs Lamentable |