landers-Kiemi Fair-Sunday Ball at the ParsonageOf the Lapland and Finland Languages-Universality of Superstitions respecting Sneezing-Cypripedium bulbosum-Haymaking in the Streets of Torneå-Visit to a Swedish Family-Stale of Natural History in Sweden - Curious example of the power of genius-Dinner given to the Torneå Merchants-Prevalence of Intoxication Character of the Finns - Departure from Torneå― Extraordinary Refraction of the Atmosphere -Antient Fable of the Egg of Night-Uncultivated Fruits-Forest on fire-Visit to the Minister-Departure from Kiemi-Difference discernible upon entering Finland-Kjanfraniemi - Alafva-Ijo-HaukebodasPopulation and Agriculture-Jukuri-Arrival at Uleåborg.

CHAP. AT its junction with the Kiemi river, the Aunis 1. loses its name; and immediately after passing the point of confluence, we came to one of the principal Cataracts, having a Fall more considerable than any we had seen. We stopped to dine at a place called Korkila'; already observing a great change in the manners of the people. Our rooms at Korkila were fitted up with the ners of the elegancies of painted tables, and with windowframes; refinements unknown beyond the Arctic Circle. We had, moreover, the satisfaction to

Korkila.

Change in

the Man

People.

(1) Hermelin's Map is very erroneous with respect to this part of the country. The church which he has placed at Ravaniemi, on the Arctic Circle, is at Korkila, below the confluence of the two rivers, on the western shore of the Kiemi.

observe, what does not always attend upon an increase of luxury, namely, cleanliness, in its utmost perfection. The house at which we were entertained bears the Swedish name of Gåstgifvaregård; by which word is meant an Inn: certain farms being appointed by the Governors of the provinces to serve as inns, and to supply boats, to merchants or other travellers passing up or down the rivers.

CHAP.

I.

The Minister at Korkila supplied us with some tea and sugar, and a little brandy. One third of the said tea was made up with a mixture of cloves and other spices: this mixture, throughout most parts of Sweden, was used in preparing an infusion which the inhabitants considered as a sad substitute for their favourite beverage, coffee; now universally and rigorously prohibited. Here we saw the sort of palisade, or hedge, stretching across the river, which is so commonly used in all these rivers, as a fence to intercept, and to facilitate the taking of salmon. The Aunis having now sufficient depth to admit the passage of large craft, we were no longer under the necessity of hiring two boats. In all the forests and fields south of Korkila is found that beautiful wild pink, the Dianthus superbus of Dianthus Linnæus. Just after leaving the place, as we. were walking by the side of the river, we found

superbsu.

CHAP.

I.

Descent of a Cataract.

this Dianthus flourishing in great abundance. The seed-vessels being ripe, we collected some of them, and afterwards sent the seed, in letters, to England. In the Botanic Garden at Cambridge, there still remain many thriving plants, derived from this spot: but their appearance was more beautiful upon the banks of the Aunis; because a luxuriant soil, and a longer although not a warmer summer, draws the stems to a préposterous length, without increasing the size of the flowers. North of this place, the Dianthus superbus is very rare; but the whole way from Korkila to Kiemi it grows in the greatest profusion; and in some places the ground is entirely covered with it'.

Having to descend a steep and powerful cataract, we entered the boat, and were precipitated along with it. Rapid as our progress was, we struck sometimes with violence upon the rocks; whence bounding into the midst of the surge, we took in so much water, that it required every effort to keep us afloat. In the turbulent

(1) It is considered as a rarity by the Swedish Botanists; some of whom requested that we would search for it in Lapland. It is very rare in Sweden; but common in Finland. It grows near the Finnish Church at Torneů; also south of Kiemi; in Ostero-Bothnia, especially in the vicinity of Haukebodas; where we found the finest specimens, although the plants were but thinly scattered; the flowers being larger than any we ever saw elsewhere. In its wild state, towards evening, its fragrance is very great.

I.

scene thus afforded, we saw wild-ducks sporting CHAP. and diving around us, in the very midst of the cataract. Those artful birds, whenever they are disturbed in these rivers, generally make for the nearest cataract; seemingly conscious, that, by diving into the headlong torrent, they will the more quickly pass with their brood to such a distance from the persons pursuing them as to be removed out of their reach. Below this fall, the Aunis was a hundred fathoms wide; deep, rapid, dark, and clear; its shores lofty, and broken by rocks into rugged precipitous cliffs. Among the large stones and loose pebbles lying below these cliffs, the Epilobium angustifolium, of prodigious height and size, adorned the sides. of the river with high mounds of showy, purple flowers: it may be considered as the garland of Lapland; often attaining the greatest magnitude, when every other sign of vegetation diminishes. The Lapps call it Almoke. Among the inhabitants of Dalecarlia, this plant is called Heaven's Grass3: it is the same known in England by the name of Rose-bay Willow-herb, and it may be found all over Europe, from Lapland to Italy; although it be not very common in Great Britain. Just

(2) "Flore valde specioso." Dillen. Catal. pl. circa Giss. 131. 1719. (3) Himmelsgraes. Flora Lapp. Linnæi, p. 113. Amst. 1737.

CHAP. before we came to a place called Rautio, we saw,

I.

Vessel of

dred tons

launched.

on the eastern side of the river, the cradle of a three hun- ship of considerable size, that had been newly launched. It was a vessel of 300 tons burden; built by a Lieutenant of the Swedish army, and now aground in the midst of the Kiemi river, opposite Kiemi Church, within a hundred yards of the spot whence it would have had a safe passage to the Gulph of Bothnia. A bolder attempt was perhaps never made, in the history of navigation it is really astonishing, that a ship of such magnitude should have been conveyed from this spot, where she was launched, over all the shallows, and down all the cataracts, to the place where she so unfortunately struck, when her owners were upon the point of triumphing in their undertaking. They chose, it is true, a season of the year when the river is swoln by floods: but when it is considered, that our little canoe, as it might comparatively be called, was with difficulty impelled along the same passage, and that, notwithstanding all the experience of our pilots, we were often striking against the rocks, it is hard to conceive how a vessel of 300 tons could be kept buoyant in such a channel. The peasants felt a great interest in her fate; and many of them assured us that they did not despair of being able to get