CHAP.

.II.

Here we terminated our investigation, as far as it related to Bruce's account of Abyssinia; and the result of it left a conviction upon our minds, not only of the general fidelity of that author, but that no other book of travels, published so long after the events took place which he has related, and exposed to a similar trial, would have met with equal testimony of its truth and accuracy'.

(1) In the interesting memoir of Mr. Salt's Journey in Abyssinia, as published by Lord Valentia, its author has assailed the veracity of Bruce, in a manner which may be lamented by those who hold Mr. Salt's Narrative in the highest estimation: and for this reason; that, with an evident disposition to dispute the correctness of Bruce's representation, no writer has contributed more effectually to the establishment of Bruce's credit. Mr. Salt speaks in the most positive terms of the accuracy with which Bruce has detailed his historical information. (See Lord Valentia's Travels, vol.III. pp. 163. 209. &c. &c. Lond. 1809.) He also mentions the astonishment of the natives at his own knowledge of their history: (Ibid. p. 227.) and, above all, that he was considered by them as a superior being, when he exhibited Bruce's drawings of Gondar. (Ibid.) In many other instances he bears ample testimony to Bruce's accuracy. (See vol. II. p. 460. 480. &c.; vol. III. Pp. 163.211.217. See also the instances adduced in the Edinb. Encyclop. vol.V. Purt I. pp. 9, 10.) When to all this is added the evidence afforded by the celebrated Browne (See Preface to his Travels), in support of the few facts which are questioned by Mr. Salt, and the opinion given of his work by the Commander-in-chief of the British army sent from India by the Red Sea, as before alluded to, we may surely consider the writings of this illustrious traveller to be placed beyond the reach of cavil: and we ought to agree with that profound scholar, (See Vincent's Periplus of the Erythr. Sea, p. 93.) who, maintaining that Bruce's work "bears throughout internal marks of veracity," considered it to be a duty NOT TO TREAT WITH INGRATITUDE THOSE WHO EXPLORE THE DESERT FOR OUR INFORMATION."

Arabic Language, as spoken in Egypt-Dress of the Women in Caïro-State of Society-Houses-GardensCeremony of Ululation in honour of the Dead-Exaggerated Descriptions of the Country-Supposed Sacrifice of a Virgin to the Nile-Book Market-Antient Medals in circulation-Custom of the Arabs in passing a Bridge-Appearance of Women in the StreetsEnormities practised by the Turks-Extortions-Discovery of a curious Manuscript - Citadel-Pointed Arches-Interesting Inscription-Mosaic PaintingPresent State of the Art-Joseph's Well-Origin of the Citadel-View from the Ramparts.

III.

ANY Englishman hearing a party of Egyptian CHAP. Arabs in conversation, and being ignorant of their language, would suppose they were quar

III.

Arabic
Language,

in Egypt.

CHAP. relling. The Arabic, as spoken by Arabs, is more guttural even than the Welsh; but the dialect of Egypt appeared to us to be particularly harsh. as spoken It is always spoken with a vehemence of gesticulation, and loudness of tone, which is quite a contrast to the stately sedate manner of speaking among the Turks: we were constantly impressed with a notion that the Arabs, in conversation, were quarrelling. More than once we ordered the interpreter to interfere, and to pacify them; when it appeared that we were mistaken, and that nothing was further from their feelings, at the time, than anger. The effect is not so unpleasing to the ear, when Arab women converse; although the gesticulation be nearly the same. Signor Rosetti', whose hospitality to strangers has been celebrated by every traveller in Egypt during nearly half a century, introduced us to a Venetian family, of the name of Pini3, in which there were many beautiful young women, and with

66

(1) Mr. Bruce mentions him (Trav. vol. I. p. 30. Edinb. 1790.) under the name of Carlo Rosetti, a Venetian merchant, a young man of capacity and intrigue." Bruce was in Caïro in the beginning of July, 1768. Signor Rosetti told us he well remembered Bruce, and entertained no doubt as to the truth of the narrative which he published concerning his travels.

(2) "There is also at Caïro a Venetian Consul, and a house of that nation called Pini, all excellent people." Bruce's Trav. vol. I. p. 26.

III.

the Women

whom we had frequent opportunity of hearing CHAP. the Arabic, as spoken by the most polished females of the city. The dress of those young Dress of ladies was much more elegant than any female in Cairo. costume we had before observed in the East, and it was entirely borrowed from the Antients. A zone placed immediately below the bosom served to confine a loose robe, open in front, so as to display a pair of rich pantaloons. The feet were covered with embroidered slippers, but the ankle and instep were naked; and round the lower part of the leg, above the ankle, they wore cinctures of massive gold, resembling the golden cincture discovered in a tomb near the Cimmerian Bosporus, and represented in a former part of this work'.

Society.

Denon speaks of the pleasurable sensations State of daily excited by the delicious temperature of Cairo, causing Europeans, who arrive with the intention of spending a few months in the place, to remain during the rest of their lives, without ever persuading themselves to leave it. Few persons, however, with whom we associated, were disposed to acquiesce in the opinion of this very amiable writer. Those who are

(3) See Vol. II. Chap. II. p. 72. Octavo edition.

III.

CHAP. desirous of uninterrupted repose, or who are able to endure the invariable dulness which prevails in every society to which strangers are admitted, may, perhaps, tolerate, without murmuring, a short residence in the midst of this dull and dirty city. The effect, whether it be of climate, or of education, or of government, is the same among all the settlers in Egypt, except the Arabs; namely, a disposition to exist without exertion of any kind; to pass whole days upon beds and cushions; smoking, and counting beads. This is what Maillet termed Le vrai génie Egyptienne'; and that it may be acquired by residing among the native inhabitants of Caïro, is evident from the appearance exhibited by Europeans who have passed some years in the city,

Upon our first coming, we had no other place of lodging than what our djerm afforded. This was stationed, during the day, at Bulâc, and it was guarded by our faithful Arabs. Every night these men moved our vessel over to the Isle of Rhouda, and anchored close to the camp of the Indian army, with a view to avoid the

(1) Déscription de l'Egypte, tom, II. p. 220. à la Haye, 1740.