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IV.

CHAP. with grace as well as art. The dance, like that of the Almehs in Egypt, although full of the grossest libidinous expression, and most indecent posture, is in other respects graceful. Nothing can be more so than the manner in

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which they sometimes wave and extend their arms it resembles the attitudes of Bacchanalians represented on Greek vases. But the women do not often exhibit those attitudes: they generally maintain a stiff upright position, keeping their feet close, and beating a tattoo with their high heels.

When the Russians dance the barina, it is accompanied with the balalaika. Formerly the nobles were great admirers of that simple and pleasing instrument; but now, imitating

IV.

the manners of France and England, they have CHAP. laid it aside. Many of them are still able to use it; but as they deem such an accomplishment a sort of degradation in the eyes of foreigners, they are seldom prevailed upon to betray their skill; like many of the Welsh ladies, who, scarcely able to speak English, affect ignorance of their native tongue.

Collected in other parts of rooms opened for this assembly, were vocal performers, in parties of ten or twelve each, singing voluntaries. They preserved the most perfect harmony, each taking a separate part, although without any seeming consciousness of the skill thus exerted. The female dancers and assistants in this ball were many of them prostitutes; but the wives and daughters of the peasants and lower tradesmen mingled with these women, dressed out in their full national costume, and were apparently not at all displeased with such society.

Nobles,

The ball of the nobles admits of a very diffe- Ball of the rent description. It took place every Tuesday; and, it may be truly said, that Europe exhibits nothing like it. The laws of the society exclude every person who is by birth a plebeian; and this exclusion has been extended to foreigners;

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CHAP. therefore we felt grateful in being allowed admission. Prince Viazemskoy, who married an English lady, kindly procured tickets for us; notwithstanding the danger at that time of shewing kindness and attention to Englishmen '. If his Excellency be now living, he is requested to pardon this testimony of his generous condescension. The author feels sensible that a congeniality of sentiment will render any apology superfluous for the sacrifice he has elsewhere made in the cause of truth.

The coup d'œil, upon entering the grand saloon, is inconceivable. The company consisted of near two thousand persons. The dresses were the most sumptuous that can be imagined; and, what is more remarkable, they were conceived in the purest taste, and were in a high degree becoming. The favourite ornaments of the ladies, at this time, were cameos, which they wore upon their arms, in girdles round their waists, or upon their bosoms; a mode of adorning the fair that has since found its way to our own country, and

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(1) I wish to lay particular stress upon this circumstance, as almost all travellers have celebrated Russian hospitality, and particularly that of the inhabitants of Moscow. L'hospitalité des Russes," say the Authors of the Voyage de Deux Français, " paroît ici dans tout son jour."

was originally derived from Paris; but the women of France and England may go to Moscow to see their own fashions set off to advantage. The drapery was disposed chiefly after the Grecian costume, and the hair worn bound up round the head. The modes of dress in London and Paris are generally blended together by the ladies of Moscow, who select from either that which may become them best; and, in justice to their charms, it must be confessed no country in the world can boast of superior beauty. When, in addition to their personal attractions, it is considered, that the most excessive extravagance is used to procure whatever may contribute to their adornment; that a whole fortune is sometimes lavished upon a single dress; that they are assembled in one of the finest rooms in the world, lighted and decorated with matchless elegance and splendour; it may be supposed the effect has never been surpassed.

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Dress.

In such an assembly, we had every reason Caprice in to suppose a couple of English travellers might

(2) It is related very generally, in the higher circles of the city, that a Princess of Moscow, who had purchased a wig to imitate the colour of her own hair, confined her hair-dresser in a closet, fed him always herself, and allowed him only to come out during her toilette, in order that her false tresses might not be detected.

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pass without notice. We had, moreover, a particular reason for hoping this would be the case; as, in obedience to a decree of the Emperor PAUL, we had collected our short hair into a queue, which appeared most ridiculously curtailed, sticking out, like any thing but that which it was intended to represent, and most remarkably contrasted with the long tails of the Russians. Unfortunately, the case was otherwise; and a curiosity to see the two Englishmen becoming general, to our great dismay we found ourselves surrounded by a crowd of persons, some of whom thought proper to ask, who cut our hair? Such questions, it may be conceived, did not add to the evening's amusement; but our astonishment was completed the next day, in receiving the thanks and blessings of a poor ragged barber, who had powdered us at the inn, and whose fortune he assured us we had made; all the young nobles having sent for him, to cut and dress their hair in the same ridiculous manner'.

Such a trifling incident would not have been mentioned, if it had not ultimately taken a

(1) A review of this work has appeared in America, professedly written by a Russian; indeed, it bears strong internal evidence of such an origin. Its author, speaking of this anecdote, confesses "that it has all the appearance of being rigorously true." The same

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