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XI.

lowing, into the village. No driver was neces- СНАР. sary; for, as the herd entered, they separated into parties, and retired of their own accord to their respective owners, in order to be milked. The Malo-Russians, with their numerous families, were seated upon the ground, in circles before their neat little habitations, eating their supper; and, being all merry together, offered a picture of contentment and of peace not often found within Russian territories'.

first Sta

Don Cos

About four in the afternoon of the next day, Metscha. having been detained for want of horses at Metscha, we arrived at KASANKAIA, one of the Kasankaia, largest stanitzas of the DoN COSSACKS, and the nitza of the first within their territory. As we are now sacks. entering upon the description of a very interesting part of our journey, we shall be particularly careful to note every observation that may occur, relating to a country rarely visited, and, upon that account, very little known; where every thing is interesting, because every thing presents what travellers from other countries have not seen before. The independent mode of life of the people; their indolence at home; their activity in war; their remote situation

(1) We observed here a plant which grows on the Hills near Cambridge, the Hedysarum Onobrychis.

CHAP. with regard to the rest of Europe; the rank they

XI.

hold in the great scale of society; the history of their origin; their domestic manners, and character; all these require consideration.

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TERRITORY OF THE DON COSSACKS. Appearance of the Cossacks at Kasankaia-House of the Ataman-Ideal Dangers of the Country-Voyage by Water-Amusements and Dances of the People-Departure-Steppes-River Lazovai-Visit to a Camp of Calmucks-Of their Brandy distilled from Mare's Milk

-Personal Appearance of Calmucks-Arts, Armour, and Weapons-Recreations and Condition of LifeAcenovskaia-Of the Suroke, or Bobac, of the SteppesThe Biroke and Suslic-Nature of Villages named in Russian Maps-Stragglers from the Army-Distinction between Cossacks of the Steppes and of the DonKamenskaia-Iron Foundries of Lugan-Etymology of the word TANAÏS-Numerous Camps of CalmucksApproach to Axay.

THERE is something extremely martial, and CHAP even intimidating, in the first appearance of a

XII.

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Appear

Cossacks at

CHAP. COSSACK. His dignified and majestic took; his elevated brows, and dark mustachoes; his tall ance of the helmet of black wool, terminated by a crimson Kasankai, sack, with its plume, laced festoon, and white cockade; his upright posture; the ease and elegance of his gait; give him an air of great importance. We found Cossacks in considerable number at Kasankaia, lounging before their houses, and conversing in such large parties, that it seemed as if we were entering their capital. Their dresses were much richer than any thing we had observed in Russia, although all were uniform. Each person's habit consisted of a blue jacket, edged with gold and lined with silk, fastened by hooks across the chest. Beneath the jacket appeared a silk waistcoat, the lower part of which was concealed by the sash. Large and long trowsers, either of the same material as the jacket, or of white dimity, kept remarkably clean, were fastened high above the waist, and covered their boots. The sabre is not worn, except on horseback, upon a journey, or in war. In its stead is substituted a switch, or cane, with an ivory head: this every Cossack bears in his hand, as an appendage of his dress; being at all times prepared to mount his horse at a moment's notice. Their cap or helmet is the most beautiful part of the costume; because it is becoming to every set of features. It adds

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considerably to the height, and gives, with CHAP. the addition of whiskers, a military air to the most insignificant figure. They wear their hair short round the head, but not thin upon the crown it is generally dark, thick, and quite straight. The cap is covered by a very soft and shining black wool. Some of them have civil and military distinctions of habit; wearing in time of peace, instead of the jacket, a long frock without buttons. The sash is sometimes yellow, green, or red, although generally black; and they wear large military gloves. There is no nation in the world more neat with regard to dress; and, whether young or old, it appears to become them all. A quiet life seems quite unsuited to their disposition: they loiter about, having then no employment to interest them; and being devoted to war, seem distressed by the indolence of peace.

the Ala

, man.

The Ataman, or Chief of the stanitza, approached House of us with very great respect and complaisance, as soon as we arrived. Notice at the same time was given to all the inhabitants, not to quit the town without his knowledge, until every thing the travellers might require should be ascertained and provided. He begged to conduct us to "quarters," as he expressed it; and brought us, for that purpose, to his own house, which he

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