IX.

CHAP. numerous table, that should any one of the satellites usually surrounding them forsake his post at dinner, to swell the train of any other person, the offence is rarely forgiven; they will afterwards persecute the deserter, by every means of revenge within their power. We met with persons who were victims of their own affability, in having accepted invitations which decoyed them from the banquets of their lord. Similar motives have given rise to the prodigious hospitality described by travellers. Before the reign of PAUL, a stranger was no sooner arrived in Moscow, than the most earnest solicitations were made for his regular attendance at the table of this or that nobleman. If his visits were indiscriminate, jealousy and quarrels were the inevitable consequence. During the reign of PAUL, Englishmen were guests likely to involve the host in difficulty and danger; but, notwithstanding the risk incurred, it is but justice to acknowledge, that the nobles felt themselves highly gratified by the presence of a stranger; and, having requested his attendance, they would close their gates upon his equipage, lest it should be discerned by the officers of the police.

The curious spectacle exhibited at their dinners has not a parallel in the rest of Europe.

IX.

Barbarous

observed at

The dishes and the wines correspond in grada- CHAP. tion with the rank and condition of the guests. Those who sit near the master of the house are Etiquette suffered to have no connection with the fare or Russian the tenants at the lower end of the table. In Tables. barbarous times we had something of the same nature in England; and perhaps the custom is not even now quite extinct in Wales, or in English farm-houses, where all the family, from the master to the lowest menial, sit down together. The choicest viands at a Russian table are carefully placed at the upper end, and are handed to those guests stationed near the owner of the mansion, according to the order in which they sit; afterwards, if any thing remain, it is taken gradually to the rest. Thus a degree in precedency makes all the difference between something and nothing to eat; for persons at the bottom of the table are often compelled to rest satisfied with an empty dish. It is the same with regard to the wines the best are placed near the top of the table; but, in proportion as the guests are removed from the post of honour, the wine becomes of a worse quality, until at last it degenerates into simple quass. Few things can offer more repugnance to the feelings of an Englishman, than the example of a wealthy glutton boasting of the choice wines he has set before a foreigner merely out of ostentation, while a number

IX.

CHAP. of brave officers and dependents are sitting by him, to whom he is unable to offer a single glass. We sometimes essayed a violation of this barbarous custom, by taking the bottles placed before us, and filling the glasses of those below; but the offer was generally refused, through fear of giving offence by acceptance; and it was a mode of conduct which we found could not be tolerated, even by the most liberal host. Two tureens of soup usually make their appearance, as we often see them in England; but if a stranger should ask for that which is at the bottom of the table, the master of the house regards him with dismay; the rest all gaze at him with wonder; and when he tastes what he has obtained, he finds it to be a mess of dirty and abominable broth, stationed for persons who never venture to ask for soup from the upper end of the table. The number of attendants in waiting is prodigious. In the house of the young Count Orlof were not less than five hundred servants; many being sumptuously clothed, and many others in rags. It was no unusual sight to observe behind a chair a fellow in plumes and gold lace, like a Neapolitan runningfootman, and another by his side looking like a beggar from the streets.

A droll accident befel two English gentlemen

СНАР.

IX.

English

of considerable property, who were travelling for amusement in the South of Russia. They Anecdote were at Nicholaef; and being invited by the of two Chief Admiral to dinner, they were placed, as men. usual, at the head of the table; where they were addressed by the well-known title of Milords Anglois. Tired of this ill-placed distinction, they assured the Admiral that they were not Lords. "Allow me then to ask," said their host, "what is the rank which you possess?" The lowest Russian admitted to an Admiral's table has a certain degree of rank; all who are in the service of the Crown being considered as noble by their profession: and, as there is no middle class of society in the country, but every member of it is either a Nobleman or a Slave, there is no such distinction as that of an independent Gentleman, neither is the term understood, unless there be some specific title annexed to it The Englishmen, however, replied, that they had no other rank than that of English Gentlemen. "But your titles? You must have some title!" "No, (said they) we have no title, but that of English Gentlemen." A general silence, and many sagacious looks, followed this last declaration. On the following day they presented themselves again at the hour of dinner, and were taking their station as before. To their surprise, they found that each person present, one after the

IX.

CHAP. other, placed himself above them. One was a General; another a Lieutenant; a third an Ensign; a fourth a Police-officer; a fifth an Army Surgeon; a sixth a Secretary; and so on. All this was very well; they consoled themselves with the prospect of a snug party at the bottom of the table, where they would be the farther removed from ceremony: but, lo! when the dishes came round, a first was empty; a second contained the sauce without the meat; a third, the rejected offals of the whole company; and at length they were compelled to make a scanty meal, upon the slice of black bread before them, and a little dirty broth from the humble tureen, behind whose compassionate veil they were happy to hide their confusion; at the same time being more amused than mortified, at an adventure into which they now saw they had brought themselves by their unassuming frankness. Had either of them said, as was really the case, that they were in the service of his Britannic Majesty's Militia, or Members of the Associated Volunteers of London, they would never have encountered so unfavourable a reception.

But more serious difficulties frequently follow a want of attention to these prejudices, in visitPrecaution ing the interior of Russia. When a poderosnoy, in Travel- or order for post-horses, is made out, it will

to be used

ling.