VIL

assured us nothing of any importance existed CHAP. among those manuscripts. The priest translated, or pretended to translate, some of their titles, from the Sclavonic language, into Latin. If the account he gave us can be relied on, the collection contains the Travels of Pilgrims to Jerusalem in very remote periods.

In Russian characters, illuminated, and written upon antient vellum paper, is a folio copy of the Gospels, most beautifully transcribed by ANNE, daughter of MICHAEL FEODOROVICH. We were also shewn, as at Petersburg, some carving in wood by PETER THE GREAT. This was a small box, containing a letter, dated 1697, sent by him, from Sardam in Holland, to the Patriarchs at Moscow. The priest permitted us to make a fac-simile of his hand-writing: for this purpose we copied with great care the signature to his letter. It was simply his Christian name, and thus written:

Piter

lin.

Having obtained the keys from the secretary's Super of office, we were admitted to see the famous the KremModel of the Kremlin, according to the plan for its erection under the auspices of the late Empress. It is one of the most curious things in Moscow. If the work had been completed, it

CHAP. Would have been the wonder of the world.

VII.

The

architect who constructed the plan was a Russian, and had studied in Paris'. This model cost fifty thousand roubles. The expense necessary for the accomplishment of the undertaking (as the architect Camporesi, who made the estimate, assured us) would have been fifty millions of roubles. The calculation laid before the Empress stated the amount only at twenty millions. The work was begun; but, it is said, the falling in of a part of the foundation determined the Empress against its prosecution. From the state of the roof of the building, where this model is kept, it may be expected that every trace of so magnificent an undertaking will soon be annihilated. Symptoms of decay already appear; and the architect told us it might soon be expected to fall. When he delivered his report of the dangerous condition of the edifice, the Russians shrugged their shoulders, and said, "Fall in! And what if it does ?"

The plan was, to unite the whole Kremlin, having a circumference of two miles, into one magnificent palace. Its triangular form, and the number of churches it contains, offered

(1) According to the Voyage de Deux Français, the model was constructed by a German joiner of the name of Andrew Wetman, after a design by the architect Bajanof, pupil of Vailly. See tome III. p. 297.

VII.

some difficulties; but the model was rendered CHAP. complete. Its fronts are ornamented with ranges of beautiful pillars, according to different orders of architecture. Every part of it was finished in the most beautiful manner, even to the fresco painting on the ceilings of the rooms, and the colouring of the various marble columns intended to decorate the interior. It incloses a theatre, and magnificent apartments. Had the work been completed, it would have surpassed the Temple of Solomon, the Propylæum of Amasis, the Villa of Adrian, or the Forum of Trajan. Our friend Camporesi spoke of it in terms of equal praise; but at the same time confessed, that Guarenghi, his countryman, an architect well known for his works in Petersburg, entertained different sentiments. Guarenghi allowed it to be grand, as it must necessarily be, from the magnitude of the design; but thought it too much ornamented, and too heavy in many of its parts.

Appear

Kremlin.

The architecture exhibited in different parts General of the Kremlin, in its palaces and churches, is ance of the unlike any thing seen in Europe. It is difficult to say from what country it has been principally derived. The architects were generally Italians'; but the style is Tartarian, Indian, Chinese, and Gothic-here a pagoda, there an arcaae !

(2) Solarius of Milan was principally employed.

VII.

CHAP. in some parts richness, and even elegance: in others, barbarism and decay. Taken altogether, it is a mixed scene of magnificence and ruin : old buildings repaired, and modern structures not completed; half-open vaults, and mouldering walls, and empty caves, amidst white-washed brick buildings, and towers, and churches, with glittering, gilded, or painted domes. In the midst of these crowded structures, some devotees are daily seen entering a little mean sanctuary, more like a stable than a church. This, they tell you, is the first place of Christian worship erected in Moscow. It was originally constructed of the trunks of trees, felled upon the spot, at the foundation of the city; but now it consists of brick-work which has been put together in imitation of the original wooden church. Its antiquity cannot be great. According to accounts published in our own country', the whole city of Moscow was burned by the Tahtars of the Crimea, on the 24th of May 1571; and the old wooden church was probably then destroyed. We entered this building during the celebration of divine service: a priest, with true Stentorian lungs, was reading from a selection of the Gospels to the people. There is nothing within the structure worth notice.

(1) Letter of Richard Uscombe to Henry Lane.

p. 402.

Hakluyt, vol. I.

VII.

The view of Moscow, from a terrace in the CHAP. Kremlin, near the spot where the artillery is preserved, would afford a fine subject for a Panorama. The number of magnificent buildings, the domes, the towers, and spires, filling all the prospect, make it, perhaps, one of the most extraordinary sights in Europe. All the wretched hovels, and miserable wooden buildings, which appear in passing through the streets, are lost in the vast assemblage of magnificent edifices among these, the Foundling Hospital is particularly conspicuous. Below the walls of the Kremlin, the Moscva, already become a river of importance, is seen flowing towards the Volga. The new promenade forming on its banks, immediately beneath the fortress, is a superb work, and promises to rival the famous quay at Petersburg: it is paved with large flags; and is continued from the Stone Bridge, to another, which is called the Moscva Bridge; being fenced with a light but strong iron palisade, and stone pillars, executed in a very good taste. A flight of stairs leads from this walk to the river, where the ceremony of the Benediction of the Water takes place at an earlier season of the year. Another flight of wooden steps leads through the walls of the Kremlin to an area within the fortress.