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FROM PETERSBURG TO MOSCOW. Departure from Petersburg — Manner of Travelling
Palace of Tsarskoselo — Gardens --Anecdote of Billings's Expedition to the North-west Coast of America
- Ledyard— Barbarous Decoration of the Apartments -Arrival at Novogorod—Cathedral-Antient Greek Paintings -Manner of imitating them in Russia Superstitions of the Greek Church—Virgin with Three
Hands-Story of her Origin-Russian Bogh. WE
e left Petersburg on the morning of the CHAP, third of April, and arrived with great expedi- 5 tion at TSARSKOSELO. Our carriage had been
Departure placed ụpon a traineau or sledge; and another from Pe
CHAP. sledge, following us, conveyed the wheels. It
is proper to describe our mode of travelling, Manner of that others may derive advantage from it. If Travelling
the journey be confined to countries only where
(1) Guide des Voyageurs en Europe, tom. ii. planche 1.
the carriage lets down upon the seat; it contains CHAP. leathern cushions, and a pillow covered with thin leather. The carriage has, besides, an imperial, a well, a sword-case which may be converted into a small library, and, instead of a window behind, a large lamp, so constructed as to throw a strong light without dazzling the eyes of those within. Thus provided, a person may travel night and day, fearless of want, of accommodation, or houses of repose. His carriage is his home, which accompanies him everywhere; and if he choose to halt, or accidents oblige him to stop in the midst of a forest or a desert, he may sleep, eat, drink, read, write, or amuse himself with any portable musical instrument, careless of the frosts of the North, or the dews, the mosquitoes, and vermin of the South. Over snowy regions, he places his house upon a sledge, and, when the snow melts, upon its wheels; being always careful, where wheels are used for long journeys through hot countries, to soak them in water whenever he stops for the night.
Setting out from Petersburg for the South of Russia, the traveller bids adieu to all thoughts of inns, or even houses with the common necessaries of bread and water. He will not even find clean straw, if he should speculate upon
CHAP. the chance of a bed. Every thing he may want
must therefore be taken with him. A pewter
The palace of Tsarskoselo is twenty-two versts CHAP. from Petersburg, and the only object worth notice between that city and Novogorod. It is Tsarskobuilt of brick, plastered over. Before the edifice is a large court, surrounded by low buildings for the kitchens and other out-houses. The front of the palace occupies an extent of near eight hundred feet; and it is entirely covered, in a most barbarous taste, with columns, and pilasters, and cariatides, stuck between the windows. All of these, in the true style of Dutch gingerbread, are gilded. The whole of the building is a compound of what an architect ought to avoid, rather than to imitate. Yet so much money has been spent upon it, and particularly upon the interior, that it cannot be passed without notice. It was built by the Empress ELIZABETH; and was much the residence of CATHERINE, in the latter part of her life, when her favourites, no longer the objects of a licentious passion, were chosen more as adopted children than as lovers.
In the gardens of this palace, persons, who Gardens, wished to gain an audience of the Empress, were accustomed to place themselves when she descended for her daily walk. A complaint in her legs caused her to introduce the very expensive alteration of converting the staircase of