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FROM PETERSBURG TO MOSCOW. Departure from Petersburg Manner of Travelling

Palace of Tsarskoselo Gardens --Anecdote of Billings's Expedition to the North-west Coast of America

- Ledyard— Barbarous Decoration of the Apartments -Arrival at NovogorodCathedral-Antient Greek Paintings -Manner of imitating them in Russia Superstitions of the Greek ChurchVirgin with Three

Hands-Story of her Origin-Russian Bogh. WE

e left Petersburg on the morning of the CHAP, third of April, and arrived with great expedi- 5 tion at TSARSKOSELO. Our carriage had been

Departure placed ụpon a traineau or sledge; and another from Pe

tersburg

II.

1800.

II.

CHAP. sledge, following us, conveyed the wheels. It

is proper to describe our mode of travelling, Manner of that others may derive advantage from it. If Travelling

the journey be confined to countries only where
sledges are used, the common method adopted
by the inhabitants is always the best; but if a
passage be desired with ease and expedition
from one climate to another, some contrivance
should secure the traveller from the rigours of
the seasons, without impeding his progress by
superfluous burthen. For this purpose, the
kind of carriage called a German bâtarde is most
convenient. A delineation of one of these is
given in the work of ReicHARD', who also men-
tions the expense of building it in Vienna,
where those carriages are made for one-fourth
of the 'money required by the London coach-
makers; and they answer every purpose of
travelling, full as well as vehicles made in
England. The bâtarde is nothing more than an
English chariot with a dormeuse, advancing in
front, and made sufficiently high to furnish a
commodious seat for two persons on the out-
side, upon the springs. We caused the driver
to sit upon the trunk in front; but it would be
better to provide for him a little chair raised for
that purpose. The door of the dormeuse within

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(1) Guide des Voyageurs en Europe, tom. ii. planche 1.

II,

the carriage lets down upon the seat; it contains CHAP. leathern cushions, and a pillow covered with thin leather. The carriage has, besides, an imperial, a well, a sword-case which may be converted into a small library, and, instead of a window behind, a large lamp, so constructed as to throw a strong light without dazzling the eyes of those within. Thus provided, a person may travel night and day, fearless of want, of accommodation, or houses of repose. His carriage is his home, which accompanies him everywhere; and if he choose to halt, or accidents oblige him to stop in the midst of a forest or a desert, he may sleep, eat, drink, read, write, or amuse himself with any portable musical instrument, careless of the frosts of the North, or the dews, the mosquitoes, and vermin of the South. Over snowy regions, he places his house upon a sledge, and, when the snow melts, upon its wheels; being always careful, where wheels are used for long journeys through hot countries, to soak them in water whenever he stops for the night.

Setting out from Petersburg for the South of Russia, the traveller bids adieu to all thoughts of inns, or even houses with the common necessaries of bread and water. He will not even find clean straw, if he should speculate upon

VOL. I.

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II.

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CHAP. the chance of a bed. Every thing he may want

must therefore be taken with him. A pewter
tea-pot will prove of more importance than a
chest of plate; and more so than one of silver,
because it will not be stolen, and may be kept
equally clean and entire. To this he will add,
a kettle; a saucepan, the top of which may be
used for a dish; tea, sugar, and a large cheese,
with several loaves of bread made into rusks,
and as much fresh bread as he thinks will keep
till he has a chance of procuring more. Then,
while the frost continues, he may carry frozen
food, such as game or fish, which, being con-
gealed, and as hard as flint, may jolt about among
his kettles in the well of the carriage without any
chance of injury. Wine may be used in a cold
country; but never in a hot, or even in a tem-
perate climate, while upon the road. In hot
countries, if a cask of good vinegar can be pro-
cured, the traveller will often bless the means
by which it was obtained. When, with a
parched tongue, a dry and feverish skin, he
has to assuage his burning thirst with the bad
or good water brought to him, the addition of
a little vinegar will make the draught delicious.
Care must be taken not to use it to excess; for
it is sometimes so tempting a remedy against
somnolency, that it is hardly possible to resist
using the vinegar without any mixture of water.

II.

Palace of

selo.

The palace of Tsarskoselo is twenty-two versts CHAP. from Petersburg, and the only object worth notice between that city and Novogorod. It is Tsarskobuilt of brick, plastered over. Before the edifice is a large court, surrounded by low buildings for the kitchens and other out-houses. The front of the palace occupies an extent of near eight hundred feet; and it is entirely covered, in a most barbarous taste, with columns, and pilasters, and cariatides, stuck between the windows. All of these, in the true style of Dutch gingerbread, are gilded. The whole of the building is a compound of what an architect ought to avoid, rather than to imitate. Yet so much money has been spent upon it, and particularly upon the interior, that it cannot be passed without notice. It was built by the Empress ELIZABETH; and was much the residence of CATHERINE, in the latter part of her life, when her favourites, no longer the objects of a licentious passion, were chosen more as adopted children than as lovers.

In the gardens of this palace, persons, who Gardens, wished to gain an audience of the Empress, were accustomed to place themselves when she descended for her daily walk. A complaint in her legs caused her to introduce the very expensive alteration of converting the staircase of

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